RE: [DIY] Refrigerator leak, please help

 

that all depends *where* the leak is coming from. If it's in the line itself, then it will continue to leak no matter what position the icemaker arm is in.

 

Usually, if you follow the water line at the back of the refrigerator, you should find where the line is tapped into a copper pipe (often in the basement).  At the

tap, there should be a small cutoff that will completely cut off the water supply going to the refrigerator.  That's your best bet.

 

 

 

From: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of clean_boost
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2012 11:47 AM
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DIY] Refrigerator leak, please help

 

 

I found a water leak on the floor and it seems to be from the icemaker. Unfortunately, we are going away for a few weeks starting tomorrow, and cannot call in a plumber. If I turn OFF the icemaker (in other words, put it in the UP position so it does not make ice), would that temporarily solve the problem so that if it is in conjunction with the icemaker that will stop the passage of water? OR -- better yet -- should I shut the valve that leads to the icemaker, but I don't know which valve it is. Help, please.

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RE: [DIY] Erecting a 30' pole

 

I had DISH many years ago until I went to Verizon FIOS.  DISH was fine except in bad weather.  If there were severe thunderstorms

or heavy snowfall, we lost the signal...sometimes for as long as an hour.  Especially frustrating if you're watching the news *because*

of the severe snow/thunderstorm! LOL

 

With FIOS, being all underground fiber, we've never had problems losing the signal due to bad weather unless, of course, we completely

lose power.

 

 

 

From: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Pen Garner
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2012 11:27 AM
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DIY] Erecting a 30' pole

 

 

I’ve had both Dish and Direct.  Right now, I’m with Direct and love it.  Granted, I could go the less expensive route of an antenna, but I have 4 boxes in the house, 2 of which are HD, and a DVR for a little under $100 a month.  I’m happy with it.

 

From: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of larrysmail123
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2012 9:55 PM
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DIY] Erecting a 30' pole

 

 

Why do you want to get rid of direct tv? I have been considering direct tv or dish. I have comcast, it is very expensive. If you go from the basic 12 or so channels to the next level up it is like a $65.00 jump in price and if you add the digital channels that is about another $20.00 and the service in my area is not very good.

Anyone had experience with both direct and dish?

Thanks for you time...Larry

--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, Joan Romanowski <msromo1@...> wrote:
>
> I understand why you want to get rid of Directv.  I only wish I could
>
> --- On Thu, 9/20/12, carmen30534 <johnandcarmen@...> wrote:
>
>
> From: carmen30534 <johnandcarmen@...>
> Subject: [DIY] Erecting a 30' pole
> To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Thursday, September 20, 2012, 7:30 AM
>
>
>
>  
>
>
>
> We are tired of Direct TV and are going with an antennae for the local stations available in our area via satellite. Can someone suggest a way to mount a 30' pole to hold the antennae?
> We will be placing it in-between a house and a very close guest-trailer. We are trying to stay off of ladders as much as we can.
> carmen
>

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[DIY] Refrigerator leak, please help

 

I found a water leak on the floor and it seems to be from the icemaker. Unfortunately, we are going away for a few weeks starting tomorrow, and cannot call in a plumber. If I turn OFF the icemaker (in other words, put it in the UP position so it does not make ice), would that temporarily solve the problem so that if it is in conjunction with the icemaker that will stop the passage of water? OR -- better yet -- should I shut the valve that leads to the icemaker, but I don't know which valve it is. Help, please.

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Re: [DIY] Sanding floors

 

You will need 2 types of electric sanders.  A belt or drum type for the main areas and an orbital (circular) type to get close to the walls and cabinets.  Use the orbital one around the perimeter 1st, then use the drum sander getting as close as possible to the perimeter to smooth out the orbital sanding grooves back to 1 direction.  As to guidelines to techniques, I have only watched floor people do this on the job sites I work at. I have not done this myself since I was a teenager (now a senior citizen).
On 9/30/2012 9:51 AM, wduke2@aol.com wrote:

 

I am curious if my mail went through or not.   I had written about advice sanding my kitchen floor.  I did not get even one response.  Has no one ever sanded a wooden floor???  I was wondering how to sand around the edges of the bottom of my cabinets so they would not get scratched.  I have never used a commercial sander before.  I was hoping someone had any hints on how to use one and what to do or not do while trying to accomplish this project.  I am a little afraid.

