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31 December 2011

[DIY] Fireplace insert

 

The very first thing you need to do is have the chimney inspected/cleaned. You need to know if it is serviceable or if it needs repair or relining.

ck

 

-----Original Message-----

From: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Tori

Sent: Friday, December 30, 2011 6:03 PM

To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [DIY] Fireplace insert

 

Ive decided in order to heat a room, I should make use of the never used old fireplace by investing in a fireplace insert.  The question is: I've made calls to a company that inspects cleans and supplies stoves n inserts but Im not getting a straight answer on what I need to do.  Do I need to get the chimney inspected first and energy efficient ready? Or will that actually be resolved with the purchase of the insert and their sealing of the area.  To me, the insert is temporary so the next owner can use wood if they want so it seems I need to check out the usability of  the chimney first?  Also, in what case would one buy an insert from a big box store?  Of course safety is a concern. 

 

 

 

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Posted by at 10:04 0 comments

Re: [DIY] Fireplace insert

 

They will place an exhaust flue into your existing chimney that connects to the insert. I burn wood in my insert so I am not certain why you would want to plan for a new owner to burn wood by removing it unless you were wanting to use gas in your insert? Some areas of the country will only allow pellets or gas (propane) for air quality reasons. You might want to check this before choosing an insert.


-Lee

On Dec 30, 2011, at 4:03 PM, Tori wrote:

 

Ive decided in order to heat a room, I should make use of the never used old fireplace by investing in a fireplace insert. The question is: I've made calls to a company that inspects cleans and supplies stoves n inserts but Im not getting a straight answer on what I need to do. Do I need to get the chimney inspected first and energy efficient ready? Or will that actually be resolved with the purchase of the insert and their sealing of the area. To me, the insert is temporary so the next owner can use wood if they want so it seems I need to check out the usability of the chimney first? Also, in what case would one buy an insert from a big box store? Of course safety is a concern.


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Posted by at 08:18 0 comments

[DIY] Fireplace insert

 

Ive decided in order to heat a room, I should make use of the never used old fireplace by investing in a fireplace insert. The question is: I've made calls to a company that inspects cleans and supplies stoves n inserts but Im not getting a straight answer on what I need to do. Do I need to get the chimney inspected first and energy efficient ready? Or will that actually be resolved with the purchase of the insert and their sealing of the area. To me, the insert is temporary so the next owner can use wood if they want so it seems I need to check out the usability of the chimney first? Also, in what case would one buy an insert from a big box store? Of course safety is a concern.

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Posted by at 08:03 0 comments

29 December 2011

Re: [DIY] Re: Starter:

 

Might be another:

http://compare.ebay.com/like/250912081738?var=vipsrp&sort=BestMatch

Steve

On 12/27/2011 4:59 PM, resawd wrote:

 

Really struck out on that e-bay starter. I didn't know that the seller can reject bids from anyone for any reason he chooses, wrong name, wrong location, time of day, whatever. I, don't know what the test was but I flunked it and my bid was not accepted. So the posting closed with no bids and the seller will have to eat the starter. Little does he know that I was sure it was the one I needed and was willing to bid way beyond his minimum. He wasn't even accepting e-mails asking questions. Oh, well, back to the search for a rewinder.

--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "resawd" <resawd@...> wrote:
>
> This looks like the closest I have seen. I tried to contact the seller but for some reason couldn't make contact. Will try again tomorrow
>
>
> --- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "wired" <wiredformen@> wrote:
> >
> > Sure looks promising (that it is the same one). Write to the poster of this one on EBAY to get dimensions to compare.
> >
> > --- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, S_Wilson <virtualwilz@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I may have found one.
> > >
> > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/115-VOLT-STARTER-BRIGGS-SNOWBLOWER-GOCART-/150722929265?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2317c96271
> > >
> > > On 12/22/2011 4:36 PM, resawd wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Will havea couple more pics posted in the next few days.. I see what
> > > > you are thinking about the drill but un fortunately the back end of
> > > > the motor butts up against a part of the engin e.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>


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Posted by at 11:51 0 comments

Re: [DIY] caulkdiscolors

 

Cheap filler in the caulk. In such locations, always use silicon.

KrazyKyngeKorny (Krazy, not stupid)




On Wed, Dec 28, 2011 at 8:36 AM, greatyoga <greatyoga@yahoo.com> wrote:
 

A couple of years ago, I put a white formica countertop in the kitchen.I put white caulk where the counter meets the backsplash and the backsplash meets the wall. I don't remember what type or brand I used. I called both DAP and GE about the problem but they were of little use. Does anyone know what caused the white caulk to turn and almond color even where no food or anything had contact with the caulk. Also, what caulk will not discolor?

