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25 January 2013

Re: [DIY] Need to find a Tool:

 

I used to charge 15 to $20.00 each to repair chairs and did quite a number over the years.  I would also drill small 1/16 in holes into the joints and then after tying and clamping the chairs shoot the joints full of glue, plugging the holes with round tooth picks to keep the glue in place.  If you do not tie the chair first the pressure will push the joints apart and a real mess ensues.   We trimmed off the picks and with a touch of stain they became almost invisible, I always drilled from the underside so that you would have had to turn the chair over to find the entry holes.  Sometimes you would see the glue going down a crack in the seat or a spindle that you did not even know was there.  I never had any complaints, but there are some woods that do not take glue well, and I always worried about the old glue having sealed off the wood so that the new would not penetrate, put the pressure may have solved that problem without me knowing.

Now that I have more tooling at my disposal I'm thinking about building a new glue gun, but this time I think I will convert one of the air units and use a pressure regulator to control the pressure.  I'll redo the reservoir so that it only requires about 1/4 cup of glue to charge the gun.
Dale in the Flatlands.
Bob Davis wrote:
 

It sounds like your repaired chairs will never, ever come apart again.

 

From: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dale S
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 10:05 PM
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DIY] Need to find a Tool:

 

 

I'll be sure to let everyone know how well it works once I get it.  I sometimes need long fluted dowels to re-glue and restore window frames, chairs, and other pieces of furniture.  If they aren't fluted they will act as pistons and actually split the wood.  I have a glue gun that is adapted from a small grease gun and I can use to put glue into joints under high pressure.  Using a lathe I can drill a small hole down the center of the dowel and then once I have driven it in place shoot the glue down the center and let it completely penetrate the surrounding area.  I don't use it very ofter as it is kind of a bear to clean up, but when needed I've never found anything to replace it.

Dale in the Flatlands.

Steve Wilson wrote:

 

I saw that dowel fluting jig that Dale ordered but I didn't think it had flutes on it. It looked like the cutters were smooth by the picture. Good thing someone else looked closer than I did.
Steve

On 1/23/2013 12:31 PM, subprong wrote:

 

I had no idea such a thing had existed.  I was intrigued by your design illustration and started to look things up based on your description.  Initially I saw something called "dowel plates".  I watched some great videos of folks creating dowels (out of sections of wood that they had cut on a bandsaw) via these plates .  I thought that was the coolest thing ever.  One of my favorite shows was something that had once aired on PBS.  A woodworker would create projects out of what were essentially man-made tools.  Everything was from scratch.  It reminded me of that show.

As for the keywords, I don't know how it came about.  I read your description and started looking at the plate pages and I think the ebay page that Steve had sent.  It was Dowel and Flute that resulted in the initial link. 

On Wed, Jan 23, 2013 at 8:15 AM, Dale S <dalu@hbcomm.net> wrote:

 

Thank You so much.  Just placed my order for one and with shipping it was less than $21.00.  There are lots of times when I need a dowel or two that is longer than the standard 1 or 1 1/2 inch but the pressure lock from inserting a regular smooth dowel means I need to do something to score the sides.  This will be just what the doctor ordered.  I don't know what you used for a key search word but it had to be one I overlooked.

Dale in the Flatlands.

subprong wrote:

 

 

 

 

 


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