Cartoon Network

30 September 2014

Re: [DIY] Re: pre-built sheds

 

Hi I am considering one of the units for a small home this spring.  Any help would be greatly appreciated 

thanks John.

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Posted by: johntfin@yahoo.com
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Re: [DIY] Wood Chipper

 

I have a Sears Craftsman 5 hp chipper. I always cut green wood. Dry does chip a little better but the only trouble I had was with some pieces jamming in the cutters. Always had to disassemble it to clear the jam. There are two chutes in mine. One for smaller branches under about 1 inch in diameter and the other for limbs up to about 3 inches in diameter. The chute for the large branches had wedged blades that mounted on a flywheel and the smaller chute had another blade that was like a mini lawnmower blade. Both would jam if something fed into them and wedged. It usually stalled when it jammed, there was no other choice but to disassemble it to clear the jam.
I used to have several trees I had to trim yearly, it came in handy then. But 10 years or so ago I got rid of the last tree. The chipped wood along with grass cuttings and brown leaves made for some tremendous mulch. But it was a lot of work.
You may have to learn how to disassemble and reassemble it for when those jams happen.
Be careful they can be a man eater. I never had any accidents with mine but it was always on my mind.
Try to find a manual for it. It would be really helpful for manufacturers recommendations for cutting and troubleshooting.
Steve

On 9/29/2014 6:55 PM, Joyce O theoldhen@gmail.com [DoIt_Yourself] wrote:
 

We just bought a Huskee 7 HP Wood Chipper at an auction. Looking for any information on how to use it.  

I read on line to only put dried out sticks and small branches into it. 

So ...no freshly cut branches?

Any other information will be greatly appreciated. 



Joyce aka Mom aka Nana


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Posted by: Steve Wilson <virtualwilz@yahoo.com>
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[DIY] Wood Chipper

 


We just bought a Huskee 7 HP Wood Chipper at an auction. Looking for any information on how to use it.  

I read on line to only put dried out sticks and small branches into it. 

So ...no freshly cut branches?

Any other information will be greatly appreciated. 



Joyce aka Mom aka Nana

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Posted by: Joyce O <theoldhen@gmail.com>
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25 September 2014

[DIY] Good Crawl Space Construction (Part I)

 

Posted by: wduke2@aol.com

> We are building our own home in Wyoming.

Hello (name?)

While Wyoming does not have a mandatory statewide
residential building code, you should still use the IRC
or similar code as your minimum standard. In general,
the codes are a good minimum. But, for crawl spaces,
due to the dangers they can cause, to your house, and
to your health, even code minimums are often not
good enough.

> The water table is pretty high so we opted for a 4'
> crawl space instead of a basement.

You might consider pouring a slab floor in it, and maybe
adding a course or two of block, so that it can function
as a storage space, like a low-ceiling basement. Make
sure, if it is below grade, that there is ample drainage.

> Do we need to lay down plastic and then gravel
> on all the open spaces?

Definitely the plastic...definitely definitely definitely definitely.

Without it, your crawl space can be an extremely nasty place,
that can rot out your floor and spread its nastiness up into the
air of your living space (and you family's lungs) all heating
season, when the warmth of the house (and the crawl) acts
like a chimney. The plastic should be continuous (all joints
lapped 6" and taped) up the sidewalls to the underside of
the floor. The crawlspace side walls should probably also
be insulated (details may vary). Treating the crawlspace
as a low ceiling basement is the best strategy. Vent it to
the house instead of to outdoors.

> over the gravel

Usually gravel is not necessary, and gravel on top of the
plastic may put it at risk of punctures, as also does gravel
under it if you walk on it. So, use heavy plastic (min 6mil)

> Do we need to vent it if we do?

A crawlspace needs to be vented, either to outdoor (the
traditional way which is inferior, and is not backed by any
science) or to the house interior, with the crawlspace insul-
-ated around the perimeter, like a basement (much better).

> Posted by: "Ron Johnson" l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com

> A vapor barrior is important when the water seeps
> up like that.