 

Joan Ostler

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RE: [DIY] Erecting a 30' pole

 

I’ve had both Dish and Direct.  Right now, I’m with Direct and love it.  Granted, I could go the less expensive route of an antenna, but I have 4 boxes in the house, 2 of which are HD, and a DVR for a little under $100 a month.  I’m happy with it.

 

From: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of larrysmail123
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2012 9:55 PM
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DIY] Erecting a 30' pole

 

 

Why do you want to get rid of direct tv? I have been considering direct tv or dish. I have comcast, it is very expensive. If you go from the basic 12 or so channels to the next level up it is like a $65.00 jump in price and if you add the digital channels that is about another $20.00 and the service in my area is not very good.

Anyone had experience with both direct and dish?

Thanks for you time...Larry

--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, Joan Romanowski <msromo1@...> wrote:
>
> I understand why you want to get rid of Directv.  I only wish I could
>
> --- On Thu, 9/20/12, carmen30534 <johnandcarmen@...> wrote:
>
>
> From: carmen30534 <johnandcarmen@...>
> Subject: [DIY] Erecting a 30' pole
> To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Thursday, September 20, 2012, 7:30 AM
>
>
>
>  
>
>
>
> We are tired of Direct TV and are going with an antennae for the local stations available in our area via satellite. Can someone suggest a way to mount a 30' pole to hold the antennae?
> We will be placing it in-between a house and a very close guest-trailer. We are trying to stay off of ladders as much as we can.
> carmen
>

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Re: [DIY] Vinyl fence post question

 

I would think that ripping the 4x4's to fit and making sure that include 3ft (or more) for ground depth is the easiest, cheapest and most
direct way to get the posts mounted.  It's odd that the posts weren't standard 5x5.  Wonder what the manufacturer expected the consumer
to use for securing them?

On Sun, Sep 30, 2012 at 11:09 AM, David Cox <dcwired@att.net> wrote:

 

1 ft. in the ground is a waste of time for sure.  No way the fence  will stay there.
May I suggest an alternative to a new, longer post?  Dig a 3' deep hole and fill it with concrete up to 1' below the ground level (the depth your posts will extend down to).  Insert some type of rod or pipe in the center extending a foot or so above ground.  Drill a hole the size of the rod or pipe (say 1 1/4" diameter or so) into the bottom of the post and slide the post down onto the rod or pipe for support.
There is no good to come out of installing the post 1' into the ground.  If you have waited 3 years, you may have to wait a little longer to be able to get it done correctly.  You can begin working on the holes and concrete 1 at a time as money and time permits.  Patience is a virtue.


On 9/30/2012 7:09 AM, snafflesnshelties wrote:

 

Ron I thought that 3 feet was supposed to go in the ground?

Get new posts? Seriously? This IS the do it yourself list. If I had the money to buy new posts I wouldn't have to be on this yahoo list as a method to do things myself to save money. LOL

The posts like this would not be sold in Northern Illinois if they had to be longer. There must be a method to making them work.

I bought this fence for $100 3 years ago. 360 boards and the fenceline posts. Not the end posts. Those I will have to buy.

A 4x4 will not fit down inside. Too small. I also have 4 x 4's that were picked up at an auction.If I had to, I can buy a new sharp blade for my table saw and cut them down.

Get new posts is not the answer I am looking for. I was a stay at home mom for 3 years. I put up my fences mostly by myself. Built my horse stalls by myself, do my own animal vaccinations by myself, trim my horses feet, by myself etc etc etc. I have not bought any new clothes for me in 7 years. I buy all my clothes at thrift stores so I can make my home look like something someone else who makes more money and can afford to have a new vinyl fence installed.

