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31 August 2012

[DIY] Re: Powdercoat cast iron sink?

 

My condolences on your Mother's passing. Everything will work out for the best.

--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "Cecile" <clme849@...> wrote:
>
>
> Thanks, everyone for your replies, I may just get the new one. My sister would not even consider anything but cast iron. Our Mama just died unexpectedly last Sunday so this will have to wait.
> --- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Davis" <bob@> wrote:
> >
> > I wouldn't even consider painting the old sink, when you can buy a new cast
> > iron Kohler sink for under $200. There is a world of difference between a
> > kohler sink and no name cast iron sinks. I have 14 year old Kohler cast
> > iron enameled dual sink and there is not a chip anywhere. It looks like new.
> > Many Kohler sinks have lifetime guarantees against chipping. Whatever
> > process they use to coat the sinks really works.
> >
> >
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> >
> > From: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of radman
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2012 10:52 AM
> > To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [DIY] Re: Powdercoat cast iron sink?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > this is a painting system whereby you apply a negative charge(the piece
> > you'e painting) and positive charge (the paint powder). i've been where
> > we've had machines done it worked fine, but i'm not sure how it will work to
> > spot paint something. even roughing up the entire finish may or may not show
> > it's been redone and i would wonder how long it will last. i bet it will
> > chip fairly easy
> > in the long run replacing the sink will probably be the best. and you can
> > find sinks for sale fairly cheap that have been pulled out simply due to
> > renovation projects that are in excellent shape, someone just wants to
> > "update".
> > but for $50 it's probably worth the gamble. removing the sink and replacing
> > it is probably gonna be the "@#$%@$ part" that's going to change your
> > vocabulary you can bet.
> >
> > darrell
> >
> > --- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:DoIt_Yourself%40yahoogroups.com> , "Cecile" <clme849@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I live with my sister and the kitchen sink is rusting, mostly on the top
> > edge. I asked at one place about having it powder coated and he said if it
> > would fit in 7 x7 area he could do it for around $50. It weighs a lot, but I
> > think we could get it out. Does anyone have any experience with this
> > coating? Does it look nice? Does it last? Special care? Etc.
> > >
> >
>

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Posted by at 08:06 0 comments

RE: [DIY] bathroom sink valve

 

At first thought I would think it was one of those that had a plastic ring on the outside of the ball on the rod running inside.  They are usually flat on one side and concave on the other.  Check to see if somethign like that fell out and is laying around underneather the trap.  If not that, could it be cross-threaded?
 
 
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
From: chtom@aol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 16:44:00 +0000
Subject: [DIY] bathroom sink valve

 
I had to remove the stopper valve in a bath room sink to remove a collection of hair. When I reinstalled the valve, I got a leak around the nut that holds the ball on the lever in place. I replaced teh lever and ball, still leaks. I have more than hand tighten the nut.

I have replace several of these with no leaks. Any suggestions for me.

Tom


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Posted by at 08:05 0 comments

Re: [DIY] Paved walkway

 

The crushed rock, with the sharper edges is more likely
to lock together to form a sold base for your pavers.
The river rock is better for drainage purpose, since it will take
long for the gaps between the rocks to fill in, thus allowing
water to flow more.
Sand in general is too small/smooth to lock together, but
is very helpful for final levelling and gap filling
for the pavers.

That is generally the rule of thumb I use to determine
what type of rock.

Either will probably work, but you might get a little
more uneven settling with the river rock.
Good thing about pavers on sand is that its fairly easy to
lift a few pavers and re-level (well, ok, maybe that
can add up to a lot of work, but still easier than tearing out
a concrete pour and starting over.

dave
On 08/30/2012 03:36 PM, msromo1 wrote:
> Hi all -
>
> I'm looking to do a paved walkway. My question is, can I use small river rock or pea gravel for the base instead of crushed rock or a driveway mix? I would then follow up with a sand level and pavers. I need about 8 yard which is about $200 and I've seen river rock/pea gravel on Craigslist for fee. Looking at economics.
>
> Thanks for the advice,
> Joan - NW WI

--
Dave Uebele (daveu@sptddog.com)

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Posted by at 07:19 0 comments

[DIY] Paved walkway

 

Hi all -

I'm looking to do a paved walkway. My question is, can I use small river rock or pea gravel for the base instead of crushed rock or a driveway mix? I would then follow up with a sand level and pavers. I need about 8 yard which is about $200 and I've seen river rock/pea gravel on Craigslist for fee. Looking at economics.

