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30 August 2016
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29 August 2016
[DIY] Re: Runroom Roof Leaks
Well, I got it done. Actually, I hired someone I trust to do it and he came through in flying colors.
He was scheduled to come over and put the blackjack and rolled roofing ontop, so I was cutting one when he called and said he had a better idea. There is a probuct for roofs that is better for this situation: it's called weatherwatch - it's actually polypropylene roof underlayment that has an adhesive side. He put it on and the roof hasn't leaked since.
The only thing is: it needs to have a roller used on it immediately like lino - OK, they are vinyl sheeting, but I'm used to calling them lino. He waited till the end to roll it and by then there were a few bumps that were not easy to get out. This is the first time he's used that much (usually he only used it in roof valleys) so it was a learning experience for him too. But it doesn't leak. We've had several deluges since then and we are dry underneath. That's all that counts - my wife bought a futon for the room and we had to have it covered by a drop cloth every time it rained.
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Posted by: Ron Johnson <l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com>
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27 August 2016
Re: [DIY] Propane burners
It did come (back) to my memory today (LOL) that when we were shopping for our gas range, I was greatly surprised to see the difference in the burner BTUs rating between residential ranges, and commercial ranges. Even a big diff between burners on the same range top. It does make sense when you consider commercial pot sizes versus residential. BTW, your place sounds wonderful, hope you get to enjoy it in good health for many, many, many years.
---In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, <oakridgefarm@...> wrote :
I sure will once I have someone out, I was in hopes it would be something simple like the color of the flame or how fast it burned etc. It may be just the conversion to propane although it didn't mention that in the materials. Right now, it isn't a priority since we can still cook on it.
We did a lot in a very short time, converting 1500' from a barn into a home and yes - there were some bumps in the road. Overall though, it's all getting worked out and everyone is amazed when they walk into the "barn" LOL. Workers who were here at the beginning and come back out for a reason always ask if they can bring their wives out. Other than the big window where the barn doors originally moved back and forth- and still can, it looks just like a big white barn. I leave the antique light burning in the upstairs window at night since it gives it a dramatic look. They finally got the oversized double doors installed Wednesday and again, we still have some work to do but they are very dramatic looking. We got them at Habitat for $125 and had to give $1000 to install them, but they do look great. After the jam, thresh hold, etc were added, there is just a 10"+ opening above the 8' doors so we have decided to simply install a double pane of glass & I'll paint some decor on it. The old hardware is gorgeous, so we decided to keep it and get a locksmith out to rekey the lock. And that's the end till we save up some more money. If you remember the old movie The Money Pit, I know exactly how they feel. I would love to have my horses in the stalls on the other side of the double doors but my husband prefers that area be his workshop :) We've now got a 2500' two story home with an additional 1000' at the back. Overall, we're happy with it and it's fun to see peoples face when they walk in.
On Aug 25, 2016, at 11:13 AM, pumps2fix@... [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Terry, I just hope "oakridge" posts the results of her problem.....Pumps
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Posted by: THenne1713@aol.com
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Re: [DIY] Screw won't come out. [1 Attachment]
[Attachment(s) from Steve Wilson included below]
Having a little trouble understanding the exact situation but it sounds like one of the screws holding hinges on is stuck and the phillips screw head is stripped. If the screws were 316 stainless steel, that stuff work hardens and can be very difficult to drill. You want to keep your drill speeds slow and be sure you have a sharp bit.
With these extractor bits you first drill a little with the drill bit end in reverse, then turn the bit around in the drill and use the extractor end in reverse. Keep your drill speed slow and don't over torque or the extractor may snap off. When drilling, specially stainless don't let your drill bit get hot, you'll loose the temper of the bits tip and it won't cut after that.
Stainless steel, specially the 316 variety is very hard to work with. But these are rated for it.
I've had a lot of success with these Sears Craftsman screw extractors: Model#720SR
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-7-pc-drill-out-screw-out-power-extractors/p-00952157000P
I included a picture here: Should be some Sears extractor bits, might not stay attached.
They drill and extract in reverse. The smaller ones do small screws pretty well. The drill end just makes a perfect landing spot for the extractor end. Doesn't take much drilling for them to grip.