Now.... does anyone know how vinyl fence post are installed in cold winter climates when the posts are manufactured short?

thank you
Joyce

--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, Ron Johnson <l0c0l0b0@...> wrote:
>
>
> Looks like you'll need to get longer posts. You need at least 2' in the ground and more if you anticipate high winds, large snow drifts, or stampeeding buffalos. I was able to get a vinyl 4x4 post cover to slip over my posts before I screwed in my vinyl fences into them. With a fancy post top, it looks good, though our littlest dog still slips through as if it wasn't there.
>
>
>
>
> To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
> From: snaffles@...
> Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2012 21:37:17 +0000
> Subject: [DIY] Vinyl fence post question
>
>
>
>
>
> We are getting ready to install the vinyl fence that we bought 3 years ago.
>
> I have a question on setting the post.
>
> If we position the post so there is 12 to 14 inches between the bottom of the bottom board, and the top of the ground, it only leaves 12 inches to set in the ground.
>
> That doesnt seem right. What about heaving in the winter?
>
> Joyce
>

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Re: [DIY] Vinyl fence post question

 

1 ft. in the ground is a waste of time for sure.  No way the fence  will stay there.
May I suggest an alternative to a new, longer post?  Dig a 3' deep hole and fill it with concrete up to 1' below the ground level (the depth your posts will extend down to).  Insert some type of rod or pipe in the center extending a foot or so above ground.  Drill a hole the size of the rod or pipe (say 1 1/4" diameter or so) into the bottom of the post and slide the post down onto the rod or pipe for support.
There is no good to come out of installing the post 1' into the ground.  If you have waited 3 years, you may have to wait a little longer to be able to get it done correctly.  You can begin working on the holes and concrete 1 at a time as money and time permits.  Patience is a virtue.


On 9/30/2012 7:09 AM, snafflesnshelties wrote:

 

Ron I thought that 3 feet was supposed to go in the ground?

Get new posts? Seriously? This IS the do it yourself list. If I had the money to buy new posts I wouldn't have to be on this yahoo list as a method to do things myself to save money. LOL

The posts like this would not be sold in Northern Illinois if they had to be longer. There must be a method to making them work.

I bought this fence for $100 3 years ago. 360 boards and the fenceline posts. Not the end posts. Those I will have to buy.

A 4x4 will not fit down inside. Too small. I also have 4 x 4's that were picked up at an auction.If I had to, I can buy a new sharp blade for my table saw and cut them down.

Get new posts is not the answer I am looking for. I was a stay at home mom for 3 years. I put up my fences mostly by myself. Built my horse stalls by myself, do my own animal vaccinations by myself, trim my horses feet, by myself etc etc etc. I have not bought any new clothes for me in 7 years. I buy all my clothes at thrift stores so I can make my home look like something someone else who makes more money and can afford to have a new vinyl fence installed.

Now.... does anyone know how vinyl fence post are installed in cold winter climates when the posts are manufactured short?

thank you
Joyce

--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, Ron Johnson <l0c0l0b0@...> wrote:
>
>
> Looks like you'll need to get longer posts. You need at least 2' in the ground and more if you anticipate high winds, large snow drifts, or stampeeding buffalos. I was able to get a vinyl 4x4 post cover to slip over my posts before I screwed in my vinyl fences into them. With a fancy post top, it looks good, though our littlest dog still slips through as if it wasn't there.
>
>
>
>
> To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
> From: snaffles@...
> Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2012 21:37:17 +0000
> Subject: [DIY] Vinyl fence post question
>
>
>
>
>
> We are getting ready to install the vinyl fence that we bought 3 years ago.
>
> I have a question on setting the post.
>
> If we position the post so there is 12 to 14 inches between the bottom of the bottom board, and the top of the ground, it only leaves 12 inches to set in the ground.
>
> That doesnt seem right. What about heaving in the winter?
>
> Joyce
>

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[DIY] Sanding floors

 

I am curious if my mail went through or not.   I had written about advice sanding my kitchen floor.  I did not get even one response.  Has no one ever sanded a wooden floor???  I was wondering how to sand around the edges of the bottom of my cabinets so they would not get scratched.  I have never used a commercial sander before.  I was hoping someone had any hints on how to use one and what to do or not do while trying to accomplish this project.  I am a little afraid.