Thanks for the advice,
Joan - NW WI

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Posted by at 06:36 0 comments

RE: [DIY] bathroom sink valve

 

As I recall, there is usually a form fitted nylon washer that must be installed between the ball and the outside nut.  Did you leave it out by any chance?

 

Bob

 

From: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Tom
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2012 11:44 AM
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DIY] bathroom sink valve

 

 

I had to remove the stopper valve in a bath room sink to remove a collection of hair. When I reinstalled the valve, I got a leak around the nut that holds the ball on the lever in place. I replaced teh lever and ball, still leaks. I have more than hand tighten the nut.

I have replace several of these with no leaks. Any suggestions for me.

Tom

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Posted by at 04:14 0 comments

[DIY] bathroom sink valve

 

I had to remove the stopper valve in a bath room sink to remove a collection of hair. When I reinstalled the valve, I got a leak around the nut that holds the ball on the lever in place. I replaced teh lever and ball, still leaks. I have more than hand tighten the nut.

I have replace several of these with no leaks. Any suggestions for me.

Tom

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Posted by at 00:44 0 comments

30 August 2012

[DIY] Testing

 

Testing to see if I'm actually back, and that Yahoo's sending group mail to
the proper email address.

Sorry for the interruption.

Sandaidh
sandaidh@atlanticbb.net

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Posted by at 23:18 0 comments

29 August 2012

RE: [DIY] Furnace wiring

 

Thanks all.  I was able to find and clean off the name plate.  It said the max amperage was 9.5 amps so I used a 20 amp circuit breaker with 12 gauge wire.  In this area, they don't allow 15 amp circuit breakers so I couldn't use 14 gauge wire.  Although the NEC says 14 gage wire would be fine, I have a rule that I only use it for lights only (I don't even use it for ceiling fans).   Also, the rule in this area is that 14 gage wire is only used for lights only up to 200 watts (which I think is WAY too small of an amount - I would prefer to a limit 1000 watts).

 
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
From: OOWONBS@Netscape.net
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 16:24:27 -0400
Subject: Re: [DIY] Furnace wiring

 
*IF* it said 15A, (which indicates 14-2 min,) I would opt for 12-2.
But I ask...
Was it not a tendency for older furnaces to use motors that
had a bit of surge to them? ( If so - This may alone be a good
reason to go to 12-2. OR- if the run is a bit long...)

BillSF9c

Posted by: "wired" wiredformen@yahoo.com wiringdallas
>Yes, a 120 volt circuit for the gas furnace is usually correct. 14 or
12-2wg is
correct wiring. Do verify on the nameplate. The outside unit circuit
is
usually 240 volts only + ground w/o a neutral for 120 volts. Also, the
outside
unit circuit is sized for that unit only.

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Posted by at 07:39 0 comments

Re: [DIY] Furnace wiring

 

*IF* it said 15A, (which indicates 14-2 min,) I would opt for 12-2.
But I ask...
Was it not a tendency for older furnaces to use motors that
had a bit of surge to them? ( If so - This may alone be a good
reason to go to 12-2. OR- if the run is a bit long...)

BillSF9c

Posted by: "wired" wiredformen@yahoo.com wiringdallas
>Yes, a 120 volt circuit for the gas furnace is usually correct. 14 or
12-2wg is
correct wiring. Do verify on the nameplate. The outside unit circuit
is
usually 240 volts only + ground w/o a neutral for 120 volts. Also, the
outside
unit circuit is sized for that unit only.

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Posted by at 04:24 0 comments

Re: [DIY] Well...

 

Exciting?  Someone's doing something exciting?  I wanna go.

On Aug 28, 2012, at 11:12 AM, Sandaidh wrote:
>>Don't do anything exciting while I'm gone, okay. ;-)

I'll be back in a few days. I hope.

Sandaidh
sandaidh@atlanticbb.net


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Posted by at 00:30 0 comments

[DIY] Well...

 

Thanks to Yahoo messing with my emails, I'm going to have to unsub, wait a
few days and then re-join the group. Hopefully, that will fix the problem.
The problem? I can send to the group from my new email address, but I
receive group mail at my OLD address. I've been to My Groups and changed to
the new email address, and I've changed my profile to add the new address.
But Yahoo insists on both addresses being half-subscribed, and I can't think
of anything else to do. Fortunately, it's only a few groups to which this
is happening, so I'm going to do it one at a time. This one just happens to
be at the head of the list.

