PLEASE do not bring politics into it. That is NOT what the basis of this code is about.
If there is a fault on the neutral wire, and the range has a neutral/ground bond as in a 3-wire circuit, then it is entirely possible that the frame of the range or dryer will carry current. Add in a fault or open on the neutral of the circuit and YOU might become a path for the current back to it's source.
--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, Seymour Dupa <grumpy_44134@...> wrote:
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> So WHY can it not continue to serve both functions [other than some politician decidesit shouldn't]?
> The 'electricity' would continue to do the same thing it did before, wouldn't it?
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> >A 120/240v range or dryer ALWAYS required a neutral. It was the ground that was allowed to be omitted. The neutral served both functions in an older "3-wire" setup.
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> >--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "wired" <wiredformen@> wrote:
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> >> One more fact about ranges/cook tops and the white and bare (or green) wires. Before a few years ago, the green (bare) and white were put together and the male cap was 3 prong. Now they have to be separated and use a 4 prong cap (for those having a white (neutral) wire). Often the older appliances came with the two wires attached together.
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> >> --- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "hapennyherald" <hapennyherald@> wrote:
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> >> > Have something I am uncertain about. The wiring to a stove top is 3 wire + ground Has Black Red White and a smaller bare. The cook top has Black Red Green all insulated.
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> >> > My inclnation is Black to Black Red to Red and White to Green (since the white and ground are attached to the same bar in the panel) and attach the bare wire to the metal box ( since metal boxes have to be grounded.
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> >> > Also would you advise wiring an outlet or hardwiring?
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> >> > Thanks David
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