Cartoon Network

30 May 2013

[DIY] Re: car overheating

 


My husband is a mechanic and i read him your post he says that you need to burb your cooling system. he says there is a plug on top of your engine. With a cold engine never started take your plug out and then radiator cap loose and fill your resevoir tank to full level make sure your are getting straight coolant out of where plug should be then make sure to put your plug back and tighten readiator cap make sure resevoir is filled to max cold.

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29 May 2013

Re: [DIY] toxicity of Behr concrete stain and sealer??

 

When it says to use plenty of ventilation, and that if you have difficulty breathing to go outside, it's plain that it's quite toxic.

I called Behr, and their guy actually told me that their concrete stain/sealer products stink (not his word) for two weeks after they dry -- which means that in reality, most likely it's more like two months... That is plenty enough to make me feel very ill, not to mention just the unpleasantness, not to mention the physical damage done to other people who use it, who don't understand that they're just adding to their bodies' already over-loaded toxic burden...

So if this floor guy is not willing to try something different, not willing to try the stuff that won't slowly kill him, then I'll just have to find someone who is...

Joy

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Re: [DIY] toxicity of Behr concrete stain and sealer??

 

Joy, I don't have any personal experience with it, but we always buy low VOC products.  Go to behr.com and search under interior products to find the specific product he wants to use.  Then click on the Safety and MSDS tab -  you will get a complete list of all components in the product as well as safety hazards.  You can read a MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for all their products and, compare them with the MSDS of other products if you like.


On May 28, 2013, at 4:26 PM, Joy Rex <jomarex@earthlink.net> wrote:

Any sensitive people have experience with this Behr stuff? There are
places locally where we could get specifically non-toxic stuff. Maybe
I should just go ahead and insist on that.

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[DIY] toxicity of Behr concrete stain and sealer??

 

I am very chemically-sensitive. Have to get half of the floors in my
house stained / sealed in order to sell the house. The guy wants to
use Behr products from Home Depot. I know I could tell by one sniff
whether it will make me sick or not, but that one whiff just might
make me really sick...

I made the mistake of painting the trim in my bathroom with some old
high-VOC paint; felt really bad for several days, and the stink of the
paint lasted for many more days. It's getting too hot to leave the
window open all day and night, too...

Any sensitive people have experience with this Behr stuff? There are
places locally where we could get specifically non-toxic stuff. Maybe
I should just go ahead and insist on that.

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28 May 2013

[DIY] Re: Total Shop - Shopsmith knock-off

 

Thanks. I found some of the sites you were talking about. We passed on the Total Shop.

--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Davis" <bob@...> wrote:
>
> There are all kinds of notes and quotes about total shop on the internet, if
> you just use google search for "total shop". The general trend of message I
> read were "out of business 20-25 years, lower quality than shopsmith, some
> parts fit, mostly parts unavailable". I would definitely pass on buying
> one, at any price.
>
>
>
> From: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of vsnbs5
> Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 8:37 PM
> To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DIY] Total Shop - Shopsmith knock-off
>
>
>
>
>
> Anybody here know anything about the Total Shop? There's one on Craigslist
> for sale that my husband is thinking about getting but I can't find anything
> good about it. He wants it mainly to use as a lathe, but if we can't get
> parts for it, what's the point? The guy on Craigslist is asking $275 for it
> and says Shopsmith parts are interchangable. Need some input if you have
> any. Thanks.
>

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Re: [DIY] Tile Setting Mat -- re: suggestions to level glass tile beside of ceremic tile

 

Rhonda as I said, I've not used this myself yet, so took the time to read through all the reviews of this and also similar products.  There are several brands available and since we'll purchase our tile at Lowes, I'll probably purchase the Bondera brand they sell.  It appears to be a little different and has separate products for wall or countertop application.  It also has smaller rolls which I didn't see with the Simple Mat.  The one thing I saw on both websites was you need to follow the instructions precisely. I'd definitely talk to a salesperson or contact the company for advice about your particular problem before I spent the money.  Good Luck!!



