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27 September 2017
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18 September 2017
[DIY] Help identify this kitchen faucet? [1 Attachment]
[Attachment(s) from bigmikechen@yahoo.com [DoIt_Yourself] included below]
Everything is falling apart in my house all at once. ;) This kitchen faucet (see photo) started drip-drip-dripping. I haven't been able to identify a model or make on it, there's no logo at the base or on the back. I think it's Delta because of the red/blue button on the handle? Are there generic parts for fixing these things or do you need specific manufacturer parts?
The leak is noticably more intense the more the handle is moved counter clockwise. It doesn't really seem to be affected by rotating the spout. Does that help identify the source of the problem?
This was installed about 7 years ago. I'm assuming for the money, it's fine just to repair whatever is wrong with it rather than replace it with new one?
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Posted by: bigmikechen@yahoo.com
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Re: [DIY] Leak from upstairs toilet to ceiling AC vent
Congradulations!
To be honest, I've never heard of the water coming out of the handle. Usually, the water just keeps going down the pipe in the midde of the tank. Maybe you have a style I'm not familiar with.
At least it was an easy fix.
From: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of bigmikechen@yahoo.com [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2017 9:50 AM
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DIY] Leak from upstairs toilet to ceiling AC vent
Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2017 9:50 AM
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DIY] Leak from upstairs toilet to ceiling AC vent
Found the culprit. It was a combination of things. First one of the bolts was loose. Second, the ball cock system was old and the mechanism to push down on the overflow had deteriorated, so it was occasionally leaking out the toilet handle.
Plumber came in and looked, didn't see any signs of molding or bigger picture damage. He said we were lucky that we caught it right away so that it didn't sit anywhere long. He noted that the bathroom was indeed right over the vent and the fact that the vent stopped dripping pretty much right after we mopped up the bathroom where the clacked linoleum was shows the culprit. He figured the water found a path through the linoleum, rode the outside of the ductwork until it went down, then dripped out the duct exit and through the vent.
Fingers crossed that's all it is.
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Posted by: Ron Johnson <l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com>
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17 September 2017
Re: [DIY] How to reset a Carrier furnace
Update on this - had a plumber come by for the leaking toilet issue mentioned in a separate thread and his company does HVAC, so he took a look. He reattached the vent pipe (said that whoever let this go previously should be fired) and we ran the startup sequence. The error code changed after that. I'd seen 31 as documented above, which was mostly about exhaust. After the pipe was reconnected, it said 34:
34 Ignition proving failutre: Check for
-Oxide buildup on flame sensor
-Proper flame sense microamps
-Gas valve defective or gas valve turned off
-Defective Hot Surface ignitor
-Manual valve shut off
-Low inlet gas pressure
-Control ground continuity
-Green wire must be connected to furnace metal sheets
-Inadequate flame carryover or rough ignition
-Flame sensor must be ungrounded
Since he was there for a plumbing issue, he recommended that we talk to their HVAC person for a follow up. Does this sound like the ignitor needs to be replaced?
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Posted by: bigmikechen@yahoo.com
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Re: [DIY] Leak from upstairs toilet to ceiling AC vent
Found the culprit. It was a combination of things. First one of the bolts was loose. Second, the ball cock system was old and the mechanism to push down on the overflow had deteriorated, so it was occasionally leaking out the toilet handle.
Plumber came in and looked, didn't see any signs of molding or bigger picture damage. He said we were lucky that we caught it right away so that it didn't sit anywhere long. He noted that the bathroom was indeed right over the vent and the fact that the vent stopped dripping pretty much right after we mopped up the bathroom where the clacked linoleum was shows the culprit. He figured the water found a path through the linoleum, rode the outside of the ductwork until it went down, then dripped out the duct exit and through the vent.
Fingers crossed that's all it is.
__._,_.___
Posted by: bigmikechen@yahoo.com
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Re: [DIY] Leak from upstairs toilet to ceiling AC vent
I don't have a direct answer, but I think I can eliminate some variables.
