Cartoon Network

31 March 2020

[DIY] TNP line

 

The TNP line is supposed to go to the drip pan at the water heater.  From there, a line from the drip pan goes under the house and then outside where it would be visible.

BUT ... why not skip the middle man? Go directly under the house avoiding the pan then going outside? That way, should the TNP valve open up, the water heater is not sitting in hot water, rusting the bottom.

Is there a law (code) that says it HAS to go into the pan?

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Posted by: Ron Johnson <l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com>
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30 March 2020

[DIY] Re: S-Trap

 

The issue is that the vertical needs to be vented to prevent SUCTION sucking the trap DRY; if in doubt, you can add a T and AAV?

TerryH
thenne1713@aol.com

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Posted by: Terry Hennessy <thenne1713@aol.com>
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Re: [DIY] S-Trap

 

I could only find this information Ron.



-Lee


On Mar 29, 2020, at 1:25 PM, Ron Johnson l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


I have come across a lot of S-traps and have changed those that I was able to.  On one I added a length of pipe between the 90 from the pipe going through the floor and the P-trap.  I'm sure by doing that, it was no longer considered an S-trap. My question is: is there a legal length that must be between the P-trap and the pipe going down in order for it to no longer be an S-Trap?


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Posted by: Lee Griffith <ldgriff@earthlink.net>
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[DIY] S-Trap

 

I have come across a lot of S-traps and have changed those that I was able to.  On one I added a length of pipe between the 90 from the pipe going through the floor and the P-trap.  I'm sure by doing that, it was no longer considered an S-trap. My question is: is there a legal length that must be between the P-trap and the pipe going down in order for it to no longer be an S-Trap?

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Posted by: Ron Johnson <l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com>
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25 March 2020

[DIY] Re: Outdoor PEX

 

Ron Johnson wrote:

I find out that due to UV light deteriorization, PEX cannot
> be used outside.  I thought of using the foam insulation but
> that, too has UV deteriorization problems.

Is there a simple way to solve this situation?

Hi Ron;

 The simple UV protection strategy is to paint it black.
While that will also make it get hotter in sunlight, the
black paint absorbs and blocks the UV rays that might
get through a lighter color paint.   Regular PEX tubing
(not the aluminum reinforced PEX AL PEX) can freeze
repeatedly without bursting..   Even the metal fittings
will not burst, with the flexible PEX tubing to absorb
the expansion from freezing.  Off course, that might
crack an inflexible paint, that could then chip off.
So, Insulate the PEX with black insulation, and it
should be relatively trouble free, unless some
critter likes the taste of the insulation.    The
Solar industry has been successfully dealing
with these issues for decades 

-Laren Corie

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Posted by: Laren <sylvanabode@gmail.com>
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Re: [DIY] Outdoor PEX

 

That is a good question. I have never heard of any synthetic substance that did not get harder the colder it got.

Latex, Vinyl, polyester, nylon, PVC, Flourunated plastics as in fuel lines etc. They all get hard in cold temps.

I always thought an inflatable survival tent that could be deployed quickly would be great in the Arctic
but when I researched it there were no materials to make them with that could function in way below zero
temps.

I dont know anything about PEX but if the only problem is UV and not cold temps, then covering or burying
would be easy..
On Tuesday, March 24, 2020, 03:33:25 PM EDT, Ron Johnson l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com [DoIt_Yourself] <doit_yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:




We had a place that had PVC outside and during the last major freeze, broke.  I replaced it with PEX.  Now I find out that due to UV light deteriorization, PEX cannot be used outside.  I thought of using the foam insulation but that, too has UV deteriorization problems.

Is there a simple way to solve this situation? I'd rather not rerun the line, if I don't have to.


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Posted by: Scott Perkins <2scott@bellsouth.net>
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Re: [DIY] Outdoor PEX

 

I'd just use the foam insulation and replace it as needed after UV deterioration. It's relatively inexpensive.