On May 27, 2013, at 4:49 PM, Rhonda Tomazon <rtomazon@yahoo.com> wrote:

thanks so much for answering me. The extra thin set is not an option as it seeps into the grout lines of the glass tiles the more of it i use but may be this mat thing may work gonna try any way Thanks again



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Re: [DIY] Tile Setting Mat -- re: suggestions to level glass tile beside of ceremic tile

thanks so much for answering me. The extra thin set is not an option as it seeps into the grout lines of the glass tiles the more of it i use but may be this mat thing may work gonna try any way Thanks again


From: Jan Flood <jan.flood2@att.net>
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 2:52 PM
Subject: [DIY] Tile Setting Mat -- re: suggestions to level glass tile beside of ceremic tile

Here you go.  The video shows how easy it is to use.  This is on the Home Depot web site.

Custom Building Products SimpleMat Tile Setting Mat

Model # SM10R1

Internet # 202828989

Store SKU # 724284

$19.97 /EA-Each


On May 27, 













[DIY] Tile Setting Mat -- re: suggestions to level glass tile beside of ceremic tile

Here you go.  The video shows how easy it is to use.  This is on the Home Depot web site.

Custom Building Products SimpleMat Tile Setting Mat

Model # SM10R1

Internet # 202828989

Store SKU # 724284

$19.97 /EA-Each


On May 27, 











Re: [DIY] suggestions to level glass tile beside of ceremic tile

 

It's been a long time since I laid any tile - the one time our surface wasn't quite even I just added extra mortar where needed then used a long level to make sure they were all level across the top.  Had to jockey a few corners I think, but the spacers make it easy to keep them in line.  We've also used Liquid Nails to set tile on a small counter, very easy to use.  This was on a flat surface.  Are you adding some decorative tile or retiling an area using glass and ceramic tile?  There is also a product you can buy, haven't used it myself but seen it online -- it's adhesive/foam squares….Don't remember exactly how it came but you didn't have to use any mortar - just stick this up and stick the tile to it, then grout.  They showed it being used on the backsplash and it stuck in my mind since that's something I still need to do.  Remove the existing tile and redo it.  You might google a few terms and see what you can find.

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27 May 2013

[DIY] Re: suggestions to level glass tile beside of ceremic tile

 

I did that; just put a little extra thinset under the glass tiles. It's been awhile, but I may have let the extra layer dry first (??)...

I also used regular thinset to level the floor in that small bathroom. I did let that dry completely before setting the tile. Couldn't find any reason online not to use thinset for leveling, and I worried about things, but several years later, it's all fine. -- I could certainly have just re-stuck the tiles down, or replaced any cracked ones, since I had extra tiles.

--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "RhondaT" <rtomazon@...> wrote:
>
> i am redoing a bath and i have glass tile that is 1/4 thinner than the ceramic tile how do i make them level Any suggestions would be helpful thanks
>

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Re: [DIY] Re: Removing dried glue from old chair

 

Thanks David, I'm going to start with some hot water and a heat gun, work slow and careful, and see what happens.    I doubt it's a valuable antique, it's handmade so no markings, but I don't want to make matters worse.  I don't have the experience to accurately date it, it was definitely all made from the same wood with hide glue in the joints and shellac finish.  It's a small chair so most likely made for a woman, the carving is pretty but not elaborate, I'm sure some man found this wood and worked hours turning it into a chair to surprise his wife :)


On May 27, 2013, at 6:04 AM, "hapennyherald" <hapennyherald@yahoo.com> wrote:

 

The yellow wood glue is a modified version of Elmers white glue. Vinegar would probably work, but then your chair leg would be saturated with vinegar and the acid can mess up drying on some glues. Heat will soften the glue. a heat gun might work but might char the wood. A possibility might be an oven on about 200 250 and let it warm over an hour or so. Wood shouldn't start to char until 300 350. Actually in industry they coat joints with glue which dries and are later soften to bond the pieces with microwaves. I'd do a few experiments before risking the leg.

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