Re: [DIY] Deck

 

>> I was hoping to come up with a cheaper fix for some privacy on two partial sides.

We are in the process of adding onto our fence, using 2x8' lattice panels.  The current fence is a 4' good neighbor type.  I may have mentioned this before but if not, each 2x8' lattice panel is enclosed with an edging on the top, bottom and both ends making each panel separate, then when they are installed DH is adding a strip at each joining for stability and appearance.  We have done this before and really liked it.  It allows air to flow through, weathers to match the fence and not as expensive as putting in a new fence.  For a little more privacy we've added climbing plants along part of it and are putting large shrubs along the back to help screen our deck.

The first time we did this, we added onto the top of a 6' fence and used 2x4's for the edging and 4x4's for each joining.  However, DH had to use the available space between the boards in the good neighbor fence.  You can find pictures of this type of fence by googling lattice top fence.

For a fast, inexpensive fix you can make portable lattice panels.  We have 2x8' & 4x8' panels used vertically, add a 2x2" edge around each one and two crosswise "legs" at the bottom, wide enough to make the panel self-supporting.  We used door hinges to connect the panels to form corners and so they could be rearranged.  To store for the winter, the peg in the hinge just pops out, unscrew the crosspieces and you have flat panels again.  We used the plastic lattice for these, 10-15 years ago and they are well used but still good.

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[DIY] Deck

 

Ive tried to find info but its not been easy, even with expensive magazines which show pics of my hopes- I have enjoyed a large deck with an unfortunate full 3/4 view of my deck from the driving/walking public. It has average height rails. Would I need to replace current posts for taller ones in order to put up a privacy screen, whether it is a trellis type or a pergola sturdier type. I was hoping to come up with a cheaper fix for some privacy on two partial sides. I have recently learned I can put up deck planters for when Im sitting but its an elevated deck so standing is my main concern. Nothing has shown me that its possible to extend my existing with special brackets. Must be sturdy for wind and snow.

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[DIY] Need Advice

 

I am remodeling my bathroom. I would like to use sunflowers in the decor--light yellow (?) walls, dark yellow shower curtain, and I hope to paint the cabinet, medicine cabinet, door, and the bar part of the towel rack dark green. I would like to paint the base of the towel rack a dark yellow, to make it look like sunflowers.

I would also like to build some sort of cabinet above the toilet similar to the recessed one that is there, and make it look like the whole area above the sink and toilet is a medicine cabinet, without removing the stud between the 2 cabinets.

Another question: I have hardwood oak flooring (the real deal!) in the hallway leading to the bathroom. I think the casing and the outside of the bathroom door will be painted--a close match to the flooring. (All of the wood on my old windows and doors are in poor shape, which is why I hope to paint all of them, until I can afford to put new windows in the other rooms.) Would it look out of place to have the interior of the bathroom door/cabinets painted dark green, or would that detract from the rest of the house?

If someone can tell me how to upload some photos, it will help you see where I'm coming from.

Thank you.

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[DIY] Need advice

 

I am remodeling my bathroom. I would like to use sunflowers in the decor--light yellow (?) walls, dark yellow shower curtain, and I hope to paint the cabinet, medicine cabinet, door, and the bar part of the towel rack dark green. I would like to paint the base of the towel rack a dark yellow, to make it look like sunflowers.

I would also like to build some sort of cabinet above the toilet similar to the recessed one that is there, and make it look like the whole area above the sink and toilet is a medicine cabinet, without removing the stud between the 2 cabinets.

Another question: I have hardwood oak flooring (the real deal!) in the hallway leading to the bathroom. I think the casing and the outside of the bathroom door will be painted--a close match to the flooring. (All of the wood on my old windows and doors are in poor shape, which is why I hope to paint all of them, until I can afford to put new windows in the other rooms.) Would it look out of place to have the interior of the bathroom door/cabinets painted dark green, or would that detract from the rest of the house?