Don't do anything exciting while I'm gone, okay. ;-)

I'll be back in a few days. I hope.

Sandaidh
sandaidh@atlanticbb.net

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Posted by at 00:12 0 comments

28 August 2012

Re: [DIY] Furnace wiring

 

Yes, a 120 volt circuit for the gas furnace is usually correct. 14 or 12-2wg is correct wiring. Do verify on the nameplate. The outside unit circuit is usually 240 volts only + ground w/o a neutral for 120 volts. Also, the outside unit circuit is sized for that unit only.

--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, Mike Shoaf <mike.shoaf@...> wrote:
>
> check the nameplate on the furnace for voltage and amperage; most gas furnaces I have dealt with only need 120-volts and a minimum of 15 amps, thus a 14-2 NM cable with a good ground. the condenser unit outside requires its own dedicated 240-volt circuit. if in doubt, call an electrician to check it out!
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Ron Johnson <l0c0l0b0@...>
> To: doit_yourself@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 1:46 PM
> Subject: [DIY] Furnace wiring
>
>
>
>  
>
> I have bought a building and there is an old Heil furnace (Model Number NUGE080GK01) in the basement.  I already know that there is a lot to do on this (like rerunning the gas vent exhaust), but right now I need to wire up the unit.  It looks like they had a double-30 amp circuit with a 10/3 equivalent (actually they ran an outdoor wire which looks like a 10/2 and then added a single wire for the common).  I had to remove a bunch of wires from the old circuit breaker box and now realized I missed rewiring the furnace.  Is a 10/3 on a double 30 amp circuit what I need?  There is another unit outside that is already powered by a double 30 amp circuit breaker box so I am wondering if I can just splice off that.  As you might be able to tell, I don't know much about HVAC systems.
>

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Posted by at 06:44 0 comments

Re: [DIY] Furnace wiring

 

check the nameplate on the furnace for voltage and amperage; most gas furnaces I have dealt with only need 120-volts and a minimum of 15 amps, thus a 14-2 NM cable with a good ground. the condenser unit outside requires its own dedicated 240-volt circuit. if in doubt, call an electrician to check it out!

From: Ron Johnson <l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com>
To: doit_yourself@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 1:46 PM
Subject: [DIY] Furnace wiring

 
I have bought a building and there is an old Heil furnace (Model Number NUGE080GK01) in the basement.  I already know that there is a lot to do on this (like rerunning the gas vent exhaust), but right now I need to wire up the unit.  It looks like they had a double-30 amp circuit with a 10/3 equivalent (actually they ran an outdoor wire which looks like a 10/2 and then added a single wire for the common).  I had to remove a bunch of wires from the old circuit breaker box and now realized I missed rewiring the furnace.  Is a 10/3 on a double 30 amp circuit what I need?  There is another unit outside that is already powered by a double 30 amp circuit breaker box so I am wondering if I can just splice off that.  As you might be able to tell, I don't know much about HVAC systems.


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Posted by at 02:47 0 comments

[DIY] Furnace wiring

 

I have bought a building and there is an old Heil furnace (Model Number NUGE080GK01) in the basement.  I already know that there is a lot to do on this (like rerunning the gas vent exhaust), but right now I need to wire up the unit.  It looks like they had a double-30 amp circuit with a 10/3 equivalent (actually they ran an outdoor wire which looks like a 10/2 and then added a single wire for the common).  I had to remove a bunch of wires from the old circuit breaker box and now realized I missed rewiring the furnace.  Is a 10/3 on a double 30 amp circuit what I need?  There is another unit outside that is already powered by a double 30 amp circuit breaker box so I am wondering if I can just splice off that.  As you might be able to tell, I don't know much about HVAC systems.

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Posted by at 01:46 0 comments

26 August 2012

Re: [DIY] Testing

 

Well, now, that's interesting. It seems that both my old (localnet) email
address and my new (atlanticbb) one are...half subscribed?

I'm able to send to the group with my new email address, but receive
messages from the group at my old email address. Weird.

There may be a few more test messages as I try to get this sorted out. My
apologies in advance to the group.

Sandaidh
sandaidh@atlanticbb.net

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Posted by at 04:47 0 comments

[DIY] Testing

 

Testing a new email address.

Sandaidh
sandaidh@atlanticbb.net

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Posted by at 04:23 0 comments
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