You are correct, and it is always important for house air quality.
Exposed ground and ground moisture can release molds, and
radon. If radon is prevalent in the area, it would also be wise
to install vented tubing under the plastic, to vent to outdoors.

> Yes, I would vent it. Because of the high water table,
> you may even have floods down there on rainy years.

If it is at risk of flooding, and there is not potential
to "drain to daylight" a sump pump should be installed.

Posted by: "Dale S" dalu@hbcomm.net

> houses can be entirely too tight in my opinion,
> but that is just me.

> Dale in the Flatlands. "Why waste time
> learning when ignorance is instantaneous."

Hi Dale;

It is just you. I recommend doing a little "learning" on
this subject. Then, I suspect, as the intelligent person
you are, that you will stop making that comment.

Briefly, let's look at the characteristics of a "tight house"
It means a house that doesn't leak moist air through walls
and other places that are inappropriate for ventilation. It
doesn't mean that the interior is unventilated. Tight houses
are house that are ventilated in healthy ways, rather than
by unhealthy leaks. Leaky houses are unhealthy houses,
because they allow warm humid air to get inside of the
walls and ceilings, to colder surfaces (below the dew
point temperature) to deposit moisture, and grow mold,
mildew, rot, and feed vermin. Radon may be another
unhealthy feature of a leaky house. Of course, having
a very drafty house, with no insulation, and an inefficient
old furnace, also may not feed mold. But, it will waste
several times more fuel to heat, and will clean out your
wallet, while contributing to damaging the environment..

> I like a little fresh air exchange during the winter instead
> of waiting for a warm day to air out the house.

Then, what you want is a "tight house" so that you do
not have to breath moldy air that comes in through leaks
in damp floors and walls. Try researching what a "tight
house" actually means, before you make comments that
could mislead others in to think things that simply are not
true. Tight houses are not unvented houses. Instead, they
are healthy ventilated houses, that don't rely on careless
inconsistent leaks, through walls and ceilings,to ventilate
them (which will inevitably create mold issues, in most
climates). Leaky homes also let in pests, through their
cracks.

Tight houses have vent systems, often with heat exchangers
to remove heat, from the out going stale air, and transfer it
to the incoming fresh air (and exchange cooling in Summer).
These HRVs (Heat Recovery Ventilators) are already
required in some code jurisdictions, along with a require-
-ment for the houses to be built tightly, and even have to
pass a blower door test. These construction standards
will likely be required in all code jurisdictions, soon.

All bathrooms and kitchens should have vents to
outdoors, to exhausts excess moisture, These vents
should be used every time that moisture producing
activities take place (showers, stove cooking, etc).
The focus of healthy houses is on moisture control.
They are not dry in Winter, and use the ventilation
systems to keep their humidity levels healthy, for
both the occupants, and the house. A house will
not be healthy if it has leaky insulated walls and
ceilings. Excess moisture should be exhausted
from the living space, via ducts rather than ending
up condensing inside of walls and ceilings, to feed
mold. A leaky house is either an unhealthy house,
or an extremely energy wasteful house, or a mix
of the two problems. Only a "tight house" (meaning
minimal uncontrolled air leakage through the insulation
envelope) can be a healthy house. Leaky walls and
ceilings lead to mold, mildew and rot. Radon should
also be dealt with, by dedicated venting, before it
enters the living space, and your breathing air.

Here is an article on "How tight is tight enough?"
As is mine, their conclusion is, for new houses,
"a house can never be too tight" and for existing
houses, a more complicated, individual, economic
formula needs to be used, in deciding what to do.

<
http://www.energyvanguard.com/blog-building-science-HERS-BPI/bid/52450/How-Much-Air-Leakage-in-Your-Home-Is-Too-Much >

Good Crawl Space Construction (Part II) to follow...........

Have questions? Please ask.

