Thanks for the feedback everyone. I should have provided more information in the original post.
As Bill stated, the foundation does indeed shift. The latch works off and on during stretches of time. I imagine it's seasonal given foundations shift during hot/dry and cold/wet weather.
This is a security door. There really is no strike plate per se. It's a long, square tube that runs vertical, parallel to the door. It's fastened to the house alongside the door. Holes are integrated in this tube rail for the deadbolt and the door knob. The holes are actually quite long, leaving plenty of play for such occasions. However, I believe the installer initially didn't align it well enough because it had to be adjusted by him very soon after his initial install. You can see how he actually peeled away at the metal to extend the hole down (instead of re-installing the entire rail tube).
This evening I did as suggested and unscrewed the door knob slightly as well as the latch portion. Though the side latch (what is the correct term for that thing?) does move up and down when unfastened, it's locked down into position once it's screwed back in. In other words, there's no way of adjustment that I can see. I'm going to check out the door hinges tomorrow but I believe those will be rock solid.
I also rechecked the alignment. It also could be that the latch doesn't sit far enough in (as if the door isn't closed all of the way). But I cannot see how the door could possibly be anymore snug at that area. From what I can tell the latch would need to be higher and further in.
Funny thing about those oscillating tools. I remember hearing about those and thinking it's just another gimmicky type of TV product. However, those things have become big hits and apparently do come in handy. I'll have to look out for the holiday sales.
Ok, the OP said that the latch no longer aligns with the striker plate, IMNSHO, you need to determine WHY it is now out of wack, if you just move the striker you are covering a problem. Look at other doors and windows, are any others getting hard to open or close, if so this could point to foundation problems. Get a level check the door frame for plumb, check the hinges to make sure the top one is not loose. A lock suddenly not locking is a cause for concern.
ck
From: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ray Kornele
Sent: Friday, December 02, 2011 1:12 PM
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DIY] Pallet cover and door metal cutting
For the door latch, take off the latch plate. Get a rotary file for a drill, and, file out the offending metal. Enlarge the screw holes in the direction you need to move.
Install some molybolts, and re-install the plate in the new location.
For the pallet tops, cover with 1.4" plywood, and, paint with elastomer roof coating. It comes in white, black, and, aluminum.
KrazyKyngeKorny (Krazy, not stupid)On Thu, Dec 1, 2011 at 11:55 PM, subprong <subprong@gmail.com> wrote:
Two completely unrelated questions please.
A door latch no longer aligns properly with the hole. Not the dead bolt, just the locking door knob. The latch part sits about 1/4" below the hole as best that I can tell. The hole is integrated into a metal frame. So I need to somehow expand the hole further down by that amount. I guess I could either continue the vertical parts of the hole downward and then somehow bend in or punch out the lip that would sit horizontally. Or perhaps I could find a metal spade bit and extend the hole a lot further down. Anyway, any suggestions....there's a tool for everything. Maybe there is a tool for extending a hole in a metal frame? If not, should I look for metal blades for a jig saw or reciprocating saw or something?
I would like to cover the top of a pallet (about 4' x 4') with something solid (doesn't have to be thick, merely to cover the openings) that is inexpensive ($5 maybe) and preferably rain resistant. Any out of box ideas? If at all possible I'd prefer not to go the sheet lumber route.
Thank you.
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