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28 February 2014

Re: [DIY] staining pine

 

thank you for that information :)





Joyce aka Mom aka Nana



On Thu, Feb 27, 2014 at 10:23 PM, JEFFREY WILLIAMS <livhosaere62@yahoo.com> wrote:
 

I personally always use watco danish oil stain just slather it on unconditioned wood wipe for an even color application. it does not leave marks where you start or stop or light or dark spots.and only need on application.



On Thursday, February 27, 2014 7:14 PM, Joyce O <theoldhen@gmail.com> wrote:
 
Love the idea of you experimenting with the laundry softner and pine.

I brush it on and I do not do it lightly. IF I think it is way too thick I brush it around or wipe with a cloth. It doesnt take long to dry.





Joyce aka Mom aka Nana



On Thu, Feb 27, 2014 at 1:36 PM, Jan Flood <jan.flood2@att.net> wrote:
Interesting, I tried googling too with no luck.  I make a solution for aging wood and another to color it so why not try fabric softener?  I have some pine boards in the garage I’ll have to do some experimenting next week.  Forget what state you’re in but might be the Amish either mill and plane their own pine or pick and choose it carefully.  We have a sawmill fairly close and I know many do their own but haven’t seen them selling it. Oak is the main wood here and cedar, not a lot of pine but interesting question.







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Posted by at 20:55 0 comments

Re: [DIY] staining pine

 

I personally always use watco danish oil stain just slather it on unconditioned wood wipe for an even color application. it does not leave marks where you start or stop or light or dark spots.and only need on application.



On Thursday, February 27, 2014 7:14 PM, Joyce O <theoldhen@gmail.com> wrote:
 
Love the idea of you experimenting with the laundry softner and pine.

I brush it on and I do not do it lightly. IF I think it is way too thick I brush it around or wipe with a cloth. It doesnt take long to dry.





Joyce aka Mom aka Nana



On Thu, Feb 27, 2014 at 1:36 PM, Jan Flood <jan.flood2@att.net> wrote:
Interesting, I tried googling too with no luck.  I make a solution for aging wood and another to color it so why not try fabric softener?  I have some pine boards in the garage I'll have to do some experimenting next week.  Forget what state you're in but might be the Amish either mill and plane their own pine or pick and choose it carefully.  We have a sawmill fairly close and I know many do their own but haven't seen them selling it. Oak is the main wood here and cedar, not a lot of pine but interesting question.







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Posted by at 12:23 0 comments

Re: [DIY] displaying a rock collection?

 

I've got a rock collection that I want to display on shelves that are 1 by 6 and I have quite a collection and some are almost 3 lbs.
Is there an inexpensive way of attaching those shelves to a wall? I need a sturdy bracket or maybe someone can suggest a homemade solution.
The brackets I've seen are about 50ç each and I'd need a lot of them.
carmen

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Posted by at 12:14 0 comments

Re: [DIY] staining pine

 

Love the idea of you experimenting with the laundry softner and pine.

I brush it on and I do not do it lightly. IF I think it is way too thick I brush it around or wipe with a cloth. It doesnt take long to dry.





Joyce aka Mom aka Nana



On Thu, Feb 27, 2014 at 1:36 PM, Jan Flood <jan.flood2@att.net> wrote:
Interesting, I tried googling too with no luck.  I make a solution for aging wood and another to color it so why not try fabric softener?  I have some pine boards in the garage I’ll have to do some experimenting next week.  Forget what state you’re in but might be the Amish either mill and plane their own pine or pick and choose it carefully.  We have a sawmill fairly close and I know many do their own but haven’t seen them selling it. Oak is the main wood here and cedar, not a lot of pine but interesting question.







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Posted by at 08:13 0 comments

Re: [DIY] staining pine

Interesting, I tried googling too with no luck. I make a solution for aging wood and another to color it so why not try fabric softener? I have some pine boards in the garage I'll have to do some experimenting next week. Forget what state you're in but might be the Amish either mill and plane their own pine or pick and choose it carefully. We have a sawmill fairly close and I know many do their own but haven't seen them selling it. Oak is the main wood here and cedar, not a lot of pine but interesting question.







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Posted by at 03:36 0 comments

26 February 2014

[DIY] re: staining pine

 

Thanks for the reply Jan.
I did put a bit of straight bleach on a test board and it did not do anything to lighten the stain. I have some paint thinner and might try that.

I have googled for information on the laundry softner for sealing pine and can not find aanything. Before I was told that tip, I had more than once been to craft shows or farmer's markets in Wisconsin and loved the look of the wood products. They always looked the same (color) and had the same shade... no streaking, no dark areas... and I am suspecting now that those amish made wood products were sealed with the laundry softner :)

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Posted by at 20:17 0 comments

Re: [DIY] RE: Staining Pine

 

Thank you... no I have not applied varnish yet.

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Posted by at 20:12 0 comments

24 February 2014

[DIY] re: staining pine

 

I learned the hard way to always seal pine with Wood Conditioner before staining - we have lots of Amish builders here but I hadn't heard of using fabric softener.  Does it raise the grain?   I love MinWax, the gel sealer/stain was so easy to use and always gave a good finish - but like you when I went to get some recently, they don't carry it anymore.  


