is the gap too wide to just lay down a layer of caulking?
-aki
From: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Tori
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2012 11:24 AM
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DIY] Re: Eaves
I recently learned the term "proud"- projects forward/outward, actually the gutter is proud which is why the water falls behind it. The drip is very tightly and securely glued to the roof edge. In fact so tight that I dont see how Im gonna get flashing behind it. Going back to check it out. There remains a gap betsween gutter and fascia that I cud tighten with screws for sake of reduction in the flow behind it, however, the drip isnt even close enough to that, rain will likely still mostly fall behind the crevice that remains. Im gonna check my other gutters. I dont believe gutters are as plumb to fascia as drip which is why the drip has to overlap the top rear of gutter.?
--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, JEFFREY WILLIAMS <livhosaere62@...> wrote:
>
> if you plan to replace the gutter nails with screws then possibly you can make blocks out of pt lumber to make your gutters stand proud so the water drip into the gutter than behind them,it is hard to call without pics
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Tori <fertilegrnd@...>
> To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2012 2:53 AM
> Subject: [DIY] Re: Eaves
>
>
> Â
> It looks like my quick, cheap option is to buy a roll of flashing, trim the width and screw it onto the drip edge and fascia, it will go under the drip and over the gutter so that the rain will reach the gutter rather than behind it. If anyone foresees a problem with this method please share. I did confirm the problem was as I thought by taking hose to the roof and watching it pour around drip edge behind gutter. BTW, I had not clarified as I didnt realize til I rechecked, this is additionally a problem area as the roof is not shingled but a flat asphalt roof section, so the roof edge does not really overhang much but enough to go over the very tightly attached underside drip. It would be more work/ damage risk for me to replace drip or gutter. Also, I considered adding more brackets or replacing the spikes with gutter screws but I cant see how that would really make diff as the slope is just fine so its not a sag but rather the back edge of gutter
> is not plumb to the fascia.
>
> --- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "Tori" <fertilegrnd@> wrote:
> >
>
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