Do it Yourself: RE: [DIY] Re: Eaves

16 November 2012

RE: [DIY] Re: Eaves

I'm thinking something like 3/4"-1" foam tubing jammed between the gutter and facia followed by a good bead of

silicone might work as a waterproof barrier that will force the water into the gutter instead of behind it.

Foam tubing is readily available at hardware stores. They're routinely used to insulate piping. You'd want to get

foam that's suitable for outdoor use so it won't deteriorate. Pretty cheap Frost King brand sells the foam for less

than $2 for 6 feet.

Would be a LOT easier than trying to move the gutter around.

Just a thought.

-aki

From: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Tori
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2012 5:13 PM
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DIY] Re: Eaves

Yes its about n inch, from drip to gutter and 1/2" between gutter n fascia

--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "Aki" <01dyna@...> wrote:
>
> is the gap too wide to just lay down a layer of caulking?
>
>
>
> -aki
>
>
>
>
>
> From: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Tori
> Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2012 11:24 AM
> To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DIY] Re: Eaves
>
>
>
>
>
> I recently learned the term "proud"- projects forward/outward, actually the
> gutter is proud which is why the water falls behind it. The drip is very
> tightly and securely glued to the roof edge. In fact so tight that I dont
> see how Im gonna get flashing behind it. Going back to check it out. There
> remains a gap betsween gutter and fascia that I cud tighten with screws for
> sake of reduction in the flow behind it, however, the drip isnt even close
> enough to that, rain will likely still mostly fall behind the crevice that
> remains. Im gonna check my other gutters. I dont believe gutters are as
> plumb to fascia as drip which is why the drip has to overlap the top rear of
> gutter.?
>
> --- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:DoIt_Yourself%40yahoogroups.com> , JEFFREY WILLIAMS
> <livhosaere62@> wrote:
> >
> > if you plan to replace the gutter nails with screws then possibly you can
> make blocks out of pt lumber to make your gutters stand proud so the water
> drip into the gutter than behind them,it is hard to call without pics
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: Tori <fertilegrnd@>
> > To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com <mailto:DoIt_Yourself%40yahoogroups.com>
>
> > Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2012 2:53 AM
> > Subject: [DIY] Re: Eaves
> >
> >
> > Â
> > It looks like my quick, cheap option is to buy a roll of flashing, trim
> the width and screw it onto the drip edge and fascia, it will go under the
> drip and over the gutter so that the rain will reach the gutter rather than
> behind it. If anyone foresees a problem with this method please share. I did
> confirm the problem was as I thought by taking hose to the roof and watching
> it pour around drip edge behind gutter. BTW, I had not clarified as I didnt
> realize til I rechecked, this is additionally a problem area as the roof is
> not shingled but a flat asphalt roof section, so the roof edge does not
> really overhang much but enough to go over the very tightly attached
> underside drip. It would be more work/ damage risk for me to replace drip or
> gutter. Also, I considered adding more brackets or replacing the spikes with
> gutter screws but I cant see how that would really make diff as the slope is
> just fine so its not a sag but rather the back edge of gutter
> > is not plumb to the fascia.
> >
> > --- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:DoIt_Yourself%40yahoogroups.com> , "Tori" <fertilegrnd@> wrote:
> > >
> >
>