Re: [DIY] Painting Red Oak

i hate that also.

On Oct 30, 2013, at 04:36 PM, Dale S <dalu@hbcomm.net> wrote:

 

I usually leave my compressor turned all the way up at about 120 psi.  Don't know as this is best for the guns but I've yet to blow one up.  I hate it when low pressure causes a nail be only partially driven home.

Dale in the Flatlands. "Why waste time learning when ignorance is instantaneous."

Frank Ruggiero wrote:

i do have a nail gun with a compressor. would you know what ppi pressure i should use to nail it to the wall?

i could not find any other material that was cheaper than red oak. what is this molding supposed to be made of if you paint it?

On Oct 30, 2013, at 04:14 PM, Dale S <dalu@hbcomm.net> wrote:

 

I hope you have an air nailer or you might be talking to yourself by the time you finish nailing that red oak by hand.  If you must nail by hand I recommend pre-drilling your nail holes.

Dale in the Flatlands. "Why waste time learning when ignorance is instantaneous."

Frank Ruggiero wrote:

Hi Experts,

Im planning on installing quarter round shoe molding on top of my floor. The molding is made of Red Oak. My question is this: Must I prime the wood before painting it white? Or is priming a must in this case?

Any info would be great.

Thank you.

Frank

Re: [DIY] Painting Red Oak

 

I usually leave my compressor turned all the way up at about 120 psi.  Don't know as this is best for the guns but I've yet to blow one up.  I hate it when low pressure causes a nail be only partially driven home.

Dale in the Flatlands. "Why waste time learning when ignorance is instantaneous."

Frank Ruggiero wrote:

i do have a nail gun with a compressor. would you know what ppi pressure i should use to nail it to the wall?

i could not find any other material that was cheaper than red oak. what is this molding supposed to be made of if you paint it?

On Oct 30, 2013, at 04:14 PM, Dale S <dalu@hbcomm.net> wrote:

 

I hope you have an air nailer or you might be talking to yourself by the time you finish nailing that red oak by hand.  If you must nail by hand I recommend pre-drilling your nail holes.

Dale in the Flatlands. "Why waste time learning when ignorance is instantaneous."

Frank Ruggiero wrote:

Hi Experts,

Im planning on installing quarter round shoe molding on top of my floor. The molding is made of Red Oak. My question is this: Must I prime the wood before painting it white? Or is priming a must in this case?

Any info would be great.

Thank you.

Frank

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Re: [DIY] Painting Red Oak

i do have a nail gun with a compressor. would you know what ppi pressure i should use to nail it to the wall?

i could not find any other material that was cheaper than red oak. what is this molding supposed to be made of if you paint it?

On Oct 30, 2013, at 04:14 PM, Dale S <dalu@hbcomm.net> wrote:

 

I hope you have an air nailer or you might be talking to yourself by the time you finish nailing that red oak by hand.  If you must nail by hand I recommend pre-drilling your nail holes.

Dale in the Flatlands. "Why waste time learning when ignorance is instantaneous."

Frank Ruggiero wrote:

Hi Experts,

Im planning on installing quarter round shoe molding on top of my floor. The molding is made of Red Oak. My question is this: Must I prime the wood before painting it white? Or is priming a must in this case?

Any info would be great.

Thank you.

Frank

Re: [DIY] Painting Red Oak

 

I hope you have an air nailer or you might be talking to yourself by the time you finish nailing that red oak by hand.  If you must nail by hand I recommend pre-drilling your nail holes.

Dale in the Flatlands. "Why waste time learning when ignorance is instantaneous."

Frank Ruggiero wrote:

Hi Experts,

Im planning on installing quarter round shoe molding on top of my floor. The molding is made of Red Oak. My question is this: Must I prime the wood before painting it white? Or is priming a must in this case?

Any info would be great.

Thank you.

Frank

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[DIY] Painting Red Oak

Hi Experts,

Im planning on installing quarter round shoe molding on top of my floor. The molding is made of Red Oak. My question is this: Must I prime the wood before painting it white? Or is priming a must in this case?

Any info would be great.

Thank you.