-Laren Corie-
Natural Solar Building Design and
Solar Heating/Natural Cooling/Energy
Efficiency Consultation Since 1975
(Very economical, Anywhere, via
internet, phone, pictures, video, etc)
www.ThermalAttic.com (many new
photos and pages, coming very soon)

Read my Solar house design articles in:
-Energy Self-Sufficiency Newsletter-
http://www.dongrays.com/essn/

Home base-LittleHouses YahooGroup
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/LittleHouses/

Founder-WoodGas - Power from wood
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WoodGas

Founder-RefrigeratorAlternatives YahooGroup
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RefrigeratorAlternatives

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Posted by: "LarenCorie" <larencorie@axilar.net>
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Re: [DIY] Re: Crawl Space

 

I use a medium box fan cowled to a vent port and a 24 hour timer..

essentially zero failure in last 10 years!

 
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Forever bonded We Band of Brothers
 
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From: "pumps2fix@yahoo.com [DoIt_Yourself]" <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com>
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2014 1:03 PM
Subject: [DIY] Re: Crawl Space

 
Automatic air vents have a high failure rate....I prefer manual ones.....
The vents are effected by weather conditions and have to be sprayed
with silicone or WD-40 in order to improve their "open/close" movement....
Pumps


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Posted by: Mountain Master <mountain953346@yahoo.com>
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RE: [DIY] Re: Crawl Space

 

Why not just connect the vent to an ABS riser on the south side of the house?  As the sun heats the pipe, it'll suck air out of the basement.
 

To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
From: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2014 13:03:51 -0700
Subject: [DIY] Re: Crawl Space

 
Automatic air vents have a high failure rate....I prefer manual ones.....
The vents are effected by weather conditions and have to be sprayed
with silicone or WD-40 in order to improve their "open/close" movement....
Pumps

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Posted by: Ron Johnson <l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com>
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[DIY] Re: Crawl Space

 

Automatic air vents have a high failure rate....I prefer manual ones.....
The vents are effected by weather conditions and have to be sprayed
with silicone or WD-40 in order to improve their "open/close" movement....
Pumps

__._,_.___

Posted by: pumps2fix@yahoo.com
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24 September 2014

[DIY] You will be able to wear the clothes you want

 

Good change is always good. http://pebblecottageholidays.co.uk/enowu/?hu360

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Posted by: Bill Chmelik <chmelik@earthlink.net>
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Re: [DIY] Re: pre-built sheds

 

For all those out there who want to buy the quick-fix for tool sheds to "extended-living" space with a pre-fab shed, PLEASE contact me first for some sound advice concerning permits.
carmen

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Posted by: "carmen s." <mom2mini@bellsouth.net>
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[DIY] Re: Crawl Space

 

and automatic/ thermostatic air vents will save you much time/ worry/ inconvenience
 
Terry/ Memphis

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Posted by: THenne1713@aol.com
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23 September 2014

[DIY] Re: cabinet door hinge

 

If you cabinet doors are "recessed" relocation of the hinges will not solve
the problem....I suspect the application of paint both to the "lips" of the
cabinet frame and door edges have prevented the doors from closing.....
My suggestion is to removed the new paint from these edges and apply
a coat of stain.....The stain should be of a similar color as the paint so
as to blend in.....Greatly thinning the paint with water or solvent can also
be used in stead of a stain....Pumps

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Posted by: pumps2fix@yahoo.com
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Re: [DIY] cabinet door hinge

 

send pic of hinges  or google the brand name of the hinge

besides the mounting screws are there screws "inside" the hinges
that could be used to adjust depth of hinge closure?

they are called adjustable cam hinges

see link

 
 
____________________




Forever bonded We Band of Brothers
 
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Ad Inexplorata; De oppresso liber


From: "mayc@pgtc.com [DoIt_Yourself]" <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com>
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 6:56 AM
Subject: [DIY] cabinet door hinge

 
Have painted bathroom cabinet doors, now wont close properly,need to know how to adjust hinges, need to know ASAP.. husband headed to town to get new hinges and will be drilling new holes... YIKES

Maeleen


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Posted by: Mountain Master <mountain953346@yahoo.com>
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[DIY] cabinet door hinge

 

Have painted bathroom cabinet doors, now wont close properly,need to know how to adjust hinges, need to know ASAP.. husband headed to town to get new hinges and will be drilling new holes... YIKES


Maeleen

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Posted by: mayc@pgtc.com
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