If someone can tell me how to upload some photos, it will help you see where I'm coming from.

Thank you.

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Re: [DIY] Re: Water heater tripping circuit breaker

 

here is GE's website. it contains a reference (page 8) to the National Electric Code pertaining to a voltage and amperage chart for their various water heaters.

in my area, power company generally delivers power within 10% of standard voltages: 240 volts +/- 10% =221 to 262 volts, most often closer to 5% range according to load on their lines.

 

 

http://products.geappliances.com/MarketingObjectRetrieval/Dispatcher?RequestType=PDF&Name=AP12168-7 (GE Elec).pdf

From: Mike Shoaf <mike.shoaf@yahoo.com>
To: "DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com" <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2012 8:33 PM
Subject: Re: [DIY] Re: Water heater tripping circuit breaker

what does the nameplate on the water heater tell us? please check the nameplate and see if it gives a minimum amperage required. most 40 gallon water heaters require a 240 volt 30 amp circuit; logically, an 80 gallon water heater will require at least that much, possibly more according to its recovery rate. a 30 amp 2 pole breaker is fairly inexpensive in most cases, please just be sure you have an existing wire that will handle it. if you can find a friend with an 'amp clamp' style meter that will measure the amperage on each leg might solve this dilemna. if not, call an electrician!

From: petey_racer <petey_racer@yahoo.com>
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2012 5:06 PM
Subject: [DIY] Re: Water heater tripping circuit breaker

 

Exactly.
A water heater is a resistance heat load. The lower the voltage the lower the wattage and thus the lower the amperage. The resistance is the constant.

--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, Lee Griffith <ldgriff2001@...> wrote:
>
> I don't think wattage is the independent variable in the equation V*I=Watts. By your reasoning, if the voltage dropped towards zero then the current would rise to an infinite level which is not possible with fixed resistance in the heating coils. Perhaps it might be better to think of the wattage as being calculated from (V*V)/R = Watts. Then if you knew the resistance, you could see the power drawn at different voltage levels and then relate that wattage to the current at each voltage level.
>
> -Lee
>
> On Mar 28, 2012, at 5:19 AM, wired wrote:
>
> > Yes this is correct. Most water heaters are 4500 watts (18 amps), but some are 5600 watts (23 amps). Some are even less than 4500 watts (rare). National electrical code requires #10 wire and a 30 amp breaker. Another issue recently occurring in Texas at least is that the power companies are lowering the voltage causing an appliance to pull more amperage. Watts divided by voltage gives amperage so less voltage gives more amperage. 126/252 volts was once common, but now it is 120/240 volts.
> >
> > --- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "petey_racer" <petey_racer@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Because it is Drawing 23 amps and WILL trip a 20A breaker eventually.
> > >
> > > The old one may not have been 5500 watts. It may have been 4500 watts.
> > > No matter, even a 4500 watt unit must be on a (25A or) 30A circuit with at least #10cu wire. Yours MUST be on a 30A.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "waspangle" <waspangle@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hello learned DIYers,
> > > >
> > > > I've got a 6 month-old 80 gal. elec water heater that tripped the double-pole 20 amp breaker. It may have happened twice over a 24 or 48 hour period, the facts are a little unclear here.
> > > >
> > > > This unit is rated at 5500/4130 watts, which means it should probably be on a 30 amp circuit. The similar 80 gal heater that this one replaced operated trouble free on this circuit for 7 years. It appears that the wire from the "little gray box" timer to the heater is 10 guage...if it is 12g, replacing with 10 will be no problem. Hopefully a 10g runs from breaker to timer.
> > > >
> > > > So, any theories on why it would start tripping this (undersized) breaker now?
> > > >
> > > > Many thanks for your input,
> > > >
> > > > -Wayne
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
>

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[DIY] Re: Water heater tripping circuit breaker

 

Right in the original post: "This unit is rated at 5500/4130 watts".