Steve
On 8/27/2016 1:17 AM, greatyoga@yahoo.com [DoIt_Yourself] wrote:
I am making some builtin cabinets. I started putting on 3 1/2" Gatehouse brass door hinges on. One was not right so I started to back out I had a very hard time getting 3 of them out. One would not come out at all and is still in the wood. The reason they were hard or would not come out is because they were defective. The Phillips screwdriver it would only go in no more than 1/16". I looked at the screw heads and it looks like the notches are filled with glue and the glue hardened so I could not grip into the heads. I am not saying it is glue but i could not get the screw bits into the heads. I tried to drill the last one out and broke a titanium bit.. I used a brand new bit and drilled and drilled and drilled for at least 10 minutes and I may be in 1/8"/ I am using a Milwaukee 1/2" drill and I have used it on steel before. This is brass so I thought it would be easier to drill out. I also used an Alden screw extractor a nd the end just spins in the hole. Does anyone have any ideas on how to get it out?
Thanks,GB
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Attachment(s) from Steve Wilson | View attachments on the web
1 of 1 Photo(s)
Posted by: Steve Wilson <virtualwilz@yahoo.com>
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[DIY] Screw won't come out.
I am making some builtin cabinets. I started putting on 3 1/2" Gatehouse brass door hinges on. One was not right so I started to back out I had a very hard time getting 3 of them out. One would not come out at all and is still in the wood. The reason they were hard or would not come out is because they were defective. The Phillips screwdriver it would only go in no more than 1/16". I looked at the screw heads and it looks like the notches are filled with glue and the glue hardened so I could not grip into the heads. I am not saying it is glue but i could not get the screw bits into the heads. I tried to drill the last one out and broke a titanium bit.. I used a brand new bit and drilled and drilled and drilled for at least 10 minutes and I may be in 1/8"/ I am using a Milwaukee 1/2" drill and I have used it on steel before. This is brass so I thought it would be easier to drill out. I also used an Alden screw extractor a nd the end just spins in the hole. Does anyone have any ideas on how to get it out?
Thanks,
GB
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Posted by: greatyoga@yahoo.com
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Please send decorating questions to Interior Motives List - to subscribe send an email to: Interior_Motives-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
.
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Re: [DIY] Propane burners
I sure will once I have someone out, I was in hopes it would be something simple like the color of the flame or how fast it burned etc. It may be just the conversion to propane although it didn't mention that in the materials. Right now, it isn't a priority since we can still cook on it.
We did a lot in a very short time, converting 1500' from a barn into a home and yes - there were some bumps in the road. Overall though, it's all getting worked out and everyone is amazed when they walk into the "barn" LOL. Workers who were here at the beginning and come back out for a reason always ask if they can bring their wives out. Other than the big window where the barn doors originally moved back and forth- and still can, it looks just like a big white barn. I leave the antique light burning in the upstairs window at night since it gives it a dramatic look. They finally got the oversized double doors installed Wednesday and again, we still have some work to do but they are very dramatic looking. We got them at Habitat for $125 and had to give $1000 to install them, but they do look great. After the jam, thresh hold, etc were added, there is just a 10"+ opening above the 8' doors so we have decided to simply install a double pane of glass & I'll paint some decor on it. The old hardware is gorgeous, so we decided to keep it and get a locksmith out to rekey the lock. And that's the end till we save up some more money. If you remember the old movie The Money Pit, I know exactly how they feel. I would love to have my horses in the stalls on the other side of the double doors but my husband prefers that area be his workshop :) We've now got a 2500' two story home with an additional 1000' at the back. Overall, we're happy with it and it's fun to see peoples face when they walk in.
On Aug 25, 2016, at 11:13 AM, pumps2fix@yahoo.com [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Terry, I just hope "oakridge" posts the results of her problem.....Pumps
__._,_.___
Posted by: "oakridgefarm@gmail.com" <oakridgefarm@gmail.com>
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With 4.5 stars in iTunes, the Yahoo Mail app is the highest rated email app on the market. What are you waiting for? Now you can access all your inboxes (Gmail, Outlook, AOL and more) in one place. Never delete an email again with 1000GB of free cloud storage.
Please send decorating questions to Interior Motives List - to subscribe send an email to: Interior_Motives-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
.
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26 August 2016
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