 

Joan Ostler

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[DIY] Re: Exterior Hosebib Help

 

http://www.amazon.com/Trading-Melnor-346A-Metal-Hose-Connector/dp/B007L522JO
I bought a Melnor 346 metal 2-way hose connector
which I consider to be a shut-off valve so I
wouldn't have to use the old fashioned valve on
our 40+ year old house anymore.

This is an infinitely better design than a similar
product I bought at Home Depot.

I noticed mine at a Target store by accident while
looking for a replacement hose with my GF.

It cost approx $8 and this thing is so well designed
that I bought the entire Target inventory of 6 valves
to give to friends as gifts.

I knew as soon as I picked it up, that I would be
replacing the valve I bought a month before, when I
got home.

We have a garden and birdbaths, so I use the outside
hose a lot and I wanted something that would go
from completely open to completely shut in one turn
of my wrist and this device does that and more.

Bill Zardus
Delaware County, PA
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BackYard-Birds/
I am changing the focus of this group above to people
who want back-yard bird feeding tips, since no other
group is doing that.

--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com,
subprong <subprong@...> wrote:
>
> The 1/4 turn handle on my outdoor hosebib started to deteriorate a few
> months ago. The framed ring on the underneath the knob was falling apart
> and therefore was not properly seated around the turn nipple (sorry I don't
> have a better term) that sticks up into it. So it needed to be turned past
> its usual points to go completely on or off. Recently the water hadn't
> been turning on at full power.

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[DIY] Fence Post

 

No advice -- I haven't tried this project. But did want to tell Joyce that I admire her work. Keep it up! I have to do most of my own projects and it's nice to see other women do the same.

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Re: [DIY] Vinyl fence post question

 

Ron I thought that 3 feet was supposed to go in the ground?

Get new posts? Seriously? This IS the do it yourself list. If I had the money to buy new posts I wouldn't have to be on this yahoo list as a method to do things myself to save money. LOL

The posts like this would not be sold in Northern Illinois if they had to be longer. There must be a method to making them work.

I bought this fence for $100 3 years ago. 360 boards and the fenceline posts. Not the end posts. Those I will have to buy.

A 4x4 will not fit down inside. Too small. I also have 4 x 4's that were picked up at an auction.If I had to, I can buy a new sharp blade for my table saw and cut them down.

Get new posts is not the answer I am looking for. I was a stay at home mom for 3 years. I put up my fences mostly by myself. Built my horse stalls by myself, do my own animal vaccinations by myself, trim my horses feet, by myself etc etc etc. I have not bought any new clothes for me in 7 years. I buy all my clothes at thrift stores so I can make my home look like something someone else who makes more money and can afford to have a new vinyl fence installed.

Now.... does anyone know how vinyl fence post are installed in cold winter climates when the posts are manufactured short?

thank you
Joyce

--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, Ron Johnson <l0c0l0b0@...> wrote:
>
>
> Looks like you'll need to get longer posts. You need at least 2' in the ground and more if you anticipate high winds, large snow drifts, or stampeeding buffalos. I was able to get a vinyl 4x4 post cover to slip over my posts before I screwed in my vinyl fences into them. With a fancy post top, it looks good, though our littlest dog still slips through as if it wasn't there.
>
>
>
>
> To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
> From: snaffles@...
> Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2012 21:37:17 +0000
> Subject: [DIY] Vinyl fence post question
>
>
>
>
>
> We are getting ready to install the vinyl fence that we bought 3 years ago.
>
> I have a question on setting the post.
>
> If we position the post so there is 12 to 14 inches between the bottom of the bottom board, and the top of the ground, it only leaves 12 inches to set in the ground.
>
> That doesnt seem right. What about heaving in the winter?
>
> Joyce
>

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Re: [DIY] Erecting a 30' pole

 

Why do you want to get rid of direct tv? I have been considering direct tv or dish. I have comcast, it is very expensive. If you go from the basic 12 or so channels to the next level up it is like a $65.00 jump in price and if you add the digital channels that is about another $20.00 and the service in my area is not very good.

