Cartoon Network

11 April 2019

Re: [DIY] Re: Frozen Drymaster DM40 Pump

 

In order to separate the motor from the pump, I will have to remove a screen from the bottom of the assembly.  Since these have always been sitting underwater for years, every time I take off a screen, I break it.  The supplier of this pump has stopped selling this unit and has no more parts.  He will be no help.  Before it is over, I will take this thing apart.  If I cannot turn the pump by hand, I will be forced to build my own assembly and hope the city buys into my setup.  This is a 120 volt set up.  I would rather replace the assembly with a horizontal pump that stays above the water.  To that end, I will need to find a self priming pump that can lift water about 10 feet.  

In fact the supplier of the DM40 pump that I have now only sells such a setup at 650 plus tax.  He will not sell me just the pump.  Whata guy!

Jerry Windows
the Villages


On Wed, Apr 10, 2019 at 4:41 PM jdb8251@yahoo.com [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


Howdy Jerry,

Is your down water sump pump attached to a small motor as perhaps a Red Jacket motor starter.  You didn't state the voltage this motor run on some I'm assuming it's a 240v.  If it's a small 120v motor you may only have some trash that has gotten between the motor shaft and the pump shaft. Also you may to just try to turn the motor shaft and see if it's free to turn.  Do take the shaft coupler apart from the motor and the pump. Then you can test both pump and the motor to see that they are both free turning.

Should this fail if you have an electric meter setup for testing the ohm reading between each motor wire lead. Should the two hot wires not show a zero ohm reading then the motor is open in the winding this can also be done if the motor is 120 or 240 volt.  If all this checks out OK, then check the ground (green) to the case and you should get a zero reading.. Then check the green wire between the hot wires, they should be zero reading if not and you do get reading of some number it means the moto has shorted to ground which is why it's humming, and could injury you or kill you with voltage to ground.

Should you need any other assistance email me or call me at 281.913.5243.  Hope this corrects you troubles.


Sincerely,
JD  Brown


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Posted by: Jerry Hnidy <jhnidy@gmail.com>
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[DIY] Re: Frozen Drymaster DM40 Pump

 

Howdy Jerry,


Is your down water sump pump attached to a small motor as perhaps a Red Jacket motor starter.  You didn't state the voltage this motor run on some I'm assuming it's a 240v.  If it's a small 120v motor you may only have some trash that has gotten between the motor shaft and the pump shaft. Also you may to just try to turn the motor shaft and see if it's free to turn.  Do take the shaft coupler apart from the motor and the pump. Then you can test both pump and the motor to see that they are both free turning.

Should this fail if you have an electric meter setup for testing the ohm reading between each motor wire lead. Should the two hot wires not show a zero ohm reading then the motor is open in the winding this can also be done if the motor is 120 or 240 volt.  If all this checks out OK, then check the ground (green) to the case and you should get a zero reading. Then check the green wire between the hot wires, they should be zero reading if not and you do get reading of some number it means the moto has shorted to ground which is why it's humming, and could injury you or kill you with voltage to ground.

Should you need any other assistance email me or call me at 281.913.5243.  Hope this corrects you troubles.


Sincerely,
JD  Brown

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Posted by: jdb8251@yahoo.com
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10 April 2019

[DIY] Frozen Drymaster DM40 Pump

 

I have a Drymaster DM40 sump pump that only buzzes when you turn it on.  The pump portion seems to be locked up.

For those who have not had the pleasure of dealing with this unit, imagine a three foot 2 inch pipe.  On one end of the pipe is an electric motor.  The motor is connected to a shaft that ends at a plastic torpedo pump.  The plastic pump at the end of the pipe is always under water.  Planning ahead, I bought a second pump to have a backup.  Both of these pumps worked fine in October.  I hung the backup on a hook in the basement and ignored it for the winter..

Today I hit the test switch and the pump only buzzed.  So I assume that the motor is good but the pump itself dried out.

This is not an easy disassembly so before I break something, I am thinking about putting the pump end in a can of liquid to see if I cannot get it to turn after it soaks a while.

To that end, is one oil better than another?  Or should I shoot for turpentine or paint thinner?

Any ideas are welcome

Jerry Windows
the Villages

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Posted by: Jerry Hnidy <jhnidy@gmail.com>
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01 April 2019

[DIY] File - Group Reminder

 


This is a monthly reminder of the rules and charter under which this group
operates and its members participate.

1. Commentaries on Religion, Politics, Race, Gender or Sexual
preferences and the use of Profanity have no place on this list and
can and will almost certainly result in the offenders banishment.

2. Otherwise you are pretty much free to say what you think, but please
"Think before you Speak" and we must refrain from inflammatory comments
no matter how tempted we might be. If you must respond in some
otherwise inappropriate manner, we have no control over what goes on
off-line.

3. CIVIL disagreement however is allowed and even encouraged in cases
where the advice given or the expressed intended actions of a member
may result in extensive damage to personnel or property.
But Please keep it CIVIL.

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