Cartoon Network

30 June 2012

RE: [DIY] Re: Circuit breaker boxes

 

At least where I have lived, CH breakers are very hard to find

-----Original Message-----
From: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of wired
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2012 5:23 PM
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DIY] Re: Circuit breaker boxes

Everyone is stuck on Square D. I think Cutler Hammer type CH is superior.
Copper bus bars AND the breakers have a spring clip on the prongs where they
attach to the bus bar fingers. Square D QO does not.
Do NOT get Cutler hammer type BR. That is an old design merely bough out by
Cutler Hammer, not the original.

--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, Ron Johnson <l0c0l0b0@...> wrote:
>
>
> We recently bought a house that's a little on the old side. I am
rerunning wires because it looks so chaotic, I really don't know how the
place didn't burn down. I would love to go into the problems I've come
across but I'm sure most of you have already been there.
>
> This is a duplex that the previous owner was in the process of turning
into a single family unit. As a result, I need to install a new circuit
breaker box for each side. I went to Lowe's and they have three different
styles: one by Murray, and two from Square D - the red and the blue. I've
priced both the boxes and the circuit breakers and there is a big difference
there.
>
> So my question is: Is there a major difference among these boxes? Is one
really better than the others? I assume the most expensive would be the
best, but that's not always the case. Anyone out there have opinions? I
would appreciate it. Thanks.
>

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RE: [DIY] 4X4 as frame?

 

Since you are setting it on blocks, use mobile home anchors to hold it to the ground, depending on how loaded it will be, the last shed that I built was 1 and ½ story 16 x10, and it had all the yard equipment including the tractor in it, probably about 3 tons, never bothered to anchor that one, it was set on piers made with concrete in sono tubes

ck

 

From: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ron Johnson
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2012 7:04 AM
To: doit_yourself@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DIY] 4X4 as frame?

 




If the question is whether to use 4x4s or 4x6s, it would depend on how large your shed will be.  Also remember that you can't just build it like a box, it must be anchored.  You have to worry about strong winds blowing your shed down the street.
 


To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
From: melissasparrots@yahoo.com
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2012 03:36:54 +0000
Subject: [DIY] 4X4 as frame?

 

Is there any problem with making a frame for an 8ft square shed out of 4X4X8s? It would give me exactly the measurements I want. I would use 2X4s as the joists in the middle. What length and width of screw would one use to nail them together without splitting?

I thought about screwing together two 2X6s but I'd still be .5 inch short. I don't have a lot of carpentry skills to work with here and would rather not have to do a bunch of extra cutting if I can get what I need from 4X4s. The shed will be on blocks if that makes any difference.
Thanks,
Melissa




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RE: [DIY] 4X4 as frame?

 

Are you talking about making the floor , the joists out of 2x4 and the rim
or band boards out of 4x4s? I am sure it can be done, however I would not
want to walk on it or try to load anything on it, I would use 2x8's spaced
16 inches on center, with the same size Rim joists, then use 3/4 ( actually
I think it is 23/32) inch T&G exterior ply for the decking. You then set
your walls.
Ck

-----Original Message-----
From: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of melissasparrots
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2012 10:37 PM
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DIY] 4X4 as frame?

Is there any problem with making a frame for an 8ft square shed out of
4X4X8s? It would give me exactly the measurements I want. I would use 2X4s
as the joists in the middle. What length and width of screw would one use
to nail them together without splitting?

I thought about screwing together two 2X6s but I'd still be .5 inch short.
I don't have a lot of carpentry skills to work with here and would rather
not have to do a bunch of extra cutting if I can get what I need from 4X4s.
The shed will be on blocks if that makes any difference.
Thanks,
Melissa

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Re: [DIY] Circuit breaker boxes

 

There are NO "new regs" that require a DW and disp on separate circuits, nor is a refer required on it's own circuit (although that is typically done).

If you know of something, it is definitely a local amendment, and NOT in the NEC.

--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, OOWONBS@... wrote:

> New regs are allowing and even demanding MORE breaker
> spaces. Dishwasher, garbage disposal, no longer on 1 breaker,
> Fridge-same thing.

>
> BillSF9c
>

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Re: [DIY] 4X4 as frame?

 

Mellisa, 
I'm trying to understand what part of the structure you call the frame.

And how 4x4's alter the measurement. Which measurement?
You cut them as long as you wish...
If these are for the floor supports, 4" tall is not adequate.

