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25 June 2018

[DIY] Re: What to do with unused toilet?

 

Quick follow-up to this: so I just ordered the replacement parts and while I am waiting for those, I did as suggested and poured about a cup of water very slowly into the toilet bowl. Now it's just sitting stagnant at the bottom.

Is that supposed to happen or is it supposed to flow all the way down?

Also, after an hour, I checked around the bowl base and did not find any leaks. So that's good!

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Posted by: bigmikechen@yahoo.com
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Posted by at 12:32 0 comments

23 June 2018

[DIY] Re: Mouse-proof Wallpaper Paste?

 

Try "poor mans fiberglass"; use the cloth, but adhere it with paint - latex or oil, your choice.  It makes a fairly strong surface and should'nt attract rodents or insects.

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Posted by: frank king <biker06365@yahoo.com>
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Posted by at 19:48 0 comments

[DIY] Re: Mouse-proof Wallpaper Paste?

 

Most old pro insulation was canvas wrapped; patches are available pre-coated with same/ similar to sheetrock mud, cut to size, dip in water and apply.  

TerryH
thenne1713@aol.com

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Posted by: Terry Hennessy <thenne1713@aol.com>
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Posted by at 09:31 0 comments

[DIY] Re: Mouse-proof Wallpaper Paste?

 

I guess I wasn't clear enough.  There's no need to "seal" the asbestos insulation.  It's already sealed with an outer cloth coating, and most of that has lasted 93 years with no problems.   But there are places where the coating is torn or damaged, exposing the raw asbestos.  

Here's a picture of what may be the worst place, where an idiot previous owner chopped the insulation off to install a wall around the furnace, leaving the covering ragged  and torn with loose asbestos able to spill out: 


What I want to do is glue white cloth around this that will blend in with what's already there and keep loose asbestos from getting out.  But now I know it needs to be mouse-proof, so I can't use wheat-based wallpaper paste anymore.  My question is whether anyone here has tried clay-based wallpaper paste, and how does it work?

Mike Taglieri

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Posted by: Mike T <mctaglieri@gmail.com>
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Posted by at 01:03 0 comments

21 June 2018

[DIY] Re: Mouse-proof Wallpaper Paste?

 

I'd solve the asbestos sealing problem not with wrapped fabric and paste but by spraying the asbestos with clear polyurethane lacquer. 

Doug

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Posted by: Douglas <sparks06524@yahoo.com>
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Posted by at 10:27 0 comments

20 June 2018

[DIY] Mouse-proof Wallpaper Paste?

 

Just to be clear, I don't have mice eating my wallpaper.  What I have is asbestos pipe insulation in the basement of my 1925 house.  Asbestos insulation is dangerous only if the insulation becomes ragged and the stuff gets into the air.  So for about the past 5 years, I've been wrapping places where the insulation was getting torn up with strips of old sheets, glued on with wallpaper paste. That worked fine and it blends in nicely with the white color of the original insulation.

Then a couple of weeks ago I started getting what looked like confetti on my floor, because a mouse or mice were eating the wallpaper paste and shredding the wrappings I put on.  (They're not interested in the original insulation).  I set a trap and caught one mouse.  I'll be doing more, because it's hard to believe one did all this damage.

Traditional wallpaper paste is wheat based, which is probably what they were after.  So now I need to re-wrap these pipes with a paste that doesn't attract mice. I know epoxy, etc., wouldn't attract mice, but to work well with strips of cloth, it should be a nontoxic, water-based adhesive like wallpaper paste.   There are wallpaper adhesives I've seen online that are called clay based.  Has anyone tried those, and would they be mouse-proof?

Mike Taglieri

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Posted by: Mike T <mctaglieri@gmail.com>
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Posted by at 11:17 0 comments

15 June 2018

[DIY] Re: Dehumidifier Power

 

A 6 amp current draw will not overload an extension cord, even accounting for starting current.
I'd get a heavy duty cord rated at least 12 amps, as short as possible - pretty common.