First, I can't imagine how pulling up weeds in the yard would have anything to do with an upstairs toilet leaking unless you've got some bizarre, looping, solar heated system that ties both ends in a knot.
Second, I can't imagine how a heat wave could have anything to do with a leaking toilet--although huh it could cause a sweaty toilet--unless you've got serious structural/moisture issues that causes major upheaval of the structure with temperature and humidity swings.
If a leaky toilet is the source of the problem (rule out sweaty first) and it really does only do it periodically, I think it's more likely someone is camping out on the toilet looking at dank memes on their phone, leaning back, and causing the tank to leak as they sit there and not noticing or saying anything--and that is a stretch. You probably need a pro to come in and diagnose.
Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone
Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone
On Saturday, September 16, 2017, 5:21 PM, bigmikechen@yahoo.com [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
The vent for our central fan/A.C. in our downstairs began dripping--a slow drip. Immediately above it is our master bathroom and shower.I went upstairs and saw the floor by the master bathroom had flooded about a 1/2". It was last used about three hours ago and there was no water pooling at the time. I shut off the water, drained the tank, and mopped everything up with towels. As I did that, I noticed a tear/raise in the linoleum in that corner.The dripping stopped. It also notably did NOT smell like toilet.A few months ago, during a heat wave, that bathroom had previously flooded. I mopped it up and when the heat corrected it was totally fine.So I think the problem tracks like this:Something causes the toilet tank to leak.The leak pools in the back left corner where there is a tear/raise in the linoleum.The water travels into the floor and somehow gets in the vent.The vent drips out to us.Variables - I doubt these are involved but worth noting. 1) a week ago I went into the attic above the bathroom and looked at the furnace blower. I don't think there's any piping there but still. 2) I was digging up weeds in our backyard which has some piping to sprinklers. It's the end of the line and a different line, plus I didn't think I hit anything but still worth noting.Questions:1) What are the chances of mold?2) Is it safe to turn on the AC/vent? Would that actually help the drying process?3) Should we call our home insurance and just pay the deductible?4) Is this a "get a plumber in there ASAP" issue or is this something that can wait a few days?
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Posted by: Kraig Nadjkovic <nadj_a_nator@yahoo.com>
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Re: [DIY] Leak from upstairs toilet to ceiling AC vent
Are you sure the water is from INSIDE the vent, as opposed to using the opening as an outlet for water that's found its way inside the ceiling? If so there is a serious problem and the ductwork needs to be worked on. But first ...
Check all the seals on the toilet. Is the toilet wet behind the bowl (that's the tank to bowl gasket)? Are the bolts holding the tank onto the bowl wet (the screws are no longer tight enough to seal the water out)? Does water spray out of the hose connecting the valve to the toilet (that would be constant and most likely dripping)? Check the little hose inside the tank - if it got disconnected, then you might have water spraying out of it (I don't know how it happens as there is a lid, but water can spray out if that hose is loose). If the entire bottom half of the tank is wet with condensation, then you have a totally different problem. In that case, you can be guaranteed that the hole in the floor has been leaking for a while.
The sudden appearance of that much water leads me to believe that either there is a gasket leak from toilet or you live in a high humidity location and have a lot of condensation. If it's condensation then the leak in the floor is really small and you really should remove the floor and air it out before repairs. At this point, seriously consider the insurance - depending on your deductible.
If it's condensation, you have two main remedies: warm the water in the tank or dry the air in the bathroom. In some cases, I've had really cold water coming in from the street and had to add a connection to mix hot water with the water going in to the tank. I added a valve on both sides but the one on the hot was especially useful to stop using the hot water when it was no longer needed. Doing this connection won't be easy on a second floor toilet.
But right now, you need to find the source of that water.
From: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of bigmikechen@yahoo.com [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2017 5:21 PM
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DIY] Leak from upstairs toilet to ceiling AC vent
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2017 5:21 PM
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DIY] Leak from upstairs toilet to ceiling AC vent
The vent for our central fan/A.C. in our downstairs began dripping--a slow drip. Immediately above it is our master bathroom and shower.
