Do it Yourself: Re: [DIY] Ripping on a table saw

16 October 2013

Re: [DIY] Ripping on a table saw

It's good that the guy in the video addressed the saw blade height. The higher the blade, the more likely the kickback (or kickup).

However, I disagree with his preferred height of 1/8-1/4". I do about 1/2" above the wood height. To me he left little room for any slight bowing of the wood or any accidental jumps in the wood while sliding or if the blade hits a knot. On cross cuts, things can get dicey if the piece is slightly undercut (thin layer of wood above the blade). Sometimes if there isn't a clean break, the weight of the piece will pinch the "cut" side back against the blade because it's still hanging on by a thin layer.

Not positive but I don't think he addressed blade kerf. The thinner the kerf on the blade, the easier it runs through the wood. They actually sell "rip" blades. These generally have a smaller kerf (thickness) and usually have fewer teeth. If I'm not mistaken he actually had one installed on his table saw. Looked like a Diablo rip blade.

Another thought is zero clearance throat plates (the plate surrounding the saw blade). The stock plate that came with the saw usually has a small gap on one side of the blade to allow the blade to maneuver when you angle the blade to bevel something. A zero clearance throat plate does not have that gap. There is minimal open area to the left and right of the blade. This is good for ripping (or crosscutting) very thin pieces of wood. With a normal throat plate, sometimes thin pieces will fall into that gap....or much worse will pinch the saw blade and either shoot out or jam your saw.

There are actually some crazy youtube videos of people purposefully creating kickbacks to show how powerful they can be.

Let us know how your bamboo floors turnout and how easy or difficult the install was.

On Tue, Oct 15, 2013 at 11:04 AM, Frank Ruggiero <frankruggiero@me.com> wrote:

Thanks for the info Subprong.

Im glad you sent me that link, as I realize a chickenfoot came with my saw. I can see how that would be very unstable. I am surprised they wold sell it with the saw. Very surprising.

On Oct 15, 2013, at 12:51 PM, subprong <subprong@gmail.com> wrote:

On my table saw I prefer to have slim pieces on the open side of the blade (not on the fence side). When possible it's safer to push the piece of material thru the saw via the piece between the blade and the fence and therefore the bigger the piece on that side the better and easier to do so imho.

Either way either build or get yourself a push stick.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uU-4p-X8AOg

On Tue, Oct 15, 2013 at 8:09 AM, Frank Ruggiero <frankruggiero@me.com> wrote:

Hi Table Saw experts.

A quick question regarding table saws. I will most likely need to rip some bamboo strips to become one half inch wide. Is it safe to have the piece that will be a half inch wide on the side of the blade that is opposite the fence? Or is it better to have that piece between the blade and the fence? I am trying to prevent any kickback and would like to know which is safer. Does this question make sense to you?

Thanks for your help.

Frank