Doug

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Posted by: Douglas <sparks06524@yahoo.com>
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Posted by at 05:06 0 comments

14 June 2018

Re: Re: [DIY] Dehumidifier Power

 

Yes you can use as extension cord ad long as it's heavy enough.  Look for a 16 gauge. Extensions Cord should be good for about  10 amps constant current. they are available from home depot or the like.  Not one of those little cord you can buy from the dollar store.

Hth John

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On Thu Jun 14 07:36:08 EDT 2018 "Ron Johnson l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com [DoIt_Yourself]" wrote:

 

The reason it says not to use an extension cord is the fact that most cords are not equipped to handle that much power for an extended time - especially normal household extension cords.  You're dehumidifier will be constantly running for a while.  When it does get to the point where it turns on and off, there is a surge of power when it turns on.  


You'll also have to empty the water collection container at least every day for a while. I bought one that has a connection to automatically drain, but I have to keep the machine tilted back to make it work.  I don't know about the laws where you are, but here we are NOT suppose to have it drain to the city's sewer system. But I don't think the sewer police have started checking that yet.


I would use a sturdy construction-type orange extension cord used for saws and such.  I assume, being a basement, the outlet is on a GFCI circuit breaker or has one one first outlet on the line.  If not, please do so.


The other option of installing another outlet would be a better choice, if it's done right.  You need to bring a new line from an existing outlet to a new box.  It's not difficult, if you know what you're doing.  The main concern would be not to crowd a box with wires and to be sure that where the wire goes into the box has a wire clamp. Don't forget to staple the wires so there is no loose sections are tempting people to  hang things on.



From:

DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com

<

DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com

> on behalf of Jerry Hnidy

jhnidy@gmail.com

[DoIt_Yourself] <

DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com

>
     


Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2018 7:20 PM
To: Do It Yourself
Subject: [DIY] Dehumidifier Power
 
 

So I finally gave up and agreed that my basement was too damp.  Bought a dehumidifier.  Says it will draw 6 amps.

The book that came with it warns not to use an extension cord.  And the unit provides a generous 3 foot cord for 110v.

Is there an extension cord that will get me to an outlet 9 feet away?  If not, can I make my own with romex?

Thanks

Jerry Windows
Davenport Florida


Virus-free.

www.avast.com

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Posted by: jbuf@ix.netcom.com
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Posted by at 20:05 0 comments

Re: [DIY] Dehumidifier Power

 

The reason it says not to use an extension cord is the fact that most cords are not equipped to handle that much power for an extended time - especially normal household extension cords.  You're dehumidifier will be constantly running for a while.  When it does get to the point where it turns on and off, there is a surge of power when it turns on.  


You'll also have to empty the water collection container at least every day for a while. I bought one that has a connection to automatically drain, but I have to keep the machine tilted back to make it work.  I don't know about the laws where you are, but here we are NOT suppose to have it drain to the city's sewer system. But I don't think the sewer police have started checking that yet.


I would use a sturdy construction-type orange extension cord used for saws and such.  I assume, being a basement, the outlet is on a GFCI circuit breaker or has one one first outlet on the line.  If not, please do so.


The other option of installing another outlet would be a better choice, if it's done right.  You need to bring a new line from an existing outlet to a new box.  It's not difficult, if you know what you're doing.  The main concern would be not to crowd a box with wires and to be sure that where the wire goes into the box has a wire clamp. Don't forget to staple the wires so there is no loose sections are tempting people to  hang things on.



From: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of Jerry Hnidy jhnidy@gmail.com [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2018 7:20 PM
To: Do It Yourself
Subject: [DIY] Dehumidifier Power
 
 

So I finally gave up and agreed that my basement was too damp.  Bought a dehumidifier.  Says it will draw 6 amps.

The book that came with it warns not to use an extension cord.  And the unit provides a generous 3 foot cord for 110v.

Is there an extension cord that will get me to an outlet 9 feet away?  If not, can I make my own with romex?

Thanks

Jerry Windows
Davenport Florida


Virus-free. www.avast.com

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Posted by: Ron Johnson <l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com>
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Posted by at 19:36 0 comments

[DIY] Dehumidifier Power

 

So I finally gave up and agreed that my basement was too damp.  Bought a dehumidifier.  Says it will draw 6 amps.

The book that came with it warns not to use an extension cord.  And the unit provides a generous 3 foot cord for 110v.