Anyone had experience with both direct and dish?

Thanks for you time...Larry

--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, Joan Romanowski <msromo1@...> wrote:
>
> I understand why you want to get rid of Directv.  I only wish I could
>
> --- On Thu, 9/20/12, carmen30534 <johnandcarmen@...> wrote:
>
>
> From: carmen30534 <johnandcarmen@...>
> Subject: [DIY] Erecting a 30' pole
> To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Thursday, September 20, 2012, 7:30 AM
>
>
>
>  
>
>
>
> We are tired of Direct TV and are going with an antennae for the local stations available in our area via satellite. Can someone suggest a way to mount a 30' pole to hold the antennae?
> We will be placing it in-between a house and a very close guest-trailer. We are trying to stay off of ladders as much as we can.
> carmen
>

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RE: [DIY] Exterior Hosebib Help

 

Steve,

 

The original poster described the cutoff as a 1/4 turn shutoff, which is different than the type valve you described.

 

For my 2 cents worth, just replace the whole valve.  I just did exactly that a couple of months ago.  Channel lock pliers and some teflon tape are all that is required.  The only difficulty is that the main water to the house must be shut off while the valve is replaced.  It is a 15 minute job and the expense is tiny.  My replacement valve also had an angled bib like the OP mentioned and it was a 1/4 turn valve. I liked it much better than the valve it replaced.

 

Bob

 

From: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Steve Wilson
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2012 9:49 AM
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DIY] Exterior Hosebib Help

 

 

At the bottom of the valve section there should be a metal seat. That seat may be replaceable. It requires a squared wrench that fits into the squared center of the seat, can be found at a hardware store. The seat may be removable if there is a squared center in it. It removes just like a screw, counter clockwise. You'll find replacements for it easily. Replace the seat, the rubber washer at the bottom of the valve assembly and screw that holds the washer. There should be a packing washer under the top nut on the valve assembly that may need replacing too.
A diagram I found that shows the assembly:
http://wetheadmedia.com/wp-content/uploads/pictures/2008/12/Faucet-Seat-and-washer-replacement-diagram.jpg

Steve

On 9/28/2012 11:24 PM, subprong wrote:

 

The 1/4 turn handle on my outdoor hosebib started to deteriorate a few months ago.  The framed ring on the underneath the knob was falling apart and therefore was not properly seated around the turn nipple (sorry I don't have a better term) that sticks up into it.  So it needed to be turned past its usual points to go completely on or off.  Recently the water hadn't been turning on at full power. 

I removed the handle/knob and screw and decided to turn the nipple with a wrench.  I was able to turn it on and off a couple of times.  Then as I'm trying to turn it off again it's taking at least 5 full revolutions until it finally shuts the water off.  After this I try to turn it back on.  After several turns it does not turn on again

Is this something that can be fixed without replacing the entire hosebib/spigot?  I assumed the nipple and waterflow turn piece below it would be 1 single piece and therefore shouldn't have any mechanisms below it to cause this.  I guess I'm wrong or I'm doing something wrong.

If the entire thing must be replaced, do you have any advice on a replacement hosebib and a type of pipe wrench(es) to get and what to look out for when taking it off and installing the new one?  I see that there are anti-syphoning varieties.  I don't think I'll need the frost-free types.  I do like the idea of some of the spigot mouths sitting at a 45 degree angle (kink-free).

I have some boiler spigots.  Can these be used outdoors?

Just a note.  I actually tried to find the same type of knob/handle at the box stores awhile back hoping that I could buy the entire hosebib and take off the handle of the new one and place that on my existing one.  However, I could not find the same variety.  Also, the nipples on my boiler spigots are squarish where as the one on my exterior hosebib is more rectangle with roundish edges.

Thanks.

 

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