Most likely a mix of the most hardy weeds will grow back. Hard to say if the existing grass will grow, depends on the type it was, you'd have to water, maybe try a little B1, B1 is supposed to promote root growth. Feed the grass lightly after watering it very well. Adding fertilizer before the ground is wet is likely to burn the existing grass roots. Don't overdo fertilizer and you may have a chance of getting it to come back. Reseeding is the best way to get results but depending on your latitude this may be too early in the year. Don't seed until the chance of frost or freezing has passed. Many of the fertilizers for grass have weed killers for undesirable types of plants. That helps the desirable types of grass to grow.
I had Fesque grass, I have a big shade tree in the front yard. The front yard doesn't get that much sun. The type of Fesque I had needed a lot of water. When I water something comes back but I don't think its so much the Fesque. A lot of bluegrass varieties are really drought tolerant. Depends on how long the grass has been without water and the type of grass it is.
Won't hurt to water and see what happens.
I only mention all this because around 1997 I went wild putting in a lawn. I remember some of what I learned.
Steve
On 1/28/2012 1:04 PM, subprong wrote:
Interesting blade. I had no idea such a thing existed. Smart idea. Even smarter idea on your out of the box idea to redesign something to last longer.
I will not be adding any new grass or applying any new seed. I guess what I'm wondering is whether new grass will naturally grow back if I rip out the old brown, matted grass.
On Sat, Jan 28, 2012 at 2:32 PM, S_Wilson <virtualwilz@yahoo.com> wrote:
What I did on my rotary mower is put a thatching blade on it. The thatching blade tears up all the dead grass. Makes a dusty mess though but its easier than raking.
The thatching blade I got used a couple of springs that dragged on the lawn. Those didn't last very long. There were some holes in the blade so I mounted some hardened bolts on the blade with locknuts. The bolts extended an inch or so below the blade and did the job of tearing all the old grass and matting out. That lasted a lot longer than the original springs. You have to tighten the bolts with lock washers, very tight. If they got launched they would do some damage.
This is what the thatching blade looked like:
http://www.amazon.com/ACE-UNIVERSAL-DE-THATCHING-BLADE-KIT/dp/B000H5Y7SO
I found it in a home improvement store in the 90's. Not sure what might be available now.
Different areas are going to have different problems with ground compaction. A soil that has a high clay content is going to harden like cement. If you have a soil that is easier to dig in you may not have much problem. Water and root penetration is easier with looser soils. Water for a 10 minutes then wait an hour, then water another 10 minutes. Give it a chance to soak in, compacted soils tend to runoff water more than they absorb.
After you de-thatch, soak it deep. If the water doesn't absorb you may need to rototill and amend the soil with sand and composted soil amendments. That is where it becomes not so easy.
I went through all that many years ago but then we started having water crisis's. I ended up turning the sprinklers off and have had no lawn in the past several years. The water bill is a lot lower now. New lawns are easy enough to start up but they require constant attention and watering once they're started. Since the failed economy that lawn status has fallen by the wayside, survival is more important.
Steve
On 1/28/2012 11:34 AM, subprong wrote:Thank you, Ande. I'll do that. Should I do a light rake to simply move the off of the ground, or should I rake with force trying to pull the brown grass and roots out?
On Sat, Jan 28, 2012 at 11:04 AM, westande <westande@gmail.com> wrote:
Yes indeed rake it up! Aerating your lawn is always a good idea. If your lawn is matted it will indeed choke out new seedlings/growth from emerging. You can use a heavy steel rake to break up the mats and to go for broke you can also rent an aerator to take plugs out of the lawn. Leaving matted ground cover down year after year is not good for any lawn.
Ande
Who wishes she had more time for her gardening
--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, subprong <subprong@...> wrote:
>
> We had a big drought over the summer which caused the grass to turn brown
> which is pretty much par for the course anyway. However in the fall when
> it rained it poured. Several times. Flooding. This caused the brown
> grass to flatten and it's pretty much matted to the ground. I'm wondering
> if this will inhibit fresh spring grass from popping up. Should I rake
> over it to break it up or will pulling up and out the roots cause more
> damage? Or will things pop up on their own just fine naturally? Any
> ideas. Thx.
>
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