Re: [DIY] Table 314.16(A)

 

Ron's question was why, not what or how.

the link only tells what and how not why 314,16 exists...

Respectfully,

RJC
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On Mon, 2/26/18, Dale Schoepflin dalu@hbcomm.net [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [DIY] Table 314.16(A)
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, February 26, 2018, 6:01 AM


 












Perhaps this link will answer your question.  http://www.ecmweb.com/code-basics/box-fill-calculations

Flat_Land
Dale
Ron Johnson l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com
[DoIt_Yourself] wrote:



 





Have
a situation
and a question.  I am rewiring a house and
the owner
wants 3-way switches for her ceiling lights
PLUS a
switch for the fan.  No problem with the
wiring though
it's not what I usually do so I have to
study the
situation.  This means that a lot of wires
are being
sent into a J-Box, some 12ga some 14. Here
in this place
we are limited to only use 14ga for lights
up to 200
watts.



The
question is:
What is the reason for the limitations on
table 314.16
(A) of the NEC? 



Is it
only to
make sure that there is not overcrowding? I
always tape
my wirenuts on, so they would stay on and
not get
knocked off. 
Does
it have to
do with heat or magnetism created by current
in the
wires? I wouldn't think a lot of either
is created.










Virus-free. www.avast.com













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Re: [DIY] Table 314.16(A)

 

When I worked at UL in Northbrook,IL (if memory serves) we were told
314.16 has its roots in and from the fire code.

I always double the boxes and gang them together so there is
essentially a barrier between the wire count...I know that is
obvioous but we delt with the IL fire marshal/committee and you do
know the definition of a 5 person government committee right?
It is a group with 10 arms and no brain!!

We had to test with max amps for each wire size in full count box for days waiting for
the stupid thing to catch on fire..never did! I wonder if today still do those test..
Respectfully,

RJC
____________________


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--------------------------------------------
On Mon, 2/26/18, Ron Johnson l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [DIY] Table 314.16(A)
To: "YahooGroup DIY" <doit_yourself@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Monday, February 26, 2018, 5:48 AM


 













Have a situation
and a question.  I am rewiring a house and the owner wants
3-way switches for her ceiling lights PLUS a switch for the
fan.  No problem with the wiring though it's not what I
usually do so I have to study
the situation.  This means that a lot of wires are being
sent into a J-Box, some 12ga some 14. Here in this place we
are limited to only use 14ga for lights up to 200
watts.



The question is:
What is the reason for the limitations on table 314.16 (A)
of the NEC? 



Is it only to make
sure that there is not overcrowding? I always tape my
wirenuts on, so they would stay on and not get knocked
off. 
Does it have to do
with heat or magnetism created by current in the wires? I
wouldn't think a lot of either is created.













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Re: [DIY] Table 314.16(A)

 

Perhaps this link will answer your question.  http://www.ecmweb.com/code-basics/box-fill-calculations

Flat_Land Dale

Ron Johnson l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com [DoIt_Yourself] wrote:

 

Have a situation and a question.  I am rewiring a house and the owner wants 3-way switches for her ceiling lights PLUS a switch for the fan.  No problem with the wiring though it's not what I usually do so I have to study the situation.  This means that a lot of wires are being sent into a J-Box, some 12ga some 14. Here in this place we are limited to only use 14ga for lights up to 200 watts.

The question is: What is the reason for the limitations on table 314.16 (A) of the NEC? 

Is it only to make sure that there is not overcrowding? I always tape my wirenuts on, so they would stay on and not get knocked off. 

Does it have to do with heat or magnetism created by current in the wires? I wouldn't think a lot of either is created.

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[DIY] Table 314.16(A)

 

Have a situation and a question.  I am rewiring a house and the owner wants 3-way switches for her ceiling lights PLUS a switch for the fan.  No problem with the wiring though it's not what I usually do so I have to study the situation.  This means that a lot of wires are being sent into a J-Box, some 12ga some 14. Here in this place we are limited to only use 14ga for lights up to 200 watts.

The question is: What is the reason for the limitations on table 314.16 (A) of the NEC? 

Is it only to make sure that there is not overcrowding? I always tape my wirenuts on, so they would stay on and not get knocked off. 

Does it have to do with heat or magnetism created by current in the wires? I wouldn't think a lot of either is created.

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[DIY] Preserving Tree Stumps

 

I've got a few cut tree stumps that I'd like to eventually repurpose.  They've been sitting out for several months under a tarp.  I've discovered that bugs have either infested the stumps or have been in the wood the entire time and have simply created what are now big craters (several inch wide holes that travel into the center and all around).

Is there something I can spray/treat this with in order kill the bugs?

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Re: [DIY] MDF for flooring

 

Thanks everyone for the comments, was hoping someone knew something I didn't about how to seal it - this particular pattern is perfect for us.  I have samples of all the vinyl planks, real wood, tiles, etc etc, and the cost to buy isn't bad — the cost to install is.  Vinyl click together planks are $1.98 sq' to buy and $1.87 to lay, plus tax, and over 1400' of open space adds up.  Will probably end up with something just in the open spaces for now - something we can do.  Tired of spending money, worrying with workers and I just want to relax for awhile :)  We have friends with polished concrete and it's beautiful, but it isn't cheap either.  One of our boys did the concrete counter tops in their kitchen and that was one of the things that sold their condo so fast.  Would you believe we have beautiful 2" thick solid oak plank floors upstairs?  What's that saying…..the best laid plans….LOL.  DH thought we were too old - now he loves the barn :)

Jan Flood
oakridgefarm@gmail.com

On Feb 10, 2018, at 9:00 AM, Laren sylvanabode@gmail.com [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Hi Jan;

 The problem with MDF is that it is not waterproof. It puffs up and falls apart, when it gets wet, and if you seal it to a concrete floor that does not have a really good vapor barrier underneath it (as I assume is the case with your barn conversion) there will be some moisture in/under the slab.

