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30 July 2016

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Re: [DIY] Re: Control panel on oven blew-now need to check Breaker

 

The purpose of the circuit breaker is to protect the wiring and it should be sized according to the wiring connected to it, not the end load.  Check the national electric code.


Bob



On Jul 29, 2016, at 9:09 AM, Terry THenne1713@aol.com [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

I would want to change the breaker to 30 amp instead of 40; you WANT it to trip when things go wrong.. the extra 10-amps means an extra 2400-watts heat required to trip it... NOT a good thing (as you have seen).  Had similar when new more efficient air unit installed, they left the 50-amp breaker, but new rating was 35-amp breaker, so I went to store and bought 35 and changed it out..  No sense in letting a motor sit and FRY at LRA (Lock Rotor Amps) Just a fire risk



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Posted by: Bob Davis <bob@wrobertdavis.com>
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29 July 2016

[DIY] Re: Control panel on oven blew-now need to check Breaker

 

I would want to change the breaker to 30 amp instead of 40; you WANT it to trip when things go wrong.. the extra 10-amps means an extra 2400-watts heat required to trip it... NOT a good thing (as you have seen).  Had similar when new more efficient air unit installed, they left the 50-amp breaker, but new rating was 35-amp breaker, so I went to store and bought 35 and changed it out..  No sense in letting a motor sit and FRY at LRA (Lock Rotor Amps) Just a fire risk

Terry
thenne1713@aol.com

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Posted by: Terry <thenne1713@aol.com>
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28 July 2016

Re: [DIY] Re: Control panel on oven blew-now need to check outlet

 

We do get storms here but was nothing in the time prior to this happening.  When we have had damage from lightening, it's usually obvious. The repairman just said the control panel went out - he couldn't figure out how to repair it but I wanted it replaced, it was only 6 weeks old.   

In retrospect, I would have bought the Oven/MW unit.  I wasn't familiar with them but the oven cabinet was actually intended for that type so it would have looked better installed and the total cost would probably have been less.  I'm not sure about the Whirlpool warranty but the Sears Silver covers power surges, lightening etc.

On Jul 27, 2016, at 7:14 PM, Terry THenne1713@aol.com [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


If the control panel went out, is there any chance that it was caused by surge or lightning?  Oven I would want replaced completely, and might also want to check/ report to UL?  I had a lightning storm a few years back before I discovered control board blown for gas heater, an month/ two later, determined control board bad for hot tub.  I blame both on that storm, but never filed insurance and cost about $1,000 between them.  If there was any chance that this was lightning/ or surge damage, you might also want receptacle and wire replaced.  If it is felt this was SOLELY a defective control board, you can drop back to close visual inspection of the receptacle.




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Posted by: "oakridgefarm@gmail.com" <oakridgefarm@gmail.com>
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Re: [DIY] Control panel on oven blew-now need to check outlet

 

 The oven, MW, cooktop etc are all on separate circuits.  The oven requires a minimum of 30 amps & it's a 40 amp breaker.

  • Minimum Circuit Rating:
    30 amps

Finally talked to the electrician last night, he said he doubted there would be a problem with the wiring because of the amount of insulation surrounding the oven, and was probably why the front of the oven sustained all the damage.  The new units are being delivered Monday and installed Tuesday, will be interesting to see how they get the door open to remove the oven from the cabinet.  I always learn something from the list - will never understand electricity but at least I know what to look for :)

On Jul 27, 2016, at 4:23 AM, Mike Shoaf mike.shoaf@yahoo.com [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


what size is the breaker in the panel? standard for a standalone range is a 40 or 50 amp breaker. 

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Posted by: "oakridgefarm@gmail.com" <oakridgefarm@gmail.com>
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[DIY] Re: Control panel on oven blew-now need to check outlet

 

If the control panel went out, is there any chance that it was caused by surge or lightning?  Oven I would want replaced completely, and might also want to check/ report to UL?  I had a lightning storm a few years back before I discovered control board blown for gas heater, an month/ two later, determined control board bad for hot tub.  I blame both on that storm, but never filed insurance and cost about $1,000 between them.  If there was any chance that this was lightning/ or surge damage, you might also want receptacle and wire replaced.  If it is felt this was SOLELY a defective control board, you can drop back to close visual inspection of the receptacle.


Terry
thenne1713@aol.com

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Posted by: Terry <thenne1713@aol.com>
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27 July 2016

Re: [DIY] Control panel on oven blew-now need to check outlet

 

what size is the breaker in the panel? standard for a standalone range is a 40 or 50 amp breaker. if you have a separate oven and cook top, the electrician may have used a 50 amp and spliced it to feed the oven and cooktop. check the rating on the appliance before connecting it-some of the more efficient new ones only are rated at 20 amps if the oven is separate from the cooktop/burner assembly. separate circuits for the separated units would be safer to keep this situation from occurring again!


On Tuesday, July 26, 2016 11:48 PM, "'oakridgefarm@gmail.com' oakridgefarm@gmail.com [DoIt_Yourself]" <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


 
We had a new 220 line put in just for the oven, the microwave is on a separate breaker.  Other than 220 I'm not sure what rating there is for an oven?  Once the oven is removed we'll be able to see the outlet - but we'd have to tear into the wall (wood) to see the actual wiring.  


On Jul 26, 2016, at 7:04 PM, mike.shoaf@yahoo.com [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

wow! what size breaker served your oven? check the label on your new oven-make sure your new breaker is no higher rating than what is listed as maximum on the new one. is the wiring visible when the oven is removed? you may want to consider having it checked while you are at it; if it is accessible go ahead and replace it with the correct size from the appliance label

 



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Posted by: Mike Shoaf <mike.shoaf@yahoo.com>
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Re: [DIY] Control panel on oven blew-now need to check outlet

 

We had a new 220 line put in just for the oven, the microwave is on a separate breaker.  Other than 220 I'm not sure what rating there is for an oven?  Once the oven is removed we'll be able to see the outlet - but we'd have to tear into the wall (wood) to see the actual wiring.  



On Jul 26, 2016, at 7:04 PM, mike.shoaf@yahoo.com [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

wow! what size breaker served your oven? check the label on your new oven-make sure your new breaker is no higher rating than what is listed as maximum on the new one. is the wiring visible when the oven is removed? you may want to consider having it checked while you are at it; if it is accessible go ahead and replace it with the correct size from the appliance label


 

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Posted by: "oakridgefarm@gmail.com" <oakridgefarm@gmail.com>
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[DIY] Re: Control panel on oven blew-now need to check outlet

 

wow! what size breaker served your oven? check the label on your new oven-make sure your new breaker is no higher rating than what is listed as maximum on the new one. is the wiring visible when the oven is removed? you may want to consider having it checked while you are at it; if it is accessible go ahead and replace it with the correct size from the appliance label

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Posted by: mike.shoaf@yahoo.com
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[DIY] Control panel on oven blew-now need to check outlet

 

The control panel on my new electric wall oven went out while the clean cycle was on and the oven locked up and simply kept heating till it blew the breaker.  It blew the outlets on that side, melted the seals and actually bowed the oven door a little. Also melted the trim panel on the MW which is below the oven.  It is locked up tight and the technician wasn't able to get it open and could find no instructions on prying it open.  Sears is replacing everything however, what we don't know, and won't know till they get the oven out of the cabinet, if there was any damage to the back of the cabinet/the wall/ or the 220 plug.  Other than looking for black burnt marks what can be done to ensure the outlet is safe to use?  The oven has to be taken out before we can see that area - but the installer is simply an installer.


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Posted by: "oakridgefarm@gmail.com" <oakridgefarm@gmail.com>
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