Wow, you guys are all something, and Steve has also been sending me information. What a wealth of information on this forum. I'm going to read through these and make note of the steps and see if we can't get it working. I suspect these were commercial doors due to all the security locks, one upper and lower bolt on the right door edge that locks into the upper frame and the concrete floor, as well as a vertical slide bolt on the face of the door that goes up into a bracket on the frame. We have everything working now, at least from the inside but if you forget and shut the door you are locked out since we have no key, LOL. I promptly got myself locked out working on it - actually inside the barn - and my husband was gone so I just had to wait, but today, he did the same thing :) The door slides shut so gently you don't realize it till you hear the click. Rather than go back to duct tape we have tied a cord on the lever and run it under the door. I would be overjoyed if we can get this to work properly without having to call a locksmith. And yes, John, your thought on the panic lock is correct.
Hi Jan,
Thanks for the pictures and info on the mortise lockset.
From the numbers you posted, it would appear that your lock is configured for "Panic" exit, in other words, when the deadbolt is locked, turning the inside handle will unlock the door without the need to actually turn the deadbolt knob. This is a nice feature, required by most fire exits, but rarely found in residential applications because it costs extra.
Your lock is also arranged so that the outside handle can be immobilized by using the "stop button", located just below the latch. This type of knob or lever is almost always provided with a "shear pin" of some sort, to prevent someone from forcing the lock open by turning the outside handle.
I suspect that a broken shear pin is all that is wrong with your lock. The shear pin is most likely in the outside lever handle itself, not in the actual lock mechanism. If you remove the screws on the "inside" trim plate, you should be able to remove the inside trim assembly, including the handle. This will give you a chance to look over the assembly, and decide if you will be comfortable dismantling the trim assembly on the outside. You might also be able to remove the outside trim, but this is usually held in place by the lock cylinder.
If you are able to get this far without any problems, remove the two screws on the lock trim plate at the door edge. this will allow you to remove the trim plate, revealing the mounting screws and the locking screw for the lock cylinder (again, lots of you tube videos on this). Remove the lock cylinder, and also the outside trim assembly (trim plate and lever).
At this point, you should be able to find what is wrong with the lever handle (shear pin?). You can also measure the lock cylinder. Omnia shows most of their locks are supplied with the common "Schlage C" cylinder keyway, so any locksmith (and many hardware stores) can easily re-key the cylinder. However, you may find it less expensive to order a new lock cylinder on line ( I see many for $7-16).
These locks are actually fairly simple, and you should not be afraid to take it apart. there are many videos on YouTube showing how to do this. In this day of phone cameras, I usually just take several pictures as I dismantle the mechanism and look for the broken part.
Good luck, sounds like an interesting project.
John
Posted by: "oakridgefarm@gmail.com" <oakridgefarm@gmail.com>
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