You use 2x6's or 2x8's, or etc. 2x4's as joists are inadequate.
In fact, used to be 2x6 as floors and 2x4 as roof (with limited
spans) but now it's 2x8 floor and 2x6 roof. BUT for a shed,
with a small span, you can usually get away with it.

What floor dimensions do you desire?
Is the size you want an internal one or exterior?
If your code says 10'x12', they mean exterior, and the 1/2 OSB
on the outside will add 1" and they may count that.

BillSF9c ... vacation coming. Happy 4th.
Sorry many of your rights we fought for are being removed.
Ben Franklin said, "Here's your republic. Good luck keeping it."

Posted by: "melissasparrots" melissasparrots@yahoo.com >Is there any problem with making a frame for an 8ft square shed out of 4X4X8s? It would give me exactly the measurements I want. I would use 2X4s as the joists in the middle. What length and width of screw would one use to nail them together without splitting? >I thought about screwing together two 2X6s but I'd still be .5 inch short. I don't have a lot of carpentry skills to work with here and would rather not have to do a bunch of extra cutting if I can get what I need from 4X4s. The shed will be on blocks if that makes any difference. Thanks, Melissa

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[DIY] vinyl fence

 

Anyone have any experience installing a vinyl fence? I'm not talking about
a big privacy fence, only a 2-rail ranch type.

A tidbit of background - I have a next door neighbor who insists that he
owns half my driveway, even *after* I had a survey done to prove otherwise.
He's "deranged" enough that a week ago, he pulled up the stakes I had put in
on the property line by the survey company. Yes, that's illegal. I called
the sheriff's department. Long story short, the neighbor was cited for
simple trespassing and violating Education Law 7209 (9)(9). Everyone, and I
do mean everyone, has suggested putting up a fence. (Duh) I chose the
2-rail vinyl ranch type because (a)I'm not being vindictive, I just want a
clear boundary and to keep him off my property, which is now posted with No
Trespassing signs, (b)I wanted something that will look nice and with no
maintenance, and (c)something easy to mow under and snowblow through/over.

So...back to the fence, anyone have experience and/or advice?

Sandaidh
sandaidh@localnet.com

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Re: [DIY] Circuit breaker boxes

 

Aluminum is NOT safe. Spend the money on copper and sleep well at night.
They outlawed it many years ago in many states. Too many fires.

They sell cigaretts , and they know that isn't great for you.

--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "petey_racer" <petey_racer@...> wrote:
>
> Then you are obviously not a professional in the field and are not very familiar with this stuff.
> Aluminum is FINE in most settings, especially residential.
> AL is NOT "unsafe". If it were it would not be allowed to be sold, no?
> IMO your "set in stone rule" is simply dramatics based on hearsay and rumor as opposed to facts. Or do you have facts to support your claims??
>
> --- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, Ray Kornele <krazykyngekorny@> wrote:
> >
> > I have a rule set in stone. ALWAYS use copper. Aluminum is IMHO unsafe. It
> > Heats, even at rated load, and below.
> > KrazyKyngeKorny (Krazy, not stupid)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Thu, Jun 28, 2012 at 11:39 AM, Mike Shoaf <mike.shoaf@> wrote:
> >
> > > **
> > >
> > >
> > > Square D is often more expensive. The less expensive boxes usually have an
> > > aluminum buss- this is what the breakers connect to. As long as the
> > > integrity of the box is good- no moisture is getting into it- and you are
> > > not overloading the breakers, this may work. The higher priced boxes
> > > probably have a copper buss, which is capable of carrying more current for
> > > the same thickness of metal, shich SHOULD mean a safer installation. Square
> > > D also offers two types of breakers, Homeline and QO. QO is made to a
> > > higher standard than the Homeline, which is designed to be "competitive"
> > > with the other brands. The breakers are not interchangeable.
> > >
> > >
> >
>

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Re: [DIY] Circuit breaker boxes

 

A good rule of thumb is to pick something JUST above mid-range.
Square D has that, with a somewhat preferred copper buss.
They have the Home-Something that is an aluminum buss.
It works. The copper is a tad more. Not gobs more. Meet
a guy like me that you are selling to and I'll see SqD & I'll like it.
I see the Home-? and I won't recognize it as something I like,
even if i forgot that it has an aluminum buss.

When I built my puter, with help, the 1st time, I asked about
which operating system (OS) to choose. My guru said there
are far better ones, but if you want ready available support,
get Windows. SqD selection is like that. Only better - LOL!
Diesel cars or electric may be better than gas. But several
years ago they came with problems of local support. SqD
is just out there. Car tires... Sears. Wherever I go, if there's
a problem, I have support. I can get a mate. SqD - same.

