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30 April 2017
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28 April 2017
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26 April 2017
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24 April 2017
[DIY] Re: Protect Wire through opening
Chase nipple - thank you.
I knew that term once. And you could pull it up from my description!!
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TotaTua
Claudia Satori
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Posted by: ClaudSat <claudsat@roadrunner.com>
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23 April 2017
Re: [DIY] Protect Wire through opening
You need a chase nipple from the electrical dept. There are plastic ones, but I would use a metal one 1 1/2" size with a locknut and plastic bushing on the threaded side (the other side is a smooth flange and needs nothing).
On Saturday, April 22, 2017 9:50 PM, "ClaudSat claudsat@roadrunner.com [DoIt_Yourself]" <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
I am putting an extension through an opening at bottom of cement board "door". I need to protect the wire from the "door". There will two extension cords going thru. I have seen a plastic upside down double u but WHAT IS IT CALLED?
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TotaTua
Claudia Satori
Sent from my iPhone
TotaTua
Claudia Satori
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Posted by: David Cox <dcwired@att.net>
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[DIY] Protect Wire through opening
I am putting an extension through an opening at bottom of cement board "door". I need to protect the wire from the "door". There will two extension cords going thru. I have seen a plastic upside down double u but WHAT IS IT CALLED?
Sent from my iPhone
TotaTua
Claudia Satori
__._,_.___
Posted by: ClaudSat <claudsat@roadrunner.com>
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[DIY] new siding
California old house with little to no insulation and old beat up siding has to be refaced with new siding and proper insullation/tyvec, etc.
I was wondering about a couple of things, when the outside skin is also the sheer wall, can it go on directly on top of the vapor barrier or is does it need to be separated by a small gap to let moisture drain out.
Another question I have is the bottom edge of the first row, does it have to sit on a galvanized drip edge flashing?
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Posted by: stratmister@gmail.com
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22 April 2017
[DIY] Re: Dumb plumbing question
In Kitchen and bath drains/ traps, there are ONLY TWO STANDARD sizes: a) Kitchen is 1-1/2", and b) Bath is 1-1/4". **** Experience has taught me THREE major things about sink drains: 1) EASIEST is to take ALL old parts with you, and it will save you 2-3-4+ EXTRA trips back to the hardware store, (or you buy every possible option, which is still much cheaper than a plumber, LOL); 
*** (then, the one the store was out of was the one you needed :-(
2) For drains, especially in a cabinet, or porcelain post, USE WHITE PVC drain pipes. The PVC requires NO TOOLS TO ASSEMBLE ** (unlike chrome), and in 50+ years, I have ONLY had one leak (10 yr/old washer snapped). Additional advantage of PVC is easy disassembly/ reassembly if ring/ jewelry dropped, or hair clogged ** (If something leaks in PVC drain), disassemble and inspect for a taper on the compression washer matching to the taper on the pipe... most likely washer in backwards, causing the leak. If you put pliers/ wrench on PVC to fix a leak, be prepared to replace it, because something will break that was not broke 
*** Experience has taught me that not every wall drain outlet pipe height is the same, (i.e. no standard) which can lead to a conglomeration of tailpieces/ lengths, and can prevent use of a popup, as example, if too high (i.e. cannot squeeze the popup into the height available). If wall outlet is abnormally low, you can buy longer tailpieces to move the trap down. If tailpiece is too short, it creates problems, so buy long enough or too long and cut to custom length, (easy w/ a hacksaw, esp. on PVC, much more difficult w/ chrome metal/ brass) (ONLY about 3 options in most stores on tailpiece length) **** (SOME "DRAIN KITS" come with an extra whitish plastic washer that will connect PVC1-1/2 trap to a PVC1-1/4 pipe')
3) WALL OUTLET PIPE connections can also be a nightmare, with the selections of options/ mis-applications and flubbed original installations. If you make a 1-time easy, leak free connection to the wall, you were EXTREMELY LUCKY, LOL. PLAN ON REMOVING THE VANITY, AND HOPE YOU DO NOT HAVE TO.... BUT, BOTTOM LINE, you want a dry, leak free plumbing supply and drain when you finish... no slow leaks that eat out the floor/ wall and invite mold/ rot/ termites :-) The pipe in the wall (should be) 2-inch for kitchen or bath, then you have to convert to either 1-1/2 or 1-1/4 drains... 
exceptions should not, but can apply
p.s. I live in a house built in 1938, and have been here since 1950... so I know from experience 
<<
Fri Apr 21, 2017 11:32 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"oakridgefarm@gmail.com" janflood421
Popup drain in bathroom sink stopped working - 20 years old - non-repairable. I want to get a popup stopper that just sets in similar to this one on amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M8JW9GA?th=1 <https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M8JW9GA?th=1>; Fits vessel sink or bathroom vanity sink with minimum drain hole diameter of 1 3/5" ,Standard sized US plumbing
As near as I can tell using a metal tape, the drain opening is 1⅜" with the actual drain pipe a hair smaller. Would the above item fit? I don't want to bother ordering something that won't fit but it's impossible to get to the plumbing under the sink without removing the vanity. I'm more concerned about items falling down the drain that I am in keeping water in the sink. For what it's worth, the threads on the old one, where you would screw on the top piece, wasn't high enough to allow water to drain properly, even in the open position. The appraiser had noted a slow draining sink, recommended cleaning it out, but it was actually the old mechanism.
Thanks!
Jan Flood
oakridgefarm@gmail.com
Terry
thenne1713@aol.com
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Posted by: Terry <thenne1713@aol.com>
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