I went upstairs and saw the floor by the master bathroom had flooded about a 1/2". It was last used about three hours ago and there was no water pooling at the time. I shut off the water, drained the tank, and mopped everything up with towels. As I did that, I noticed a tear/raise in the linoleum in that corner.
The dripping stopped. It also notably did NOT smell like toilet.
A few months ago, during a heat wave, that bathroom had previously flooded. I mopped it up and when the heat corrected it was totally fine.
So I think the problem tracks like this:
Something causes the toilet tank to leak.
The leak pools in the back left corner where there is a tear/raise in the linoleum.
The water travels into the floor and somehow gets in the vent.
The vent drips out to us.
Variables - I doubt these are involved but worth noting. 1) a week ago I went into the attic above the bathroom and looked at the furnace blower. I don't think there's any piping there but still. 2) I was digging up weeds in our backyard which has some piping to sprinklers. It's the end of the line and a different line, plus I didn't think I hit anything but still worth noting.
Questions:
1) What are the chances of mold?
2) Is it safe to turn on the AC/vent? Would that actually help the drying process?
3) Should we call our home insurance and just pay the deductible?
4) Is this a "get a plumber in there ASAP" issue or is this something that can wait a few days?
__._,_.___
Posted by: Ron Johnson <l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com>
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Please send decorating questions to Interior Motives List - to subscribe send an email to: Interior_Motives-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
.
__,_._,___
[DIY] Leak from upstairs toilet to ceiling AC vent
The vent for our central fan/A.C. in our downstairs began dripping--a slow drip. Immediately above it is our master bathroom and shower.
I went upstairs and saw the floor by the master bathroom had flooded about a 1/2". It was last used about three hours ago and there was no water pooling at the time. I shut off the water, drained the tank, and mopped everything up with towels. As I did that, I noticed a tear/raise in the linoleum in that corner.
The dripping stopped. It also notably did NOT smell like toilet.
A few months ago, during a heat wave, that bathroom had previously flooded. I mopped it up and when the heat corrected it was totally fine.
So I think the problem tracks like this:
Something causes the toilet tank to leak.
The leak pools in the back left corner where there is a tear/raise in the linoleum.
The water travels into the floor and somehow gets in the vent.
The vent drips out to us.
Variables - I doubt these are involved but worth noting. 1) a week ago I went into the attic above the bathroom and looked at the furnace blower. I don't think there's any piping there but still. 2) I was digging up weeds in our backyard which has some piping to sprinklers. It's the end of the line and a different line, plus I didn't think I hit anything but still worth noting.
Questions:
1) What are the chances of mold?
2) Is it safe to turn on the AC/vent? Would that actually help the drying process?
3) Should we call our home insurance and just pay the deductible?
4) Is this a "get a plumber in there ASAP" issue or is this something that can wait a few days?
__._,_.___
Posted by: bigmikechen@yahoo.com
| Reply via web post | • | Reply to sender | • | Reply to group | • | Start a New Topic | • | Messages in this topic (1) |
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[DIY] Re: "Leaky" sprayer
I had that issue but found that the connection to the spout was dripping a bit. I called the manufacturer and with a lifetime warranty, they sent replacement parts. I installed the faucet seven years ago.
Before receiving the replacement parts, a new hose and spout, I use Xtreme tape and it worked but the spout then would not fit completely back into the stem. I am thinking of replacing the Faucet with one that has a high arch spout. So the water drains down into the sink rather than back down the spout. Hope that makes sense.
---In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, <l0c0l0b0@...> wrote :
I was able to solve the problem. Not exactly ideal, but it doesn't leak anymore. Because the hose had a snap-on connecction, I had to cut the hose to the sprayer and put a 3/8" brass barbed adapter with a plug on the end. Yes, there was a hose clamp involved. I changed the aerator for one of those spray/stream fixtures on the spout.
If I couldn't get the hose sealed, I was prepared to change the entire faucet. About $150 cost. The main thing is that it doesn't leak.