To totally protect against freezing, you'd have to wrap the pipe with electrical heating tape.

Doug


On Mar 24, 2020, at 3:33 PM, Ron Johnson l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

  

We had a place that had PVC outside and during the last major freeze, broke..  I replaced it with PEX.  Now I find out that due to UV light deteriorization, PEX cannot be used outside.  I thought of using the foam insulation but that, too has UV deteriorization problems.

Is there a simple way to solve this situation? I'd rather not rerun the line, if I don't have to.

__._,_.___

Posted by: Douglas L <sparks06524@yahoo.com>
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[DIY] Outdoor PEX

 

We had a place that had PVC outside and during the last major freeze, broke.  I replaced it with PEX.  Now I find out that due to UV light deteriorization, PEX cannot be used outside.  I thought of using the foam insulation but that, too has UV deteriorization problems.

Is there a simple way to solve this situation? I'd rather not rerun the line, if I don't have to.

__._,_.___

Posted by: Ron Johnson <l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com>
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09 March 2020

Re: [DIY] Wrong Wiring

 

I guess I forgot to say ... the water heater inthere that I replaced was a 40 gallon 2-element unit needing 240v.  A normal water heater.


From: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of Kraig Nadjkovic nadj_a_nator@yahoo.com [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 8, 2020 9:18 PM
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com>; YahooGroup DIY <doit_yourself@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [DIY] Wrong Wiring
 
 

They make 115v water heaters. What size was it?

Kraig


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

On Sunday, March 8, 2020, 9:00 PM, Ron Johnson l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

I replaced a water heater that wasn't running well and getting rusted out.  But when I checked the wires, it was a 2-wire run with no ground that was connected to a single 15 amp circuit breaker and neutral.  I was flabbergasted, of course.  

 

My question is, going to a normal double 30 amp circuit breaker, would that mean the electrical power would be less or more to heat up water? I can't figure out if the heater would be continuously running in the initial set-up or if it would run normally and so would be less power but not as hot.

 

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Posted by: Ron Johnson <l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com>
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payment

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Urgently refer to attached for payment.


Best Regards,
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Re: [DIY] Wrong Wiring

 

Many small  5-6-gal water heaters are sized/ used for toilet hand sink, 120-vac; you might convert to 240-volt, but make sure the element is 240v rated and wire sized properly for rated watts, and properly grounded so no shock hazard if element shorts/ leaks to ground?

TerryH
thenne1713@aol.com

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Posted by: Terry Hennessy <thenne1713@aol.com>
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Re: [DIY] Wrong Wiring

 

They make 115v water heaters. What size was it?

Kraig


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

On Sunday, March 8, 2020, 9:00 PM, Ron Johnson l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

I replaced a water heater that wasn't running well and getting rusted out.  But when I checked the wires, it was a 2-wire run with no ground that was connected to a single 15 amp circuit breaker and neutral.  I was flabbergasted, of course.  

 

My question is, going to a normal double 30 amp circuit breaker, would that mean the electrical power would be less or more to heat up water? I can't figure out if the heater would be continuously running in the initial set-up or if it would run normally and so would be less power but not as hot.

 

__._,_.___

Posted by: Kraig Nadjkovic <nadj_a_nator@yahoo.com>
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Please send decorating questions to Interior Motives List - to subscribe send an email to: Interior_Motives-subscribe@yahoogroups.com

.

__,_._,___

[DIY] Wrong Wiring

 

I replaced a water heater that wasn't running well and getting rusted out.  But when I checked the wires, it was a 2-wire run with no ground that was connected to a single 15 amp circuit breaker and neutral.  I was flabbergasted, of course.  

 

My question is, going to a normal double 30 amp circuit breaker, would that mean the electrical power would be less or more to heat up water? I can't figure out if the heater would be continuously running in the initial set-up or if it would run normally and so would be less power but not as hot.

 

__._,_.___

Posted by: Ron Johnson <l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com>
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04 March 2020

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