Re: [DIY] Dryer wire (internal)

 

If it isn't arcing and sparking I'd leave well enough alone, however if replacing the wires will make you feel better, 12ga THHN stranded wire will do the trick and you can probably get a short piece from your local friendly electrician.  Your greatest need is the two connectors and the cheap auto store variety will not do.  You need good preferably stainless steel connectors and make sure you have a good crimp.  Notice "tongue and notch" in photo.

Dale in the Flatlands. "Why waste time learning when ignorance is instantaneous."

subprong wrote:

 

Hey gang.  Dryer stopped working.  I checked for continuity on the non-resetable thermal fuse and the connection was open.  I replaced that and did a good cleaning of the lint and stuff.  It's working again.

While checking out the back I noticed that the wiring to the elements weren't looking to good.  Black near the leads.  The metal ends look a bit corroded.  I can upload a photo if someone can tell me whether it's okay or should be replaced. 

So, I was thinking about replacing them but upon further investigation in terms of the part list and some videos it looks like these types of wires are not replace but rather patched/spliced.

Any idea of a common store to get this type of wiring?  I'd prefer not to pay $9 for a patch of wire and a wire nut (as Sears would like to charge).

Also, any idea what this type of wiring is called (terminal wire?) and what gauge it is?  The guy in this video (link below) states 12 gauge.  I should have checked the wiring itself when I had the back open to replace the thermal fuse but forgot.

http://www.appliancevideo.com/1134/heating-element-wire-kit-replacement-whirlpool-dryer-part-279457/

Thanks.

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[DIY] Dryer wire (internal)

 

Hey gang.  Dryer stopped working.  I checked for continuity on the non-resetable thermal fuse and the connection was open.  I replaced that and did a good cleaning of the lint and stuff.  It's working again.

While checking out the back I noticed that the wiring to the elements weren't looking to good.  Black near the leads.  The metal ends look a bit corroded.  I can upload a photo if someone can tell me whether it's okay or should be replaced. 

So, I was thinking about replacing them but upon further investigation in terms of the part list and some videos it looks like these types of wires are not replace but rather patched/spliced.

Any idea of a common store to get this type of wiring?  I'd prefer not to pay $9 for a patch of wire and a wire nut (as Sears would like to charge).

Also, any idea what this type of wiring is called (terminal wire?) and what gauge it is?  The guy in this video (link below) states 12 gauge.  I should have checked the wiring itself when I had the back open to replace the thermal fuse but forgot.

http://www.appliancevideo.com/1134/heating-element-wire-kit-replacement-whirlpool-dryer-part-279457/

Thanks.

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Re: [DIY] heat tape?? pcv pipe

 

ahh sorry'

ill get dictionary out next time

On Wednesday, January 29, 2014 5:24 PM, R Bynum <bynumo2000@yahoo.com> wrote:

 

Not trying to be a smart @ZZ, just trying to be informative but it's PVC (polyvinyl-chloride).
PCV refers to the pollution control valve on your car's engine, or a pressure control valve in a piping system.

Rich, in the real flatlands

On 1/29/2014 12:56 PM, tremor901guy@yahoo.com wrote:

this has problem kicked around some where in here I aint got time I got water drainage problems pipes frozen here the pipe comes from washer and dishwasher goes to main line or could I be just chasing a clog around is it possible to heat tape on pipe its pcv . im not sure or galvanized don't really wanted crawl under housed no basement  

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Re: [DIY] heat tape?? pcv pipe

 

Not trying to be a smart @ZZ, just trying to be informative but it's PVC (polyvinyl-chloride).
PCV refers to the pollution control valve on your car's engine, or a pressure control valve in a piping system.

Rich, in the real flatlands

On 1/29/2014 12:56 PM, tremor901guy@yahoo.com wrote:

this has problem kicked around some where in here I aint got time I got water drainage problems pipes frozen here the pipe comes from washer and dishwasher goes to main line or could I be just chasing a clog around is it possible to heat tape on pipe its pcv . im not sure or galvanized don't really wanted crawl under housed no basement  

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Re: [DIY] heat tape?? pcv pipe

 

Just had a problem with that, tremor. Hot water line froze no hot water, cold water ok. Big block of ice (trailer) around the drip from hot water line outside, freezing up the hot water line. A drip from the line, but it's not broken. Yet. Heat tape is corroded and needs new heat tape. Water froze up outside, line didn't break yet, but the water isn't coming through the hot water line.

