Thank you for the info. Good to know about the molds. One less expense.
Any idea if using 3/8" plywood and tar paper beneath metal corrugated will reduce the heat at all as oppose to simply installing over joists and cross furring type strips?On Tue, Aug 5, 2014 at 4:09 PM, David Cox dcwired@att.net [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Unless you want to use it for a skylight or light on a patio, the plastic (fiberglass) will not last too long as it can shatter in a hail storm or very cold conditions. It will also turn yellow from sunlight.
The corrugated (1/2 round wavy type) can be installed directly over joists w/o any solid decking where flat type cannot.
Well, not too wide a spacing anyway. Use ring shank nails with washers nailed on the upper part of the ridges. They used to make lead washer nails, but now they are neoprene washer nails.
The molds are to seal out wind if that is a concern in your case. Looks better, too.Thanks for any tips.Also, are those corrugated molds used to support/seat the roofing actually necessary.What type of fasteners and any tips on installation.What's the best shape to get (rounded, flat, squared) or purposes of each.Does anyone have any experience or first hand knowledge about corrugated roofing? I've done a little reading on it but am also looking for personally experienced knowledge.Metal vs. Plastic.
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Posted by: subprong <subprong@gmail.com>
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