Hi Dale, yes, last week we actually had those garden hydrants installed. Three of them. Have to see how that works out in the -30 degrees celcius and even lower here in Alberta. Need to open and close the shut off valves every time I need to use them and pack them with hay, was the advise. Thing is, we have horses and I was sick and tired of the water heater bills in the winter. The only thing that needs to be fixed is the faucet at the house 'cause we have 2 ponies there that need water too.
Sorry the response took a while. posting did not work out.
---In doit_yourself@yahoogroups.com, <daveu@...> wrote:
What would also be useful to know: "what type of materials
are your existing plumbing?"
The actual DIY instructions for modifying the plumbing will
depend on whether your plumbing is iron pipe, copper pipe,
rigid plastic, or modern plastic, like PLEX.
Each type of plumbing material requires its own set of
special tools and skills.
Basic steps:
Judging by the fact you have a faucet installed that is not
frost proof, I would guess you have have either iron or copper
pipe.
Replacing just the end faucet will be easier than splicing in a
shut off valve and drain line. Its just finding a good location
to remove the existing valve and installing new.
Typical steps include shut off water to area you wish to modify
(that may include finding a street or whole house shut off
valve or turning off your well pump, depending on how
your water system is supplied).
Its usually a good idea to also turn off your water heater,
in case your water heater gets drained while doing the repairs.
For iron pipe, connections are threaded, so getting
a couple of big pipe wrenches to loosen the threads.
Also need some pipe dope and/or teflon tape to help seal
the new connections.
For copper pipe, its easier to just cut the pipe and
solder in new connections (that may include a threaded
section to the valve, just like the iron pipe).
Learn to solder copper pipe on some spare material, or
find someone that know how to solder pipe.
There are also some modern connections that do not
require solder, but the fittings are expensive,
and may require investing in some specialized tools.
But really, investigate what you have, what your local
conditions might be, and acquire the modification skill/knowledge
on spare pieces of material. (there are a variety of
DIY books on plumbing repair) botching a plumbing job
and having no water in the house, or a big water leak is
not fun.
dave
are your existing plumbing?"
The actual DIY instructions for modifying the plumbing will
depend on whether your plumbing is iron pipe, copper pipe,
rigid plastic, or modern plastic, like PLEX.
Each type of plumbing material requires its own set of
special tools and skills.
Basic steps:
Judging by the fact you have a faucet installed that is not
frost proof, I would guess you have have either iron or copper
pipe.
Replacing just the end faucet will be easier than splicing in a
shut off valve and drain line. Its just finding a good location
to remove the existing valve and installing new.
Typical steps include shut off water to area you wish to modify
(that may include finding a street or whole house shut off
valve or turning off your well pump, depending on how
your water system is supplied).
Its usually a good idea to also turn off your water heater,
in case your water heater gets drained while doing the repairs.
For iron pipe, connections are threaded, so getting
a couple of big pipe wrenches to loosen the threads.
Also need some pipe dope and/or teflon tape to help seal
the new connections.
For copper pipe, its easier to just cut the pipe and
solder in new connections (that may include a threaded
section to the valve, just like the iron pipe).
Learn to solder copper pipe on some spare material, or
find someone that know how to solder pipe.
There are also some modern connections that do not
require solder, but the fittings are expensive,
and may require investing in some specialized tools.
But really, investigate what you have, what your local
conditions might be, and acquire the modification skill/knowledge
on spare pieces of material. (there are a variety of
DIY books on plumbing repair) botching a plumbing job
and having no water in the house, or a big water leak is
not fun.
dave
On 11/7/13, 8:55 AM, Dave Uebele wrote:
> What is not clear here is where is the pipe first exposed to
> freezing temps? If the basement is kept warm enough that
> it never freezes, then a simple through the wall frost proof
> valve will do what you need. The valve stem inside the pipe is
> very long so the water is actually shut off inside or on the
> warm side of the wall.
>
> If however the basement does get cold enough to freeze, then a shut off
> valve (and drain line) in a warmer location is needed.
>
> It would help to know your location and how cold/severe your winters
> are. Where I live we mostly get rain and few cold snaps, the crawl
> space is warm enough that freezing is not a problem (though pipe
> insulation still helps). Frost line is roughly 6-12 inches deep,
> so I do have frost proof yard hydrants and I typically bury the valve
> deeper than 12 inches, if for no other reason than to make the
> hydrant more stable.
>
> Also, with the frost proof, through wall faucets, you need to remember
> to disconnect the hose and shut the valve. Leaving a hose on, full of
> water, with a shutoff/sprayer on the end of the hose can allow enough
> ice to force its way back into a "frost proof" valve and damage the
> valve.
>
> The local hardware store or county planning department might have
> information on typical severity of freezing winter temps and how
> much precaution you need to take in your area.
>
> dave
> On 11/6/13, 3:12 PM, grapjebe wrote:
>>
>>
>> The outdoor water outlet/faucet freezes and I cannot use it. The
>> pipe comes from the basement, thru the basement wall and then runs outdoors.
>> How can this be fixed? I heard something about making another
>> faucet/valve before it goes thru the wall and then let the water drain
>> from the outside faucet when not in use?
>> Spouse and I are beginner DIYers...
>> oh and... any advise about getting rid of the ads when you try to post
>> via group website?
>>
>
>
--
Dave Uebele (daveu@...)
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