In another post you mentioned drywall.
My understanding is that drywall does not do
well with cold moist (recollection from talking to builders,
the drywall does not go up (and get taped) until the heating
system is functional. Partially that could be to facilitate
the curing of the drywall compound, but could be other issues.
The mix of building materials in modern houses can cause
issues. They all have their own expansion/contraction rates
due to temperature. There was a similar issue with installing
wood flooring, waiting until heating was functional (and in
fact the flooring staying in the house a couple days prior
to installation to adjust to the interior "climate".
An older, "loose" cabin might be able to breath or flex with
these changes (and was drafty to begin), but a more modern
"tighter" house with more mix of building materials may suffer more
from these temperature swings.
It sounds like you are leaning toward the relatively cheap
insurance of keeping it at least a little warm. (I'd still plan
on draining the water system in case power goes out during a
cold snap), but probably keeping thermostats just above freezing is
a good idea.
dave
On 1/15/14, 9:30 AM, Mountain Master wrote:
My understanding is that drywall does not do
well with cold moist (recollection from talking to builders,
the drywall does not go up (and get taped) until the heating
system is functional. Partially that could be to facilitate
the curing of the drywall compound, but could be other issues.
The mix of building materials in modern houses can cause
issues. They all have their own expansion/contraction rates
due to temperature. There was a similar issue with installing
wood flooring, waiting until heating was functional (and in
fact the flooring staying in the house a couple days prior
to installation to adjust to the interior "climate".
An older, "loose" cabin might be able to breath or flex with
these changes (and was drafty to begin), but a more modern
"tighter" house with more mix of building materials may suffer more
from these temperature swings.
It sounds like you are leaning toward the relatively cheap
insurance of keeping it at least a little warm. (I'd still plan
on draining the water system in case power goes out during a
cold snap), but probably keeping thermostats just above freezing is
a good idea.
dave
On 1/15/14, 9:30 AM, Mountain Master wrote:
Well....so far one great viewpoint to turn the heat off
and another great point citing preventable damage
by keeping heat on..which was my first thought that
at least keeping wood, windows, dry-wall..warm above
freezing by leaving heater set at 34 might be wise...
But both points are well taken...any other experiences?
And are we are we are we sure the damage to the
walls was due to lack of heat, or moisture that would
have been present with or without the heat? I know the
relative humidity would change with hear..but you said
he closed off rooms even when occupied..I do that as
well in the Sierra cabin for 10 years..and no damge to
that bedroom...
So again it is a conundrum...to be heated or not to heat
is still the question for winterizng...in the end it costs
me about $250 or so to keep house at 34 deg F during
the Oct-March heating season..it may spike at $4-500
if it stays very cold ...but house is south facing great
exposure so it does heat up during the sunny days..
but if damage was really caused by lack of heat than
even $500 to heat is cheap compared to potential
repairs costs....especially labor even if DIY...
Rich and Kate
-- Dave Uebele (daveu@sptddog.com)
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