Cartoon Network

13 May 2016

RE: [DIY] Water shut off valve

 


I've used PEX and it's great.  The sizes I've seen at Lowe's is 1/2", 3/4", and 1" and comes in three colors - Rrd, blue, and white.  The pipe is fairly cheap, but the connections are more expensive.  I would advised not getting the plastic connections that have a disconnect ring on it as anyone who bumps anything against it might accidentally disconnect it and then there's a mess to clean up.  The brass connections (the one's I favor) also connect to copper and CPVC of the same size.  To connect to galvanized, there are connections with threads.  I DO NOT advise using compression coupling.  I did that when I started to learn about PEX and had floods in my basement for a few days in a row.


 


If you're in an area with cold winters, it's not supposed to break when if the water in it freezes.  The connections may, though.  So the best thing is to run the line to an inside manifold and only have connections inside at the fixtures. I've never done that, but I did run it to one sink and have a CPVC "T" to go to the next one (with a shut-off valve, of course) and so on, similar to the way electrical outlets are connected. I used CPVC inside because it was much cheaper than the same in PEX connections. Naturally, if you lose electrical power during a snowstorm, your inside connections might break when your house freezes, but you can only do so much.  You still have to leave a dripping faucet or two even with PEX.  PEX doesn't prevent water from freezing, it just doesn't break when it does freeze.


 


You still need to insulate it so I usually buy the non-split insulation and pass the PEX through it as I run the line.  It gets a little hard to slide the insulation on long runs, but at least you only need to use tape where one piece of insulation meets another. The insulation with the plastic pull tape that exposes the sticky edge are good, but I see that after a while, they start to separate, so you need to put duct tape every foot or so.  But they are better for insulating pipe that's already run.

 
 

To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
From: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Date: Fri, 13 May 2016 06:33:10 -0400
Subject: RE: [DIY] Water shut off valve

 

I have been known to sweat a few pipes BUT if replacement becomes the preferred path, I will be seeking professional help.  A lot of this copper would have to be disassembled to allow removal of the valve.  I am going to the building department to ask about the miracle "pex" tubing.  Maybe if I could use that I would still dyi but the present copper pipe provides support for the meter.  Lots of time to plan this - can live this way until the house goes up for sale.

J Hnidy
Pixel C

On May 12, 2016 22:08, "Ron Johnson l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com [DoIt_Yourself]" <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


My experience with a gate vale is that if it doesn't shut off, replace it.  A ball valve would be better. 
 
You mentioned copper pipe.  If you know how to cut and solder it, all the more power to you.  Otherwise you should hire a licensed plumber and let him take it off and put the new one on.
 

To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
From: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thu, 12 May 2016 19:06:40 -0400
Subject: [DIY] Water shut off valve

 
There is a 3/4 inch copper pipe that brings my water from the city.  The first thing it sees when it gets to the basement is a shut off valve - I think the correct name is gate valve.

That valve will not shut off the water.  It will only slow the flow to a trickle.The city has replaced my water meter twice and both times they had to turn off the water at the street before they removed the old meter.

I have purchased a brand new gate valve and it looks like it should come apart for clean up.  But I have put a lot of torgue on the thing and it only laughs at me.  My hope was that I could take the new one apart and see if cleaning out the valve body is a real possibllity.

The city will be happy to come out and turn off the water so I can work on this problem.  If I gp gorilla on the real valve, can I damage - bend - the copper water pipe?  If I get an impact wrench will that take the thing apart?  Most important, if I can get it apart, will I be able to clean up the valve body and just put the thing back together?

Thanks


Jerry Windows
Woodhaven, Mi





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Posted by: Ron Johnson <l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com>
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