This is the 240/208v rating. The resistance is the same, so it draws less wattage at 208v than it does at 240v.

Residential voltage is 240v, so 5500w @ 240v = 23a draw, x the mandatory 125% for a storage water heater = 30A circuit.

--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, Mike Shoaf <mike.shoaf@...> wrote:
>
> what does the nameplate on the water heater tell us? please check the nameplate and see if it gives a minimum amperage required. most 40 gallon water heaters require a 240 volt 30 amp circuit; logically, an 80 gallon water heater will require at least that much, possibly more according to its recovery rate. a 30 amp 2 pole breaker is fairly inexpensive in most cases, please just be sure you have an existing wire that will handle it. if you can find a friend with an 'amp clamp' style meter that will measure the amperage on each leg might solve this dilemna. if not, call an electrician!
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: petey_racer <petey_racer@...>
> To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2012 5:06 PM
> Subject: [DIY] Re: Water heater tripping circuit breaker
>
>
>  
> Exactly.
> A water heater is a resistance heat load. The lower the voltage the lower the wattage and thus the lower the amperage. The resistance is the constant.
>
> --- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, Lee Griffith <ldgriff2001@> wrote:
> >
> > I don't think wattage is the independent variable in the equation V*I=Watts. By your reasoning, if the voltage dropped towards zero then the current would rise to an infinite level which is not possible with fixed resistance in the heating coils. Perhaps it might be better to think of the wattage as being calculated from (V*V)/R = Watts. Then if you knew the resistance, you could see the power drawn at different voltage levels and then relate that wattage to the current at each voltage level.
> >
> > -Lee
> >
> > On Mar 28, 2012, at 5:19 AM, wired wrote:
> >
> > > Yes this is correct. Most water heaters are 4500 watts (18 amps), but some are 5600 watts (23 amps). Some are even less than 4500 watts (rare). National electrical code requires #10 wire and a 30 amp breaker. Another issue recently occurring in Texas at least is that the power companies are lowering the voltage causing an appliance to pull more amperage. Watts divided by voltage gives amperage so less voltage gives more amperage. 126/252 volts was once common, but now it is 120/240 volts.
> > >
> > > --- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "petey_racer" <petey_racer@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Because it is Drawing 23 amps and WILL trip a 20A breaker eventually.
> > > >
> > > > The old one may not have been 5500 watts. It may have been 4500 watts.
> > > > No matter, even a 4500 watt unit must be on a (25A or) 30A circuit with at least #10cu wire. Yours MUST be on a 30A.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "waspangle" <waspangle@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Hello learned DIYers,
> > > > >
> > > > > I've got a 6 month-old 80 gal. elec water heater that tripped the double-pole 20 amp breaker. It may have happened twice over a 24 or 48 hour period, the facts are a little unclear here.
> > > > >
> > > > > This unit is rated at 5500/4130 watts, which means it should probably be on a 30 amp circuit. The similar 80 gal heater that this one replaced operated trouble free on this circuit for 7 years. It appears that the wire from the "little gray box" timer to the heater is 10 guage...if it is 12g, replacing with 10 will be no problem. Hopefully a 10g runs from breaker to timer.
> > > > >
> > > > > So, any theories on why it would start tripping this (undersized) breaker now?
> > > > >
> > > > > Many thanks for your input,
> > > > >
> > > > > -Wayne
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>

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Re: [DIY] Back of dryer is hot

 

Thanks all. I will take this seriously now and check all points listed. I like the size and it did come with brackets so if I get an ok from repair/cleaner I can have them do it. Knobs are all at front. Of course if age is a problem I will instead buy smaller stackable.