From: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of Ron Johnson l0c0l0b0@... [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, September 4, 2017 6:35 PM
To: YahooGroup DIY
Subject: [DIY] "Leaky" sprayer
Sent: Monday, September 4, 2017 6:35 PM
To: YahooGroup DIY
Subject: [DIY] "Leaky" sprayer
I've had a situation for some time and it's really irritating me. The sprayer on the kitchen faucet, a wonderful little thing, has a major flaw. If you have wet hands when you grab it or put it back into it's cradle, water from your hands runs down the hose and drips under the sink. I don't remember them having that problem when they first came out - I think they had something in the cradle designed to prevent it.
Does anyone know what can be done to keep the water from flowing down the tube? I'm getting to the point where I'm seriously considering replacing them with a faucet that has a sprayer as part of the spout. With 24 units, that's a cost I'd like to avoid, if possible.
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Posted by: genoman45@yahoo.com
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[DIY] Re: Suggestions for repairing broken rocker
On my computer I can't view your pictures - also I am not an expert.
My wife "saves" old chairs. She expects me to fix them to the point where she can clean them and remove various layers of finish. Here are my thoughts on basic repairs.
My first thought is to through the chair in the trash or burn it - but that decision is not made at my level if I plan on living a long life.
Often the chair is out of alignment and to fix that issue is a crap shoot, as often aligning the chair more cracks develop. Be careful - also, a little out of alignment might not be noticed by your wife and others.
For rails and stiles that have pulled loose, often the fix is to remove any dowels, sometimes drill them out and if the rail has a dowel end that is usually damaged, cut it off. Then make or buy new dowels from a hardwood like oak or maple - carefully drill new holes in the stiles and rail that snugly fit the dowl. Then clean out the hole and use Titebond III on either the style or the rail dowel. Let it dry for a few hours, before assembling the chair further. For cracks or splinters that are showing, I use a thin CA glue - just a few drops on the edge that will allow the thin CA to penetrate and then immediately push the crack or splint together using hand pressure and apply the CA accelerator. It takes just a few seconds to set.
Now to put the chair together. First using a Titebond III type product, you have eight minutes before the glue sets up. Other products set even faster. Not a good thing when you are putting a chair together. Also in order to have a great wood glue work, the surfaces must be cleaned of dirt, paint or varnish - wood glue works well with raw wood. I have tried and sometimes use a longer setting wood glue like Extended Titebond II but it is very runny and the runs must be removed - best to sand the runs after it sets for a day. The extended wood glue provides about 15 minutes assembly time. Often if you plan ahead, you can rig up a rope or banding that will work as a clamp. Let the chair sit undisturbed for 10 hours or so.
If the assembly can work in sections that is best but most often the parts must be assembled together in order to fit. Have a plan and the materials organized then work as fast as you can. Wood glue is best, however, I have used epoxy on a dowel that fits loosely. Wood glue does not fill gaps and actually, neither does CA glue but that view is in dispute. Epoxy does fill small gaps. I usually use Harbor Freight epoxy that comes in two small tubes for $1.99 on sale but it is usually on sale. There are other types at hardware stores that I have not used.
Again, to me fixing a major damaged old chair is not worth it.
If I had to remove the finish with strippers, sanding, TSP and then apply the paint or stain and poly - I would rebel and throw the chair in the trash or wood bin. My wife does that!
Just my take - fixed about 10 chairs while my wife finishes them - most come out looking great - often the combined time spent on just one chair is 20 hours or more.
Gene
---In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, <westande@...> wrote :
My front porch rocker somehow got broken after the painters came :/. All the spokes and arm rest have been torn out and the rocker is certainly not safe to sit on. I am really not sure how to go about fixing this without taking the whole thing apart.
For the arm rest I figured I could put a small bracing piece of wood on the top and bottom.
The remaining spokes and seat I am at a loss as to how to fix them. It may not be very obvious from the picture but where the screws were attached the spokes have completely split the wood.
Is there any easy way to fix this?
Ande
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Posted by: genoman45@yahoo.com
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