New regs are allowing and even demanding MORE breaker
spaces. Dishwasher, garbage disposal, no longer on 1 breaker,
Fridge-same thing. Check this so if you EVER re-wire you
can meet code. Add several for expansion - say, solar power.
40 used to be a LOT. I think it may be 72 now. Guys?

BillSF9c

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Re: [DIY] Sander

 

Well, LOL... Not a belt sander, usually.
But with the grain, and inexpensive furniture, sometimes.
Palm sanders are good. All of mine, oscillated.
Rotary are usually the worst.
Random Orbitals are oscillating and the best for certain surfaces,
but DO cross the grain somewhat, but so do palm types usually.
Some inexpensive palm types, vibrate, and are slow, and can
be good.
Ever hear of sanding blocks? Wood or rubber, hand powered.
Very "green!" LOL! Often faster than a cheap power sander.

I remember a guy who had a very fine piece professionally done.
Had it appraised. $16,000. $90,000, had he NOT had it refinished.

BillSF9c

 Posted by: "Tori" fertilegrnd@yahoo.com fertilegrnd     Whats the best sander for me to use to refinish wood furniture.
Oscillating or palm?

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RE: [DIY] Bath Tub Clogged FIXED

 

Congradulations!  At least it wasn't too expesive or difficult.  Sometimes the easiest, simplist way is the best.
 

To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
From: frankruggiero@me.com
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2012 17:58:48 +0000
Subject: Re: [DIY] Bath Tub Clogged FIXED

Thanks to everyone for their advice.

My wife really wanted to get it done today, so I told her to get the Zip It from Walmart as Subprong and Cindi suggested.
She said it worked perfectly.

I guess it was best to try the easiest thing first and work my way up. But thank you all for helping me out.

Frank

On Jun 29, 2012, at 01:44 PM, subprong <subprong@gmail.com> wrote:

 
I can confirm this process.  It has worked for me on a sink before.  Despite me not being a huge believer in some of the home remedies, I saw this suggestion on the net and tried it.  I think I had to go through the process of baking soda/vinegar/boiling water/plunging at least 3 times but surprisingly it worked...at least for whatever the issue was on my sink.


On Fri, Jun 29, 2012 at 5:49 AM, Jan Flood <jan.flood2@att.net> wrote:
 
Sometimes baking soda &  vinegar, followed with boiling water after it's set awhile will work.  Pour some baking soda down the drain, add white vinegar and let it set for half hour or so then pour boiling water down the drain.  You might follow with a plunger but it works surprisingly well if it's not too bad.





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Re: [DIY] Bath Tub Clogged FIXED

 

Glad it worked, thanks for telling us. I, too, struggled with the idea of taking out the plug, etc. which was attached or something to the bottom, it is an old tub. Yes, that zip thing works wonder.

From: Frank Ruggiero <frankruggiero@me.com>
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2012 1:58 PM
Subject: Re: [DIY] Bath Tub Clogged FIXED

Thanks to everyone for their advice.

My wife really wanted to get it done today, so I told her to get the Zip It from Walmart as Subprong and Cindi suggested.
She said it worked perfectly.

I guess it was best to try the easiest thing first and work my way up. But thank you all for helping me out.

Frank

On Jun 29, 2012, at 01:44 PM, subprong <subprong@gmail.com> wrote:

 
I can confirm this process.  It has worked for me on a sink before.  Despite me not being a huge believer in some of the home remedies, I saw this suggestion on the net and tried it.  I think I had to go through the process of baking soda/vinegar/boiling water/plunging at least 3 times but surprisingly it worked...at least for whatever the issue was on my sink.

On Fri, Jun 29, 2012 at 5:49 AM, Jan Flood <jan.flood2@att.net> wrote:
 
Sometimes baking soda &  vinegar, followed with boiling water after it's set awhile will work.  Pour some baking soda down the drain, add white vinegar and let it set for half hour or so then pour boiling water down the drain.  You might follow with a plunger but it works surprisingly well if it's not too bad.






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Re: [DIY] Bath Tub Clogged FIXED

Thanks to everyone for their advice.

My wife really wanted to get it done today, so I told her to get the Zip It from Walmart as Subprong and Cindi suggested.
She said it worked perfectly.

I guess it was best to try the easiest thing first and work my way up. But thank you all for helping me out.

