Do it Yourself: August 2018

11 August 2018

[DIY] Re: Support for saw

a wonderful tool for the final cuts of this type (and many others) is the oscillating saw/ multitool, $10-$20 cheap at HF, and blades about $6/ea

__._,_.___

Posted by: Terry Hennessy <thenne1713@aol.com>

Reply via web post

•

Reply to sender

•

Reply to group

•

Start a New Topic

•

Messages in this topic (4)

Have you tried the highest rated email app?

With 4.5 stars in iTunes, the Yahoo Mail app is the highest rated email app on the market. What are you waiting for? Now you can access all your inboxes (Gmail, Outlook, AOL and more) in one place. Never delete an email again with 1000GB of free cloud storage.

Please send decorating questions to Interior Motives List - to subscribe send an email to: Interior_Motives-subscribe@yahoogroups.com

Visit Your Group

• Privacy • Unsubscribe • Terms of Use

__,_._,___

[DIY] Shower leak/repair question

Thanks guys, I must not have been very clear. Everything is between interior walls, and all controls were replaced last fall.

The leak was coming between the tile floor and the back wall in the shower. It's 25 yr old, the grout along the wall was old and I think water was just dripping down and spreading before being absorbed by the concrete. I removed all the old sealant and redid it with silicone sealant, and there has been no more leaking. There is no visible damage to the drywall or the sub-floor, which is over concrete slab. It's a very large shower, 56" square with cultured marble walls/tiled floor. I really don't want the expense of tearing out the entire shower, if not necessary. However, I do know the floor was not sloped properly so I've been checking the internet to see if it's possible to just redo the tile floor. Found three options, Dig the tile up, prepare it so it all drains to the center, then retile — or, knock down any high spots and/or fill in and retile over the original tile…using a drain extension. A third option I found is Acrylic? shower pans, made to size, you can tile over and guaranteed not to leak. I assume you would have to remove all the tile first and prepare the base. Does it just fit up against the wall? We will have to hire it done, but would like to have some input from knowledgable people who aren't looking for a job :)

Jan Flood
oakridgefarm@gmail.com

__._,_.___

Posted by: "oakridgefarm@gmail.com" <oakridgefarm@gmail.com>

Reply via web post

•

Reply to sender

•

Reply to group

•

Start a New Topic

•

Messages in this topic (4)

Have you tried the highest rated email app?

Please send decorating questions to Interior Motives List - to subscribe send an email to: Interior_Motives-subscribe@yahoogroups.com

Visit Your Group

• Privacy • Unsubscribe • Terms of Use

__,_._,___

Pls Sir/Ma, My Father need your help

Attn Sir/Ma,To whom It may Concern

My Dear Brother and Sister

My name is Steve Langota On January 26th this year, my 68-year-old father was diagnosed as having serious congenital heart diseases (single ventricle, transposition of great arteries and pulmonary hypertension) in Indian. The diagnosing doctors told us that my Father's diseases were highly rare, complex and dangerous.

I am studying in Cambodia and trying to seek possible help, which seems to be the only opportunity for my Father to be discharged from the hospital. Our economic situation in Cambodia is very poor and we cannot afford to pay the discharged fee, so any possible financial support will be highly appreciated. Thank God we got financial assistance from God fearing private people/organizations and Christian Aid associations that assist us initially payment up to this moment, The problem now is that he is due to be discharged from the hospital, The hospital management ask us to pay the balance of 3,500 Dollars (Three Thousand Five Hundred) Dollars before he can be discharged ,

We are very distressed by this news and my family is tensed because we cannot afford the money. Now I am trying to raise funds from known and unknown people so that my father is discharged from the hospital. I am seriously pleading

Your kind support will be highly appreciated.

Sincerely,

Steve Langota

10 August 2018

Re: [DIY] Re: Shower leak/repair question

Not sure if it's a rule or to code, but it's always better to not have the pipes on the outside wall. It's a good thing you found the leak before your cost was more.

From: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of Terry Hennessy THenne1713@aol.com [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 9, 2018 11:48 PM
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DIY] Re: Shower leak/repair question

REPLACE THE CHROME NIPPLE/ PIPE FOR THE SHOWER HEAD. Son lived in a basement apt that tub/ shower plumbing installed wrong on outside wall instead of closet wall, so they ripped out tile, only to find shower pipe leaking at thread; (then, sadly) $3-4k later, all new wall tile with same tub/ plumbing, instead of new tub turned around correctly where repair / inspection could be easy using closet wall :-(

TerryH
thenne1713@aol.com

Virus-free. www.avast.com

__._,_.___

Posted by: Ron Johnson <l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com>

Reply via web post

•

Reply to sender

•

Reply to group

•

Start a New Topic

•

Messages in this topic (3)

Have you tried the highest rated email app?

Please send decorating questions to Interior Motives List - to subscribe send an email to: Interior_Motives-subscribe@yahoogroups.com

Visit Your Group

• Privacy • Unsubscribe • Terms of Use

__,_._,___

Re: [DIY] Support for saw

Hopefully someone with more experience will chime in...

I don't think they need to be 1" apart. To your point, 1/4" or any other measurement would be fine with whatever gap measurements in between each cut. It's going to be waste anyway. If it's easier to chisel out with more cuts then go for it.

I don't have access to instructions but I assume they would suggest making the cuts slightly less deep than the intentional lap joint. So, if they are suggesting a 2" deep joint then maybe cut 1-7/8" or 1-15/16" deep and sand the remaining down to 2".

Saw support. Do you have any extra waste lumber that you can clamp or anchor onto the side of your work piece so that the saw will have support. You'll be cutting through your work piece and then through your anchored lumber. The anchored lumber will give your saw plate something to slide over.

On Thu, Aug 9, 2018 at 2:53 PM, greatyoga@yahoo.com [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

I am building this platform bed made of 4x12 timber. For the joints, I want them to be smooth so they will fit right.. So the joints fit right, I need to cut down halfway through the timbers or 2" down. and keep them flat and even. I tried to do it like the directions said but it is not working out. In other words, I am supposed to make grids with 1" apart and chisel them out but they are not chiseling out flat and even. If I had it to do over again, I would make 1/4 or 1/8" grids and chisel them out. Does anyone have any ideas on how to do this? After they are fairly flat, I will sand them but that is not an option now. I also do not have a table saw but just a worm drive saw. Would some sort of cross cut devise work? The trouble is that after I get 1" or more from an edge, the plate of the saw has nothing to lean on for support so it is more or less suspended in mid air with no support. Here is the instructions. Thanks
https://www.instructables.com/id/Massive-Timbered-Platform-Bed/

GB