Foil reflects heat back in. ok.
It OUGHT to be ok w/o the plastyic, but use the plastic anyway.
Ideally you tape the plastic joints, if any.
Hardibacker? is that ok for ~"constant moisture?" They have
a brochure/paper usually in the aisle, or try the net. They ought
to have a dot com. Google them.
I like 1/2", 3x5ft, cement board, like durarock.
You use fiberglass tape when you mud the joints.
Special screws...!!! NOT drywalls screws...!
My BIL was a handyman and working with it scared him,
until he did it once with me. Then he swore by it. Cutting
it can be done. VERY dusty & messy. BAD to breathe
cement dust. Good mask a must. Just score and snap,
as they say. Holes? Cut or score, and assist with an old
crummy screw driver and a hammer.
OBSERVE correct side in & out. Some pros miss this.
It is noted on the product.
12" shims might assit in truing studs if they are off a lot.
I use Liquid Nails to assist in holding them as I place them
and screw the cement board. A short, med, & long level
or straight edge and a med level will assist you.
BillSF9c
I'm in an over 100 year old home in Connecticut. The bathroom was redone in the 60's but its really a mess now. I'm want to tear the walls to the studs and insulate the 2 exterior walls. I asked a guy at Home Depot for some advice and he seemed to know what he was doing but I wanted to check with you good people here. He said I should use foiled faced insulation with the foil facing inward toward the room and then put plastic sheeting on the walls over the studs before I put up the backer board. Does this sound right? I want to be sure I don't have any moisture or condensation behind the backer board. Also I was thinking of using Hardi backer. Is this a good choice or is there some other product that might work better. Hope these weren't stupid questions. lol. Thanks Christine
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