Misery loves company, probably nothing I said helped, but it is clear that we need new heat tape and the job is not a real good one.

From: "tremor901guy@yahoo.com" <tremor901guy@yahoo.com>
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2014 1:56 PM
Subject: [DIY] heat tape?? pcv pipe

 

this has problem kicked around some where in here I aint got time I got water drainage problems pipes frozen here the pipe comes from washer and dishwasher goes to main line or could I be just chasing a clog around is it possible to heat tape on pipe its pcv . im not sure or galvanized don't really wanted crawl under housed no basement  

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Re: [DIY] heat tape?? pcv pipe

 

There should not be standing water that can freeze in a drain line
(except the trap).

Things to investigate/try.

Pour some anti-freeze into drain between uses.
Check/inspect that drain line is properly supported and does not
sag, thus creating locations of standing water and possible freeze locations.
investigate a clog, snake or other mechanical pipe cleaning.
Tree roots getting into pipes.

Putting heat tape on drain (other than on trap that might be in exposed crawl space) would be counter productive.  If you go that route, perhaps try to insulate the pipe/trap, but make sure it has even consistent slope for proper drainage first.

I've lived in a house that had some uneven settling over time and the drainpipe went up and down, causing some of these problems, and allowing solids to partial fill the drain pipe.

Dave

On 1/29/14, 10:56 AM, tremor901guy@yahoo.com wrote:

this has problem kicked around some where in here I aint got time I got water drainage problems pipes frozen here the pipe comes from washer and dishwasher goes to main line or could I be just chasing a clog around is it possible to heat tape on pipe its pcv . im not sure or galvanized don't really wanted crawl under housed no basement  

--   Dave Uebele (daveu@sptddog.com)  

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[DIY] heat tape?? pcv pipe

 

this has problem kicked around some where in here I aint got time I got water drainage problems pipes frozen here the pipe comes from washer and dishwasher goes to main line or could I be just chasing a clog around is it possible to heat tape on pipe its pcv . im not sure or galvanized don't really wanted crawl under housed no basement  

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Re: [DIY] Re: High gas boiler CO

 

If it were LPG the jets would in fact be smaller as LPG is delivered as a higher pressure to the unit.  You can GOOGLE gas orifice charts an find the opening vs BTU for natural gas and LPG units to see the difference.

Dale in the Flatlands. "Why waste time learning when ignorance is instantaneous."

Terry wrote:

 

Is there a chance that this was a LPG unit that someone (originally, maybe without permits) connected to Nat.Gas?
 Knowing that LPG has a lower BTU rating, I (assume) it uses larger jets?

Terry
thenne1713@aol.com

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[DIY] Re: High gas boiler CO

 

Is there a chance that this was a LPG unit that someone (originally, maybe without permits) connected to Nat.Gas?
 Knowing that LPG has a lower BTU rating, I (assume) it uses larger jets?

Terry
thenne1713@aol.com

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[DIY] RE: High gas boiler CO

 

A gas flame needs to be blue.  A yellow flame is oxygen deprived. There is probably an adjustable "butterfly" cover over the burner end where the orifice is that can be opened to get morte air in.  However, I can't believe the other 2 people did not address this issue.

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Re: [DIY] Re: MULTIPLAZ 3500

 

The initial price is the real draw back, but I suspect with time limits on patents that will change.

Dale in the Flatlands. "Why waste time learning when ignorance is instantaneous."

Ray Kornele wrote:

 

Sounds good Dale. I'm sure this will become a very popular tool, as soon as  DIYers find out its useful.

KrazyKyngeKorny (Krazy, not stupid)

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Re: [DIY] High gas boiler CO

 

I suppose it is possible that the orifices are too large in which case it has in all probability been this way since originally installed.
Not necessarily. Gas is abrasive (slightly). Over time it can open orfices enough to cauise problems.

KrazyKyngeKorny (Krazy, not stupid)

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[DIY] Re: High gas boiler CO

 

I was responsible for three boilers at a nursery. One developed high CO and low efficiency. The man from the gas company fixed the problem.

The burner had developed rust causing the burner orifices to be too small. He took a drill bit of the proper size to remove the rust, opening the burner. Efficiency went from 67% to 98%.

You also need to be sure air regulator on the burner is free of lint. Lint can be sucked up by a sudden draft, so this problem can occur suddenly.

KrazyKyngeKorny (Krazy, not stupid)

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