Frank

Re: [DIY] Washer hose leaking

 

always turn off the breaker before working on an electric water heater-leaving it on with no water in the heater will burn out the elements, the yellow case/yellow tape is used on natural or propane gas fittings. ball valves are easier to use as they only require 1/4 turn for on/off operation and cost about the same

On Wednesday, October 30, 2013 8:35 AM, Aki <01dyna@gmail.com> wrote:

 

if the hose bib itself isn't leaking at the connector, you may be able to just replace the wheel (handle) and inner assembly.  Most hardware stores sell that as a kit.  It'll save you the hassle of completely removing the entire hose bib.

-aki

On Wed, Oct 30, 2013 at 8:27 AM, Ron Johnson <l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com> wrote:

 

Breaks like this usually happen because years ago, someone opened up the valve all the way and added a little oomph. In time, this "rusted open" and, if you had been able to close it, it would most likely have leaked.  Never turn hose bibs on all the way - go all the way then back a half turn: this prevents seizing up from happening.
 
Yes, you should replace the hose bibb.  In this case, it sounds like they are old and I would replace both hot and cold at the same time.   If you don't do it now, you'll have to do it when you really can't afford the time nor the money.  I know ... it happens to me a lot.
 
But ...
 
You can turn off the hot water only by shutting off the valve at the water heater, releasing the pressure at a sink, then you remove the hose with only a little water spilling out.  You really don't need any tape or goop on the hose end as long as you have a washer - most new hoses come with a washer for both ends tie-wrapped to it. 
 
If and when you replace the hose bibbs, it's a good idea to use tape AND the Teflon goop.  I used to use one or the other and found out that using both reduced any leaks when I needed to have the fixture in a certain position.  Of couse, you can change the hose bibb to a gate valve - it's a little more expensive but it's easier and faster to shut off when there is an emergency.
 
Another thing ... when you replace a water heater, it's a good idea to have a valve at both the incoming cold and the outgoing hot lines.  That way when you later have to replace or work on the heater, you can shut off the hot side and not drain it from the house, leaving that much less water to need to fill the lines.  I know that sounds like I'm pinching pennies, but in reality, that save time - you don't have to empty the lines, and refill them afterwards, which might break off some rust in galvanized pipes plugging up aerators or, if big enough, the valves themselves.  This is more important with larger houses and multi-unit complexes using the same heater.
 

To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
From: subprong@gmail.com
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 01:52:33 -0600
Subject: [DIY] Washer hose leaking

 

Hi all.  The washing machine hose has sprung a leak in the rubber part.  The hot water line runs to a hose bib, then connects to this hose and then the hose connects to the inlet on the washer.

I tried to turn off the spigot to cut the water off to stop the leak.  It did not turn.  I tried a little extra oomph with a wrench and the spigot turn wheel broke right off.

I know the correct thing to do would be to replace the whole spigot along with the hose. ...but if for now I replace the hose without replacing the spigot, do you foresee any problems?

Hose replacement.  Do I need to add teflon tape or putty to the spigot as well as the washer inlet connection.  If so, what kind for hot water?  I think I have the tape with yellow case.  Should I look for a specific type of durable hose?  This will be for hot water and the washing machine is not in a control temp environment.

Spigot replacement.  Should I replace that, do I need to use any special tape or putty on that?  I'm a little weary on replacing it.  If the turn wheel was seized up then I wonder if the whole bib will be.

Thanks for any help.

 

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Re: [DIY] Washer hose leaking

 

if the hose bib itself isn't leaking at the connector, you may be able to just replace the wheel (handle) and inner assembly.  Most hardware stores sell that as a kit.  It'll save you the hassle of completely removing the entire hose bib.

-aki

On Wed, Oct 30, 2013 at 8:27 AM, Ron Johnson <l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com> wrote:

 

Breaks like this usually happen because years ago, someone opened up the valve all the way and added a little oomph. In time, this "rusted open" and, if you had been able to close it, it would most likely have leaked.  Never turn hose bibs on all the way - go all the way then back a half turn: this prevents seizing up from happening.
 
Yes, you should replace the hose bibb.  In this case, it sounds like they are old and I would replace both hot and cold at the same time.   If you don't do it now, you'll have to do it when you really can't afford the time nor the money.  I know ... it happens to me a lot.
 