--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Chmelik" <Chmelik@...> wrote:
>
> First, get rid of the Flex duct, second use a rigid duct (metal), next while
> you have the flex off and the dryer out and unplugged, open it up and clean
> inside it. Your dryer should NOT burn you when you touch it, you have a
> blockage somewhere, and flex ducts burn...
> Ck
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Tori
> Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2012 3:16 AM
> To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DIY] Back of dryer is hot
>
> Is it ok/normal for the top-rear of the dryer to be so hot it burns to the
> touch? I really should not put anything on top, is that correct? I have a
> foil coiled flex tube for the duct leading outside to small vent. Is there
> any routine maintenance that should be done with those items. Have not had
> any repairs for 10 years. The machines are 14 years old.
>
> Also, is there an issue re: stacking a full size dryer on top of full size
> front load washer? Really would like to rearrange current layout. It
> claims to be do-able per the manual.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Please send decorating questions to Interior Motives List - to subscribe
> send an email to: Interior_Motives-subscribe@yahoogroups.com Yahoo! Groups
> Links
>

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Re: [DIY] Re: Water heater tripping circuit breaker

 

what does the nameplate on the water heater tell us? please check the nameplate and see if it gives a minimum amperage required. most 40 gallon water heaters require a 240 volt 30 amp circuit; logically, an 80 gallon water heater will require at least that much, possibly more according to its recovery rate. a 30 amp 2 pole breaker is fairly inexpensive in most cases, please just be sure you have an existing wire that will handle it. if you can find a friend with an 'amp clamp' style meter that will measure the amperage on each leg might solve this dilemna. if not, call an electrician!

---

From: petey_racer <petey_racer@yahoo.com>
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2012 5:06 PM
Subject: [DIY] Re: Water heater tripping circuit breaker

 

Exactly.
A water heater is a resistance heat load. The lower the voltage the lower the wattage and thus the lower the amperage. The resistance is the constant.

--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, Lee Griffith <ldgriff2001@...> wrote:
>
> I don't think wattage is the independent variable in the equation V*I=Watts. By your reasoning, if the voltage dropped towards zero then the current would rise to an infinite level which is not possible with fixed resistance in the heating coils. Perhaps it might be better to think of the wattage as being calculated from (V*V)/R = Watts. Then if you knew the resistance, you could see the power drawn at different voltage levels and then relate that wattage to the current at each voltage level.
>
> -Lee
>
> On Mar 28, 2012, at 5:19 AM, wired wrote:
>
> > Yes this is correct. Most water heaters are 4500 watts (18 amps), but some are 5600 watts (23 amps). Some are even less than 4500 watts (rare). National electrical code requires #10 wire and a 30 amp breaker. Another issue recently occurring in Texas at least is that the power companies are lowering the voltage causing an appliance to pull more amperage. Watts divided by voltage gives amperage so less voltage gives more amperage. 126/252 volts was once common, but now it is 120/240 volts.
> >
> > --- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "petey_racer" <petey_racer@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Because it is Drawing 23 amps and WILL trip a 20A breaker eventually.
> > >
> > > The old one may not have been 5500 watts. It may have been 4500 watts.
> > > No matter, even a 4500 watt unit must be on a (25A or) 30A circuit with at least #10cu wire. Yours MUST be on a 30A.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "waspangle" <waspangle@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hello learned DIYers,
> > > >
> > > > I've got a 6 month-old 80 gal. elec water heater that tripped the double-pole 20 amp breaker. It may have happened twice over a 24 or 48 hour period, the facts are a little unclear here.
> > > >
> > > > This unit is rated at 5500/4130 watts, which means it should probably be on a 30 amp circuit. The similar 80 gal heater that this one replaced operated trouble free on this circuit for 7 years. It appears that the wire from the "little gray box" timer to the heater is 10 guage...if it is 12g, replacing with 10 will be no problem. Hopefully a 10g runs from breaker to timer.
> > > >
> > > > So, any theories on why it would start tripping this (undersized) breaker now?
> > > >
> > > > Many thanks for your input,
> > > >
> > > > -Wayne
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
>

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Re: [DIY] chimney leak

 

if your chimney  does not have a cap on it when it rains the rain can weep from the inside to the outside of the chimney.