Thanks
GB


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Posted by at 11:49 0 comments

Re: [DIY] Tripping breaker workshop

 



> Wow. You have a great electrician. Went to Lowes and talked to the sales guy who is a retired electrician. Answer. Yes breakers go bad. It weakens every time it is tripped. Breakers are really a one time use but everybody just resets them. If there is a short in the buried line you probably will not even be able to reset it as it will re-trip immediately. Best course of action to replace. So I spent the $20 and bought a bottle Noalax. And yes I can put in a 100 amp since the line is large enough.
>
> Thanks for the replies.

This is completely false. Breakers are absolutely NOT "one time use". Who ever told you this was making it up.
Also, they do NOT "weaken" every time they trip.

That said, breakers do fail. Many times the breaker connection to the panel stab weakens and creates a high resistance connection, creating a LOT of heat at the connection, which can fool the breaker into tripping under little load.
Many times this damages the panel buss and the breaker cannot be put back in that position.

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Posted by at 09:05 0 comments

Re: [DIY] Tripping breaker workshop

 



--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "suzie" <suziegano@...> wrote:
>
> don't know much about breakers but I do know they can and do go bad. I always like to look at the cheapest solution first, switching the breaker isn't that hard or expensive----saying that, I call my electrician to do it and it took less than 5 minutes and he didn't charge me. LOL
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: sirpackyderm
> To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, December 28, 2011 2:27 PM
> Subject: [DIY] Tripping breaker workshop
>
Wow. You have a great electrician. Went to Lowes and talked to the sales guy who is a retired electrician. Answer. Yes breakers go bad. It weakens every time it is tripped. Breakers are really a one time use but everybody just resets them. If there is a short in the buried line you probably will not even be able to reset it as it will re-trip immediately. Best course of action to replace. So I spent the $20 and bought a bottle Noalax. And yes I can put in a 100 amp since the line is large enough.

Thanks for the replies.

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Posted by at 08:00 0 comments

Re: [DIY] Tripping breaker workshop

 

don't know much about breakers but I do know they can and do go bad. I always like to look at the cheapest solution first, switching the breaker isn't that hard or expensive----saying that, I call my electrician to do it and it took less than 5 minutes and he didn't charge me. LOL
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, December 28, 2011 2:27 PM
Subject: [DIY] Tripping breaker workshop

 

The 60 amp breaker keeps tripping for the wood shop. Breaker is in the house. Wood shop is an out building. The breakers in the wood shop never trip. Only the main in the house.

Box in the house is a 200 amp square D QO load center. Box in wood shop is a 150 amp Square D QO load center moved from the house. Conductors from the house to the wood shop are #2 AL rated for 100 amps buried.

The breaker blows even when the load is no where near capacity. Today only the compressor was running 1hp 220 volt and less that 700 watts of lights. The other day it was only the lights.

Is it possible the breaker is simply worn out? I do not know the age of the breaker. But it is at least 21 years old. When I installed the new service in 1990 some of the breaker were reused since we stayed with Square D.

If the shop is running full capacity there could be a 3hp saw, 2hp dust collector, air compressor 1hp, and 1500 watts of light all at once. But usually only one thing at a time unless the compressor kicks on.

Dale in the flat lands any thoughts?

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Posted by at 07:40 0 comments

RE: [DIY] Tripping breaker workshop

 

I have had a few breakers go bad.  Some even had been arcing on the box so the tabs the breaker plugs into are burnt.  Check them and if that's the case DEFINITELY change breakers and move the breaker position.  You may want to also change the box.  If that's not the case, it might be a good idea to change the breaker anyway for good measure since it's so old.  Another possibility is that there is a loose connection on the line with the air compressor.
 
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
From: hackberrystudios@hotmail.com
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 2011 20:30:29 +0000
Subject: Re: [DIY] Tripping breaker workshop

 
I don't have an ammeter. The price of a new breaker is not to bad. I think I'll just break out the $25 and try replacing it. The connections are tight. It is just so uncommon in my experience for breaker to go bad. But as with any mechanical device you never know.