    I highly recommend vinyl plank flooring. With careful shopping it can be had for not much more than $1/sqft.  We have used it in our bedroom and bath, and intend to also use it for our upstairs floors, as well as in the kitchen and bath of the other house we are remodeling.

However, if I were in you position, I would spend some time studying up on the wide variety of possible concrete finishes, since that would provide a hard, flat, permanent finish. Finished concrete can be quite beautiful (see link). We re even considering using concrete for the top of our coffee bar.

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Posted by: "oakridgefarm@gmail.com" <oakridgefarm@gmail.com>

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Sign in attempt prevented

Hi mr, Your account is currently not enabled to sign in from apps that do not meet modern security standards (ex. Older versions of mail and calendar apps such as Outlook). As a result, we prevented a sign in to your Yahoo account (narrongs). Date and Time: February 11, 2018 12:36:15 AM PST Location: Lithuania (IP Address: 88.118.152.15) We strongly recommend that you switch to Yahoo's apps such as Yahoo Mail on desktop and mobile and remove your account from all other less secure apps. If you still want to use an app that uses less secure sign in, go to https://login.yahoo.com/account/security#other-apps and turn on "Allow apps that use less secure sign in". This is not recommended and may leave your account more vulnerable to compromise. To learn more, please visit our help page: https://help.yahoo.com/kb/SLN27791.html. Yahoo blocked this sign in attempt, but if it looks suspicious to you or it's not from an application that you're using, go to https://login.yahoo.com/account/change-password and change the password for your account. You are receiving this notification because fromworksmart.doityourself@blogger.com is listed as a recovery email for narrongs@yahoo.com. Thanks, Yahoo Replies sent to this email cannot be answered.

[DIY] Re: MDF for flooring

 

Hi Jan;

 The problem with MDF is that it is not waterproof. It puffs up and falls apart, when it gets wet, and if you seal it to a concrete floor that does not have a really good vapor barrier underneath it (as I assume is the case with your barn conversion) there will be some moisture in/under the slab.

    I highly recommend vinyl plank flooring. With careful shopping it can be had for not much more than $1/sqft.  We have used it in our bedroom and bath, and intend to also use it for our upstairs floors, as well as in the kitchen and bath of the other house we are remodeling.

However, if I were in you position, I would spend some time studying up on the wide variety of possible concrete finishes, since that would provide a hard, flat, permanent finish. Finished concrete can be quite beautiful (see link). We re even considering using concrete for the top of our coffee bar.

< https://www.google.com/search?q=finished+concrete+images&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS701US701&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi617KYy5vZAhUF24MKHYD-CqYQsAQIKA&biw=1242&bih=602 >

-Laren Corie-

Designer and consultant for energy efficient homes, since 1975

Virus-free. www.avg.com

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Posted by: Laren <sylvanabode@gmail.com>

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Re: [DIY] Re: AFCI

 

LLE is a Limited Licensed Electrician.  That means I can do any work up to $25,000 but I cannot call myself a contractor.  Since I got the license mainly so I can work on my own buildings, those limits are pretty meaningless to me.  In a pinch, I can hire myself out, but I don't think I want to do that.  My situation also means that I don't work in the field day after day and so I tend to forget a few things and need to brush up when I do use it.

The only AFCI I found at Lowes is the circuit breaker AFCI.  Since I am putting in a new box, I need to comply with the NEC on that.  AFCI is not he same as GFCI and they serve different purposes.

If you have an existing circuit already, you do not need to make any changes.  The only change I almost always insist on would be to add a GFCI in the bathroom and kitchen.  There is no rule saying you need to make any changes to keep up with the code, even that one, but I do it anyway.  I have a building with knob and tube wiring - it works and is not dangerous, so it's still there.

The buildings I have are usually older than me - they were built in the early 1900's (except the one antebellum building).  Those buildings usually have insufficient amount of outlets and the wires are getting dangerously frayed.  But if  your buildings are only 35, that shouldn't be a problem.  If you don't need to touch them, don't.  If you need to add more outlets, consider wiremolding.  It's easier then cutting a hole in the wall and another to the space below, then crawling around to deal with the wire run, though some people don't like the visual aspect.  If you are putting in a GFCI, remove the existing box and get the deeper blue plastic old work box - it has enough space to run the wires and hold the GFCI.

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From: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of 2scott@bellsouth.net [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, February 9, 2018 3:54 AM
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DIY] Re: AFCI

 

 

I have several duplex and townhome rental properties with  average age  being 35 years.  In the past

I have been pretty handy in installing GFCI outlets in kitchens and bathrooms etc but these new

AFCI  completely baffle me.   I dont know if they are really better than GFCI or why and dont know

if I could afford to replace all my outlets or circuit breakers to the AFCI breakers.

If you are an LLE....   I assume that means "licensed electrician" :-)   do you have any words

of advice for older properties ?

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Posted by: Ron Johnson <l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com>

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