Is there an extension cord that will get me to an outlet 9 feet away?  If not, can I make my own with romex?

Thanks

Jerry Windows
Davenport Florida

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Posted by: Jerry Hnidy <jhnidy@gmail.com>
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Posted by at 08:20 0 comments

06 June 2018

[DIY] Removing subfloor over concrete slab

 

The leak that we thought was from the shower and had it repaired last fall, has turned out to be a leak from the toilet. New plumber wanted to double check before he opened the wall, said it was such an unusual leak in a small dark location, you'd have to be a plumber to find it. I don't think the original plumber even looked in the toilet area, saw the old shower control was leaking and said it was probably running along a board and dripping to the floor. Since there was never any standing water it wasn't till some tiles became loose we investigated further.

We have the ceramic tile removed and the subfloor cut out. The tile was only in the toilet area, a very small room. The flooring in the rest of the bathroom is wide wood planks. We thought it was installed direct on the concrete but appears it may have subfloor over concrete also. No obvious damage and tearing up the entire bathroom is not an option. There is a 6" wall between the toilet area and the rest of the bathroom, the only visible area between tile and wood is at the doorway.

I think I've read about a product you can use in a situation like this, a spray, that would kill any unseen damage that might be there. Anyone know of this or any product that will work here?

Thanks.

Sent from my iPad

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Posted by: OakRidgeFarm <oakridgefarm@gmail.com>
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Posted by at 06:15 0 comments

04 June 2018

Re: [DIY] Water Jug Leak On Carpet/Baseboards

 

Well, if you've been thinking of replacing it with hardwood floor, the baseboards will be pulled up for that and most likely, depending on the style and your likes, will be replaced.  My concern is not the baseboards themselves, but the wall behind it.  Baseboards are fairly cheap to replace.


It sounds like you've done a lot and with about a half-gallon of water on the carpet, you might have done enough, but would I prefer to check than guess.  You might be able to talk a guy who works at a carpet place to pull it back after hours for a few bucks (I assume it's in a corner), then you will know exactly the extent of the damage.  You CAN get a regular carpet company to do it, but they will most likely try to sell you something and what you want is an unbiased opinion.


Keep an eye and nose out for a smell.  If you do smell something, then you HAVE mold.  But it's better to avoid getting mold in the first place.  I've worked with removing mold from my buildings and haven't had any real problems (I don't wear a mask - just breath through my nose, but I'm not advocating that), while others are so sensitive to it, they get sick at the sight of it.



From: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of bigmikechen@yahoo.com [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 3, 2018 10:05 PM
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DIY] Water Jug Leak On Carpet/Baseboards
 
 

Thanks for the fast reply Ron. Is there a way to gauge how this is going without pulling up the carpet? The main reason I ask is that things are really crazy at work over the next few weeks and learning a new DIY project like pulling up the carpet will be quite a bit of effort. If there's a way to gauge how our drying efforts worked (smell, feel, etc) without getting into danger territory, that's the preference. Otherwise, maybe it's best to call a handyman and/or mold inspector?

Here's what I've done so far:

-Soaked up areas in towels (it didn't pull much but there was definitely some moisture put into the towels)
-Shop vacced carpet for about 30 minutes to try and pull moisture out.
-Shampooed carpet with white vinegar
-Used shop-air fan on spot for 12 straight hours.
-After that, used hair dryer on any spots that had slight wet feel (based on putting hand on and pushing down...not really wet but you could feel a little difference in colder to the touch) or funky smell. Each spot of about 6" radius got 30-40 minutes cumulative of hot air. AFterwards, feel and funky smell were gone.
-Continued using shop-air fan.

Is it reasonable to keep an eye out for these damp/funky spots over the next week and then just continue this? Or is that too risky?

The other X-factor is we've been thinking about changing this to a hardwood floor for a while anyway. Does this seem like a good kick in the ass to just go ahead and do it over the upcoming weeks?

Also, on the base boards -- would you recommend using a drill to do a few holes in the base boards? And then after that, patch it with epoxy down the road?

Thanks again!



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Posted by: Ron Johnson <l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com>
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Posted by at 20:41 0 comments
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