---

From: Tom <chtom@aol.com>
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 2:41 PM
Subject: [DIY] chimney leak

 

I have read the other threads about chimney leaks. they don't seem to address my problem.

I have a 40 year old house. I have the orginal roof. the flashing around the chimney seems to be inset in the brick. I have added sealer to the flashing. I have also resealed the shingles to the flashing. I am still get leaks in a hard rain. The water seems to flow down the outside of the brick and come down exterior of the chimney into tliving room.

I am open to suggestions.

Tom C.

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[DIY] Re: Water heater tripping circuit breaker

 

Exactly.
A water heater is a resistance heat load. The lower the voltage the lower the wattage and thus the lower the amperage. The resistance is the constant.

--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, Lee Griffith <ldgriff2001@...> wrote:
>
> I don't think wattage is the independent variable in the equation V*I=Watts. By your reasoning, if the voltage dropped towards zero then the current would rise to an infinite level which is not possible with fixed resistance in the heating coils. Perhaps it might be better to think of the wattage as being calculated from (V*V)/R = Watts. Then if you knew the resistance, you could see the power drawn at different voltage levels and then relate that wattage to the current at each voltage level.
>
> -Lee
>
> On Mar 28, 2012, at 5:19 AM, wired wrote:
>
> > Yes this is correct. Most water heaters are 4500 watts (18 amps), but some are 5600 watts (23 amps). Some are even less than 4500 watts (rare). National electrical code requires #10 wire and a 30 amp breaker. Another issue recently occurring in Texas at least is that the power companies are lowering the voltage causing an appliance to pull more amperage. Watts divided by voltage gives amperage so less voltage gives more amperage. 126/252 volts was once common, but now it is 120/240 volts.
> >
> > --- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "petey_racer" <petey_racer@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Because it is Drawing 23 amps and WILL trip a 20A breaker eventually.
> > >
> > > The old one may not have been 5500 watts. It may have been 4500 watts.
> > > No matter, even a 4500 watt unit must be on a (25A or) 30A circuit with at least #10cu wire. Yours MUST be on a 30A.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "waspangle" <waspangle@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hello learned DIYers,
> > > >
> > > > I've got a 6 month-old 80 gal. elec water heater that tripped the double-pole 20 amp breaker. It may have happened twice over a 24 or 48 hour period, the facts are a little unclear here.
> > > >
> > > > This unit is rated at 5500/4130 watts, which means it should probably be on a 30 amp circuit. The similar 80 gal heater that this one replaced operated trouble free on this circuit for 7 years. It appears that the wire from the "little gray box" timer to the heater is 10 guage...if it is 12g, replacing with 10 will be no problem. Hopefully a 10g runs from breaker to timer.
> > > >
> > > > So, any theories on why it would start tripping this (undersized) breaker now?
> > > >
> > > > Many thanks for your input,
> > > >
> > > > -Wayne
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
>

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Re: [DIY] Re: Water heater tripping circuit breaker

 

I don't think wattage is the independent variable in the equation V*I=Watts.  By your reasoning, if the voltage dropped towards zero then the current would rise to an infinite level which is not possible with fixed resistance in the heating coils. Perhaps it might be better to think of the wattage as being calculated from (V*V)/R = Watts. Then if you knew the resistance, you could see the power drawn at different voltage levels and then relate that wattage to the current at each voltage level.

-Lee

On Mar 28, 2012, at 5:19 AM, wired wrote:

 

Yes this is correct. Most water heaters are 4500 watts (18 amps), but some are 5600 watts (23 amps). Some are even less than 4500 watts (rare). National electrical code requires #10 wire and a 30 amp breaker. Another issue recently occurring in Texas at least is that the power companies are lowering the voltage causing an appliance to pull more amperage. Watts divided by voltage gives amperage so less voltage gives more amperage. 126/252 volts was once common, but now it is 120/240 volts.