--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, S_Wilson <virtualwilz@...> wrote:
>
> The right thing to do is to use an ammeter on each line after the
> breaker. If its tripping on a low load, the breaker is likely bad. I've
> seen where loading a breaker to 80% or more of its capacity for long
> periods, they fail more than usual. More so if they have been exposed to
> really warm weather during the heavy loads.
> I've seen it several times where the breakers fail. But you won't be
> sure unless you can get some readings. A clamp style ammeter is a safe
> way to get amperage readings.
> Check all the connector lugs too. Be sure they are all tight and free of
> corrosion. Poor connections cause voltage drops and voltage drops cause
> amperage rise.
> be careful!
> Steve
>
> On 12/28/2011 11:27 AM, sirpackyderm wrote:
> >
> > The 60 amp breaker keeps tripping for the wood shop. Breaker is in the
> > house. Wood shop is an out building. The breakers in the wood shop
> > never trip. Only the main in the house.
> >
> > Box in the house is a 200 amp square D QO load center. Box in wood
> > shop is a 150 amp Square D QO load center moved from the house.
> > Conductors from the house to the wood shop are #2 AL rated for 100
> > amps buried.
> >
> > The breaker blows even when the load is no where near capacity. Today
> > only the compressor was running 1hp 220 volt and less that 700 watts
> > of lights. The other day it was only the lights.
> >
> > Is it possible the breaker is simply worn out? I do not know the age
> > of the breaker. But it is at least 21 years old. When I installed the
> > new service in 1990 some of the breaker were reused since we stayed
> > with Square D.
> >
> > If the shop is running full capacity there could be a 3hp saw, 2hp
> > dust collector, air compressor 1hp, and 1500 watts of light all at
> > once. But usually only one thing at a time unless the compressor kicks
> > on.
> >
> > Dale in the flat lands any thoughts?
> >
> >
>


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Posted by at 05:55 0 comments

[DIY] Re: this has been your time to shine!!

 

I was starting to crack under pressure this was my last shot at success
it was important for me to stay positive.
http://richardbriddick.yoyo.pl/profile/70StuartWood/ im finally
starting to advance in life
just think of all the possibilities!

see you later!

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Posted by at 05:53 0 comments

Re: [DIY] Tripping breaker workshop

 

I don't have an ammeter. The price of a new breaker is not to bad. I think I'll just break out the $25 and try replacing it. The connections are tight. It is just so uncommon in my experience for breaker to go bad. But as with any mechanical device you never know.

--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, S_Wilson <virtualwilz@...> wrote:
>
> The right thing to do is to use an ammeter on each line after the
> breaker. If its tripping on a low load, the breaker is likely bad. I've
> seen where loading a breaker to 80% or more of its capacity for long
> periods, they fail more than usual. More so if they have been exposed to
> really warm weather during the heavy loads.
> I've seen it several times where the breakers fail. But you won't be
> sure unless you can get some readings. A clamp style ammeter is a safe
> way to get amperage readings.
> Check all the connector lugs too. Be sure they are all tight and free of
> corrosion. Poor connections cause voltage drops and voltage drops cause
> amperage rise.
> be careful!
> Steve
>
> On 12/28/2011 11:27 AM, sirpackyderm wrote:
> >
> > The 60 amp breaker keeps tripping for the wood shop. Breaker is in the
> > house. Wood shop is an out building. The breakers in the wood shop
> > never trip. Only the main in the house.
> >
> > Box in the house is a 200 amp square D QO load center. Box in wood
> > shop is a 150 amp Square D QO load center moved from the house.
> > Conductors from the house to the wood shop are #2 AL rated for 100
> > amps buried.
> >
> > The breaker blows even when the load is no where near capacity. Today
> > only the compressor was running 1hp 220 volt and less that 700 watts
> > of lights. The other day it was only the lights.
> >
> > Is it possible the breaker is simply worn out? I do not know the age
> > of the breaker. But it is at least 21 years old. When I installed the
> > new service in 1990 some of the breaker were reused since we stayed
> > with Square D.
> >
> > If the shop is running full capacity there could be a 3hp saw, 2hp
> > dust collector, air compressor 1hp, and 1500 watts of light all at
> > once. But usually only one thing at a time unless the compressor kicks
> > on.
> >
> > Dale in the flat lands any thoughts?
> >
> >
>

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Posted by at 04:30 0 comments

[DIY] Re: Starter:

 

Hi. I'm not sure I've read enough posts to know if I can help but there is a local guy here that rebuilds starters of all kinds and armatures. His name is Dan and he's good. If you're interested I have his number. Let me know. It might be worth a phone call to see if he might help.

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Posted by at 04:18 0 comments
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