Pure Turpentine might lift the color a little.  Brush it on a small area and wipe it off, you can see if the color comes up on your cloth.  You could also try some strong bleach/water or add a little dishwashing detergent to water and try that, let it air dry in the sun.  Not as strong as Turp but usually on hand and dishwasher detergent is used in different projects to "bleach" color.  A few drops will almost instantly remove stains from a tea pot, thermos etc.  Acetone removes about anything but I don't like to use it.  Probably a good idea to sand a small area before you try any thing then let it dry thoroughly before deciding if it worked or not.  MixWax makes a clear, oil-rubbed look finish that I like to use, am on my last bottle so will have to do some looking on-line.  Good luck!

Jan 



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Posted by at 21:24 0 comments

Re: [DIY] RE: Staining Pine

 

 You can lighten the stain by going over it using a soft rag with either paint thinner or denatured alcohol, providing of course you have not applied any varnish yet.
Dale in the Flatlands. "Why waste time learning when ignorance is instantaneous."
theoldhen@gmail.com wrote:
Now I have another problem. The 1st door will be much darker that the other 4 doors. I must have them done in the ligher shade because of a large window and sliding door that were put in 5 years ago.

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Posted by at 12:08 0 comments

[DIY] RE: Staining Pine

 

After giving this a bit more thought, I am thinking it is not fair to blame the bad look to my husband not applying enough sealer. I think the door was a bad one with too many imperfections. The wood on it was rougher than the other 2, and it has a lot more bad areas.

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Posted by at 01:00 0 comments

Re: [DIY] Searching the old posts

 

Either plug in search terms into the box at the top entitled "Search Conversations".

Or go to the drop down menu labeled "View" (which is below the group photo and below the two drop down menus "About" and "Membership").  From there you can go to "Message History" and click on previous months.

Or more unlikely, if you have a "Message Number", you can enter it into the box just left of the "View" menu.


On Sun, Feb 23, 2014 at 7:43 AM, <theoldhen@gmail.com> wrote:
 

How do we do a search in this group?


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Posted by at 00:51 0 comments

23 February 2014

[DIY] Searching the old posts

 

How do we do a search in this group?

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Posted by at 21:43 0 comments

[DIY] RE: Staining Pine

 

Thanks for the replies. I did a bit of googling for information and found just like your replies, that there is a problem often with pine. Difference in the pine and very often blotches like I am seeing are to be expected.

Went to the local small town local lumber yard to purchase the min wax conditioner and the owner told us he discontinued carrying it because no one ever bought it.
Here is what I have learned with my project.
I stained the first door, and inside doorway trim (?)  a 2nd time and let the stain sit for about 7  to 8 minutes. The result was a much darker early american and did help cover many of the problems. Normally I apply stain and follow within a very short time with a rag. This time I read the directions and it said to let it sit for 5 to 15 minutes.

2nd door and inside doorway trim, I applied the softner myself (husband did the first)
I brushed on the stain and set a timer for 5 minutes or so. The color was perfect, matching a window and trim that we put in about 5 years ago.

This tells me that my husband applied a super thin layer of softner! Guess I will have to do the rest of the doors and trim myself.

Now I have another problem. The 1st door will be much darker that the other 4 doors. I must have them done in the ligher shade because of a large window and sliding door that were put in 5 years ago.

What can I do to lighten the darker door and trim? This has become a dang headache. I am not even concerned with the light/dark areas anymore.

Try the liquid laundry softener sometime.  The man who trimmed out our picture window told me about the softner when I told him I could not afford to replace all the doors and trims in our house with oak and had to go with pine.

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Posted by at 21:40 0 comments

22 February 2014

[DIY] Melamine

 

I have some prev used melamine that I used low as a desk, now id like to use higher as a shelf. i bought 2 metal brackets closetmaid style with rod hoops for multi use. 


However the melamine is soooo heavy yet it is clearly straight as such a product whereas i just put up a lighter pine shelf which was warped like most others in the "specialty" bin at home dep and well  i had to nail down several extra to really keep it from busting upward. 

Im concerned that the melamine is too heavy, is this concern legit?. I do expect to use studs atleast in one Bracket, I cant remember if its gypsum or plaster behind.  Any better suggestion. Thanks much

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Posted by at 02:19 0 comments

20 February 2014

Re: [DIY] Staining Pine

 

Joyce,
Pine will absorb stain differently dependent upon the grain.  You would have been better off using a sanding sealer or other sealer product first to fill the softer wood areas so it would not absorb the stain so much.  The light areas are the harder part of the grain and will absorb less stain.   I am not sure what roll the fabric softener plays - have never used it.
Ray

On 2/19/2014 1:14 PM, Joyce O wrote:
 

We are replacing several doors and trim in our old farmhouse with pine doors and 1 x 4 pine boards from Menards. I have sanded the 1 x 4's, applied fabric softner to the raw wood (was told the Amish do this for smoother looking stain) and then staining with Early American. The boards look wonderful.

My husband lightly sanded a door and covered it with the fabric softner.

I am staining it and the door jam trim and am not happy wtih the results. Lots of light areas.

Is there another product I should be using on the pine doors before staining? More sanding?

We do not have any other lumber yards close to us and thought these doors at Menards looked nice and smooth. The stain is telling us something else.



Joyce aka Mom aka Nana







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Posted by at 04:23 0 comments
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