Just in case you have not run across this information before.
You will need unique valve units design for on demand water heaters. These valves have two built in valves in each valve unit. One valve allows the water to flow through the water heater or you may shut off the input water line, shut of the out put water line or both. Both will be shut off during the cleaning of the unit. Due to calcium build up a vinegar solution is required to be pumped into the unit and the output dumped back into the container containing the pump and vinegar solution. The second set of input and output ports which open to the side of the main valve body have there own shut off valves. During the cleaning, you pump the vinegar solution in the cold water input side valve and dump the vinegar solution from the hot water output side valve back into the container with the pump and the vinegar solution.
I installed a water particulate filter just prior to the cold water entering the water heater. This just made sense to me. My unit is a gas propane and I think it is great. No problems in 4 years.
Water flow rate is the key to having good results. Do your research to determine what your maximum hot water demand rate of flow will be. Using the dish washer, washing clothes and taking a shower all at the same time was my maximum demand rate.
Watch out for minimum water flow rate through the water heater. With water restrictions in the shower head and faucets I ran into not enough water flow through the water heater. What happen was when a person took a shower and did not like a lot of hot water, the demand for hot water was so low that the water heater would not turn on. To overcome this problem of taking a low hot water demand shower with out any other hot water demand I had them turn on the hot water at the sink just a little.
I purchased my on demand hot water heater from a company based in Alaska and it has very little electronics in this unit. This may be why I have a low hot water demand problem. This unit cost $325.00 and a Rinnai on demand unit of the same flow rate as the unit I purchased was $1.200.00 and was packed with electronics. I saw this as a maintenance problem. I live in rural area and wanted a unit that did not require electricity and used batteries for the igniter and operate the electronics. This allowed me to use my generator to run my well pump and have hot water during power outages.
I purchased a used ShureFlow self priming diaphragm pump for flushing the unit.
I suspect electrical units may be less complicated and if it is being used for a single applaction it becomes even easier.
Good luck.
Robert
On Sunday, April 27, 2014 6:07 AM, "joycekeay@comcast.net" <joycekeay@comcast.net> wrote:
Hi, I finally called the plumber to talk about converting from a hot water tank to a tankless system. He has installed gas systems but not electric systems (which mine would be). He said he would check it out with the electrician he works with and get back to me to let me know if there would be a benefit to switching considering that it would probably be pretty costly.
If there is not a benefit to switching, I want to get a new tank before this one gives out. This one is 6 years old and the last one was 6 years old when it gave out. I'm pretty sure my husband always opted for the most basic tank. I don't mind spending more if it means the tank will last longer. Cape Cod water is acidic. I do have a pH corrective system in my basement but perhaps the water is still slightly acidic (I get green stains in my toilet). So does anybody have a recommendation? Glass lined? Brand?
Thanks. Joyce
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