But ...
 
You can turn off the hot water only by shutting off the valve at the water heater, releasing the pressure at a sink, then you remove the hose with only a little water spilling out.  You really don't need any tape or goop on the hose end as long as you have a washer - most new hoses come with a washer for both ends tie-wrapped to it. 
 
If and when you replace the hose bibbs, it's a good idea to use tape AND the Teflon goop.  I used to use one or the other and found out that using both reduced any leaks when I needed to have the fixture in a certain position.  Of couse, you can change the hose bibb to a gate valve - it's a little more expensive but it's easier and faster to shut off when there is an emergency.
 
Another thing ... when you replace a water heater, it's a good idea to have a valve at both the incoming cold and the outgoing hot lines.  That way when you later have to replace or work on the heater, you can shut off the hot side and not drain it from the house, leaving that much less water to need to fill the lines.  I know that sounds like I'm pinching pennies, but in reality, that save time - you don't have to empty the lines, and refill them afterwards, which might break off some rust in galvanized pipes plugging up aerators or, if big enough, the valves themselves.  This is more important with larger houses and multi-unit complexes using the same heater.
 

---

To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
From: subprong@gmail.com
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 01:52:33 -0600
Subject: [DIY] Washer hose leaking

 

Hi all.  The washing machine hose has sprung a leak in the rubber part.  The hot water line runs to a hose bib, then connects to this hose and then the hose connects to the inlet on the washer.

I tried to turn off the spigot to cut the water off to stop the leak.  It did not turn.  I tried a little extra oomph with a wrench and the spigot turn wheel broke right off.

I know the correct thing to do would be to replace the whole spigot along with the hose. ...but if for now I replace the hose without replacing the spigot, do you foresee any problems?

Hose replacement.  Do I need to add teflon tape or putty to the spigot as well as the washer inlet connection.  If so, what kind for hot water?  I think I have the tape with yellow case.  Should I look for a specific type of durable hose?  This will be for hot water and the washing machine is not in a control temp environment.

Spigot replacement.  Should I replace that, do I need to use any special tape or putty on that?  I'm a little weary on replacing it.  If the turn wheel was seized up then I wonder if the whole bib will be.

Thanks for any help.

 

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RE: [DIY] Washer hose leaking

 

Breaks like this usually happen because years ago, someone opened up the valve all the way and added a little oomph. In time, this "rusted open" and, if you had been able to close it, it would most likely have leaked.  Never turn hose bibs on all the way - go all the way then back a half turn: this prevents seizing up from happening.
 
Yes, you should replace the hose bibb.  In this case, it sounds like they are old and I would replace both hot and cold at the same time.   If you don't do it now, you'll have to do it when you really can't afford the time nor the money.  I know ... it happens to me a lot.
 
But ...
 
You can turn off the hot water only by shutting off the valve at the water heater, releasing the pressure at a sink, then you remove the hose with only a little water spilling out.  You really don't need any tape or goop on the hose end as long as you have a washer - most new hoses come with a washer for both ends tie-wrapped to it. 
 
If and when you replace the hose bibbs, it's a good idea to use tape AND the Teflon goop.  I used to use one or the other and found out that using both reduced any leaks when I needed to have the fixture in a certain position.  Of couse, you can change the hose bibb to a gate valve - it's a little more expensive but it's easier and faster to shut off when there is an emergency.
 
Another thing ... when you replace a water heater, it's a good idea to have a valve at both the incoming cold and the outgoing hot lines.  That way when you later have to replace or work on the heater, you can shut off the hot side and not drain it from the house, leaving that much less water to need to fill the lines.  I know that sounds like I'm pinching pennies, but in reality, that save time - you don't have to empty the lines, and refill them afterwards, which might break off some rust in galvanized pipes plugging up aerators or, if big enough, the valves themselves.  This is more important with larger houses and multi-unit complexes using the same heater.
 

---

To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
From: subprong@gmail.com
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 01:52:33 -0600
Subject: [DIY] Washer hose leaking

 

Hi all.  The washing machine hose has sprung a leak in the rubber part.  The hot water line runs to a hose bib, then connects to this hose and then the hose connects to the inlet on the washer.