Frank

On Jun 29, 2012, at 01:44 PM, subprong <subprong@gmail.com> wrote:

 

I can confirm this process.  It has worked for me on a sink before.  Despite me not being a huge believer in some of the home remedies, I saw this suggestion on the net and tried it.  I think I had to go through the process of baking soda/vinegar/boiling water/plunging at least 3 times but surprisingly it worked...at least for whatever the issue was on my sink.

On Fri, Jun 29, 2012 at 5:49 AM, Jan Flood <jan.flood2@att.net> wrote:
 

Sometimes baking soda &  vinegar, followed with boiling water after it's set awhile will work.  Pour some baking soda down the drain, add white vinegar and let it set for half hour or so then pour boiling water down the drain.  You might follow with a plunger but it works surprisingly well if it's not too bad.





Re: [DIY] Bath Tub Clogged

 

I can confirm this process.  It has worked for me on a sink before.  Despite me not being a huge believer in some of the home remedies, I saw this suggestion on the net and tried it.  I think I had to go through the process of baking soda/vinegar/boiling water/plunging at least 3 times but surprisingly it worked...at least for whatever the issue was on my sink.

On Fri, Jun 29, 2012 at 5:49 AM, Jan Flood <jan.flood2@att.net> wrote:
 

Sometimes baking soda &  vinegar, followed with boiling water after it's set awhile will work.  Pour some baking soda down the drain, add white vinegar and let it set for half hour or so then pour boiling water down the drain.  You might follow with a plunger but it works surprisingly well if it's not too bad.





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29 June 2012

Re: [DIY] 4X4 as frame?

 

Another thing is to remember your geometry. You must have triangles in the framing to prevent it from racking. This is often done with diagonal corner braces. Another way is to put 1 full sheet of plywood on all corners.

--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, Ron Johnson <l0c0l0b0@...> wrote:
>
>
> If the question is whether to use 4x4s or 4x6s, it would depend on how large your shed will be. Also remember that you can't just build it like a box, it must be anchored. You have to worry about strong winds blowing your shed down the street.
>
>
>
>
> To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
> From: melissasparrots@...
> Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2012 03:36:54 +0000
> Subject: [DIY] 4X4 as frame?
>
>
>
>
>
> Is there any problem with making a frame for an 8ft square shed out of 4X4X8s? It would give me exactly the measurements I want. I would use 2X4s as the joists in the middle. What length and width of screw would one use to nail them together without splitting?
>
> I thought about screwing together two 2X6s but I'd still be .5 inch short. I don't have a lot of carpentry skills to work with here and would rather not have to do a bunch of extra cutting if I can get what I need from 4X4s. The shed will be on blocks if that makes any difference.
> Thanks,
> Melissa
>

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Re: [DIY] Bath Tub Clogged

 

It worked for me. And I keep around, just in case.

From: Ron Johnson <l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com>
To: doit_yourself@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2012 7:55 AM
Subject: RE: [DIY] Bath Tub Clogged

 
That's a good thing for hair (which collects other stuff) but usually on the type of drain he has, the hair is at the drain where it can be pulled up with needle-nosed pliers.  Still, I guess you could always give it a shot - maybe the hair is stuck on a burr down the line.  For less than five bucks, it couldn't hurt to try.
 
 
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
From: subprong@gmail.com
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2012 23:55:07 -0600
Subject: Re: [DIY] Bath Tub Clogged

 
Try this.... (zip it)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mkk0-cReLsM 

The video is no exaggeration.  I got this thing awhile back and used it...and yes I pulled out a smelly gelatinous hair monster from heck just like they did.  Cleared the drain right up.

I have a cross brace in my drain that looks like yours.  It takes a little back-and-forth jiggling and wiggling to pull it back out (because the back of the teeth on the zip-it catch the edges in whichever small hole you put it in).  It usually takes a couple of tries as I usually have to pick the correct quadrant of the brace to insert it to get it to go down the farthest.  Easily worth it for the results.  The product is less than 5 bucks I believe.

I'm not sure that I've ever had a manual snake do any good other than perhaps to push a clog further back.  This little piece of plastic actually pulls the clog out.

On Thu, Jun 28, 2012 at 6:46 PM, Frank Ruggiero <frankruggiero@me.com> wrote:
 
Hi Experts.

Does anyone have some advice? I hope this is common.

I have a bath tub that is becoming clogged up. I tried to run a snake down it, but as you can see, the snake does not fit because of this cross section. Take a look.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/e6dinb2h3l80law/Bath%20Tub.jpg

What would you recommend? Is there some safe chemical that wont ruin my pipe system? This bathtub is on the top level of the house. I can not access it from below.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Frank





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