As you describe a a quarter turn valve, it sounds like you describe a ball valve. If that is what you have, typically they can't be fixed when they leak. But as you describe multiple turns got it to seal better, you lost me again. There are many types of valves I haven't dealt with yet.
What kind of pipes do you have? Galvanized? Copper? Other?
For a threaded pipe, like galvanized...
All you need is 2 regular pipe wrenches. One to hold the pipe so it doesn't come unthreaded from the previous fitting. The other to twist the valve off. The way the valve is fitted to the house will determine how it would be removed. Its not the same for every application. What you have to watch out for is unthreading a fitting that's behind the wall. Also to look for leaks after you finish. But this is assuming its threaded pipe. If its copper it gets complicated
You also need some Teflon tape or some pipe dope to seal the threads. Either works well. In order to use channel locks to turn pipe you have to have a really strong grip. Most people couldn't manage that. I can't. You could use a wrench that fits a hex fitting but the material is usually soft and the metal fails easily. A pipe wrench works the best. A galvanized fitting has to get pretty tight to seal well.
A standard 45 degree valve should work well and are fixable when they wear. I've never used a anti backflow valve on a faucet before but its probably not a bad idea. I don't have any advice there. I did see some anti back flow valves that fit between the hose and the faucet.
Copper typically requires sweating with a torch and solder. But it is possible for the valve fitting to be threaded on. There are other types of pipe used too but I don't have any experience there. If its PVC, that is usually easy to glue but can be hard to get threads to seal. With PVC getting a PVC pipe cutter helps to make clean cuts in PVC pipe.
I know you tried to describe this well but there are so many variables that are unknown to me of your situation. I have no idea what a boiler spigot is.
Weekends tend to be slow here so there might not be many responses for awhile.
Steve
The 1/4 turn handle on my outdoor hosebib started to deteriorate a few months ago. The framed ring on the underneath the knob was falling apart and therefore was not properly seated around the turn nipple (sorry I don't have a better term) that sticks up into it. So it needed to be turned past its usual points to go completely on or off. Recently the water hadn't been turning on at full power.
I removed the handle/knob and screw and decided to turn the nipple with a wrench. I was able to turn it on and off a couple of times. Then as I'm trying to turn it off again it's taking at least 5 full revolutions until it finally shuts the water off. After this I try to turn it back on. After several turns it does not turn on again
Is this something that can be fixed without replacing the entire hosebib/spigot? I assumed the nipple and waterflow turn piece below it would be 1 single piece and therefore shouldn't have any mechanisms below it to cause this. I guess I'm wrong or I'm doing something wrong.
If the entire thing must be replaced, do you have any advice on a replacement hosebib and a type of pipe wrench(es) to get and what to look out for when taking it off and installing the new one? I see that there are anti-syphoning varieties. I don't think I'll need the frost-free types. I do like the idea of some of the spigot mouths sitting at a 45 degree angle (kink-free).
I have some boiler spigots. Can these be used outdoors?
Just a note. I actually tried to find the same type of knob/handle at the box stores awhile back hoping that I could buy the entire hosebib and take off the handle of the new one and place that on my existing one. However, I could not find the same variety. Also, the nipples on my boiler spigots are squarish where as the one on my exterior hosebib is more rectangle with roundish edges.
Thanks.
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