I tried to turn off the spigot to cut the water off to stop the leak.  It did not turn.  I tried a little extra oomph with a wrench and the spigot turn wheel broke right off.

I know the correct thing to do would be to replace the whole spigot along with the hose. ...but if for now I replace the hose without replacing the spigot, do you foresee any problems?

Hose replacement.  Do I need to add teflon tape or putty to the spigot as well as the washer inlet connection.  If so, what kind for hot water?  I think I have the tape with yellow case.  Should I look for a specific type of durable hose?  This will be for hot water and the washing machine is not in a control temp environment.

Spigot replacement.  Should I replace that, do I need to use any special tape or putty on that?  I'm a little weary on replacing it.  If the turn wheel was seized up then I wonder if the whole bib will be.

Thanks for any help.

 

__._,_.___

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[DIY] Washer hose leaking

 

Hi all.  The washing machine hose has sprung a leak in the rubber part.  The hot water line runs to a hose bib, then connects to this hose and then the hose connects to the inlet on the washer.

I tried to turn off the spigot to cut the water off to stop the leak.  It did not turn.  I tried a little extra oomph with a wrench and the spigot turn wheel broke right off.

I know the correct thing to do would be to replace the whole spigot along with the hose. ...but if for now I replace the hose without replacing the spigot, do you foresee any problems?

Hose replacement.  Do I need to add teflon tape or putty to the spigot as well as the washer inlet connection.  If so, what kind for hot water?  I think I have the tape with yellow case.  Should I look for a specific type of durable hose?  This will be for hot water and the washing machine is not in a control temp environment.

Spigot replacement.  Should I replace that, do I need to use any special tape or putty on that?  I'm a little weary on replacing it.  If the turn wheel was seized up then I wonder if the whole bib will be.

Thanks for any help.

 

__._,_.___

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[DIY] Re: Kenmore side by side

 

Posted by: landmagget@yahoo.com

> Problem with refrigerator cooling, freezer is just fine.
> Cleaned coils but still not cooling correctly. The bottom
> of frig. seems to be cooling ok (36 degrees)

Hello (name??)

That is below normal temperature.

> but upper part is 56 degrees.
>Any suggestions how to correct?

It sounds like the circulation fan is not working.
That can be an inexpensive repair, if you do it.
I once did that repair for my parents refrigerator.
However, if yours is an older refrigerator, it likely
uses so much energy that you would do better to
replace it with a modern Energy Star Tier3 fridge
(30-35% better than standard). Get a top freezer
model, for efficiency.

-Laren Corie-
Natural Solar Building Design and
Solar Heating/Natural Cooling/Energy
Efficiency Consultation Since 1975
www.ThermalAttic.com (many new
photos and pages, coming soon)

Read my Solar house design articles in:
-Energy Self-Sufficiency Newsletter-
www.essnmag.com

Home base-LittleHouses YahooGroup
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/LittleHouses/

Founder-WoodGas - Power from wood
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WoodGas

Founder-RefrigeratorAlternatives YahooGroup
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RefrigeratorAlternatives

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[DIY] RE: Kenmore side by side

 

 Had similar problem...tech said to turn off frig for 24-36 hours

and leave door open.....I did for 36 hours...plugged back in

and worked fine...internal fluid/gas had to settle into proper

states and places.

Did you happen to tilt frig like in a move perhaps recently just before

problem started?

Rich

---In doit_yourself@yahoogroups.com, <landmagget@...> wrote:

Problem with refrigerator cooling, freezer is just fine. Cleaned coils but still not cooling correctly. The bottom of frig. seems to be cooling ok (36 degrees) but upper part is 56 degrees. Any suggestions how to correct?

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[DIY] Kenmore side by side

 

Problem with refrigerator cooling, freezer is just fine. Cleaned coils but still not cooling correctly. The bottom of frig. seems to be cooling ok (36 degrees) but upper part is 56 degrees. Any suggestions how to correct?

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[DIY] Re: Replacing refridgerator door handle

 

You can also check Youtube, sometimes detailed videos available

Terry
thenne1713@aol.com

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