--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "petey_racer" <petey_racer@...> wrote:
>
> Because it is Drawing 23 amps and WILL trip a 20A breaker eventually.
>
> The old one may not have been 5500 watts. It may have been 4500 watts.
> No matter, even a 4500 watt unit must be on a (25A or) 30A circuit with at least #10cu wire. Yours MUST be on a 30A.
>
>
>
> --- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "waspangle" <waspangle@> wrote:
> >
> > Hello learned DIYers,
> >
> > I've got a 6 month-old 80 gal. elec water heater that tripped the double-pole 20 amp breaker. It may have happened twice over a 24 or 48 hour period, the facts are a little unclear here.
> >
> > This unit is rated at 5500/4130 watts, which means it should probably be on a 30 amp circuit. The similar 80 gal heater that this one replaced operated trouble free on this circuit for 7 years. It appears that the wire from the "little gray box" timer to the heater is 10 guage...if it is 12g, replacing with 10 will be no problem. Hopefully a 10g runs from breaker to timer.
> >
> > So, any theories on why it would start tripping this (undersized) breaker now?
> >
> > Many thanks for your input,
> >
> > -Wayne
> >
>

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[DIY] Re: Water heater tripping circuit breaker

 

Yes this is correct. Most water heaters are 4500 watts (18 amps), but some are 5600 watts (23 amps). Some are even less than 4500 watts (rare). National electrical code requires #10 wire and a 30 amp breaker. Another issue recently occurring in Texas at least is that the power companies are lowering the voltage causing an appliance to pull more amperage. Watts divided by voltage gives amperage so less voltage gives more amperage. 126/252 volts was once common, but now it is 120/240 volts.

--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "petey_racer" <petey_racer@...> wrote:
>
> Because it is Drawing 23 amps and WILL trip a 20A breaker eventually.
>
> The old one may not have been 5500 watts. It may have been 4500 watts.
> No matter, even a 4500 watt unit must be on a (25A or) 30A circuit with at least #10cu wire. Yours MUST be on a 30A.
>
>
>
> --- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "waspangle" <waspangle@> wrote:
> >
> > Hello learned DIYers,
> >
> > I've got a 6 month-old 80 gal. elec water heater that tripped the double-pole 20 amp breaker. It may have happened twice over a 24 or 48 hour period, the facts are a little unclear here.
> >
> > This unit is rated at 5500/4130 watts, which means it should probably be on a 30 amp circuit. The similar 80 gal heater that this one replaced operated trouble free on this circuit for 7 years. It appears that the wire from the "little gray box" timer to the heater is 10 guage...if it is 12g, replacing with 10 will be no problem. Hopefully a 10g runs from breaker to timer.
> >
> > So, any theories on why it would start tripping this (undersized) breaker now?
> >
> > Many thanks for your input,
> >
> > -Wayne
> >
>

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[DIY] RE: Water heater tripping circuit breaker

 

Because it is Drawing 23 amps and WILL trip a 20A breaker eventually.

The old one may not have been 5500 watts. It may have been 4500 watts.
No matter, even a 4500 watt unit must be on a (25A or) 30A circuit with at least #10cu wire. Yours MUST be on a 30A.

--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "waspangle" <waspangle@...> wrote:
>
> Hello learned DIYers,
>
> I've got a 6 month-old 80 gal. elec water heater that tripped the double-pole 20 amp breaker. It may have happened twice over a 24 or 48 hour period, the facts are a little unclear here.
>
> This unit is rated at 5500/4130 watts, which means it should probably be on a 30 amp circuit. The similar 80 gal heater that this one replaced operated trouble free on this circuit for 7 years. It appears that the wire from the "little gray box" timer to the heater is 10 guage...if it is 12g, replacing with 10 will be no problem. Hopefully a 10g runs from breaker to timer.
>
> So, any theories on why it would start tripping this (undersized) breaker now?
>
> Many thanks for your input,
>
> -Wayne
>

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