hmmm...after having done and helped on 3 decks...sono tube footing and beam and post
is the cheapest and easiest by far..depending on soil and drainage and frost level --- Messing with
a big long foundation is overkill IMHO...sono tubes every 6 feet and to proper depth for your area
and 4 x 10, or 4 x 12 beams and 6x6 poles will support 750 lbs per sq foot of snow and people
on your deck...my mountain deck has survived 40 people and 12 feet of (wet) snow...using 4x12
beams and 6" x 6" poles to sono tube foundations 3 feet deep..but I poured a "mushroom"
16" round x 18" deep ready-mix pre-sono tube foundation, let cure than poured the sono-tube
foundation over that sub structure...just because I wanted extra support in case I put hot tube
or stone BBQ on the deck or future expansion...being in no particular hurry the project proceeded
3-4 tubes at a time for a 40 foot long deck..and built as friends appeared to help raise beams,
mix concrete, fire up the BBQ, open beers,pour wine, screw in decking boards (redwood)...etc
and it turned out nice...
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From: "grubemed@yahoo.com [DoIt_Yourself]" <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com>
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2014 4:54 AM
Subject: [DIY] Re: porch/deck footings
Hi Michael,
The important factors in determining your footing requirements are:
What type of soil will the footing be resting on?
What is the anticipated weight load on each footing? (building materials + Snow + furnishings + occupants =?)
How deep is the frost line in your area?
Personally, I like to keep the spans on my rim joists short, so I would go with more footings rather than fewer.
You mention that you are planning to hire out the footings. If I was going to pay someone to bring in equipment, I would probably look at having them dig a trench and pour a continuous footing rather than dig holes & use tubes. The cost would likely be about the same, judging by my own experiences in that direction. The advantage of using tubes is that you can easily dig "postholes" yourself & fill them with concrete that you mix in small batches. Thus, the project can advance "one hole at a time" with very little disruption to living.
The big advantages of a continuous poured footing are that the weight is supported over a much larger area and that you can locate your support piers anywhere you like along the footing. This allows easy adjustments to suit any changes you may make while building.
Just a thought.
John Grube
---In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, <mbaldwin577@...> wrote :
Hi,
I am replacing my collapsing front porch. I am making it bigger and adding on a deck. I have no building department to ask my questions to. The only approval I needed from the town was for zoning to make sure I am not too close to a sidewalk. Please do not answer my questions with "go ask your building inspector".
I am trying to figure out how many peers and footings I need. I am probably going to use the Sonna tubes.
Foot print will be 12 by 30 with a 18 long 6 wide extension around to the side door.
12x18 of it will be walled, roofed and insulated, to act as kind of a mud room. Leaves 12x12 deck and the little wrap around part.
One side of course is going to be anchored to the house. I will pay to have the footings done, and doing the rest myself, so I'd rather spend a little more on larger lumber instead of more on labor for additional footings.
If I go with 2x10 12 foot long, would I have enough footings parallel to the house if I put them every 10 foot. This would give me 4 posts.
Other thoughts were also 5 footings, spaced every 7.5 foot, and 6 footings, spaced every 6 foot.
I do not mind over building, but I don't' want to way over do it either.
Joists would be 2x10 12 foot 16 on center. Doubled up rim joists, and doubled up where it will switch from mud room to deck.
thoughts?
Michael
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Posted by: Mountain Master <mountain953346@yahoo.com>
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