Did you ever mention what kind of head the plug had? Square, inset allen? Hex? Other?
If its and external square or hex, have you tired a pipe wrench on the head? Use lots of penetrating oil first. Cast Iron rusts and will lock the threads pretty tight.
Easy outs are bolt extractors and come in many other names depending on who manufactures them. Some have a left hand thread, others are a spiral left hand square.
Drilling and using as large an easy out as will fit would be a good option. Drilling weakens a threaded objects hold. The less you leave of the bolt, the easier it breaks free. But don't leave too little either. Use lots of penetrating fluid to get into the threads and soak for a couple of days first. Larger easy outs aren't as likely to break when you apply torque to them. Use a large breaker bar and a socket that fits the easy out with as few teeth as possible in the socket, like a 6 point socket, not a 12 point. Put steady even pressure on the breaker bar and keep applying the pressure, it should break free. A pipe wrench would work too but be sure to keep the pipe wrench square on the easy out. Bolt extractors can break and are difficult to remove if they do break. That takes a chisel and a hammer to break them out. Not a position you want to find yourself in. I've had to do that and its not fun.
Steve
Jerry,
What would I actually need to put the backwards threaded bolt in? I reverse drill with a special bit?
thanks for your help.
FrankWhy not drill it and use an easy out? That is a backwards threaded bolt.
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Woodhaven, MIOn Nov 18, 2013 8:29 AM, "Frank Ruggiero" <frankruggiero@me.com> wrote:
Rich.
Thanks for the reply. This is an interesting approach.
But let's say I drill it, thread it and put a screw a bolt into it. Once I tighten it, and then turn the bolt counter clockwise to loose it, won't the new bolt just unscrew leaving the plug in place?
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DRILL an hole into the plug, thread that hole and screw in appropriate bolt,
lockwasher and nut (all on outside of plug of course!!) Tighten the bolt with nut
and you have now made sort of an handle on the plug...if you can tighten the
nut sufficiently then try to turn the bolt which may then turn the plug out.
Be sure to soak plug in liquid wrench as well...
Rich
---In doit_yourself@yahoogroups.com, <dalu@...> wrote:
Apply the heat very slowly as sudden temperature differences can cause cast iron to crack. I was not aware that new cast iron radiators were readily available, are you sure it is not a rebuilt version? There were several companies that supposedly took them apart and reassembled after having first soaked the old unit in a hot acid bath to loosen the internal connections.
Dale in the Flatlands. "Why waste time learning when ignorance is instantaneous."Frank Ruggiero wrote:
Funny thing is this a new radiator. I will try a torch like you said and see what happens. I've never felt and screw in this tight. Someone told me that the radiator may have been built a couple of years ago, lying around and the screw became seized inside. Very frustrating as the whole job went smooth until this point.
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The radiator is cast iron and the plug is in all probability steel, so if you drill the plug it will probably not crumble. If you can use a torch to apply heat to the cast causing it to expand and then use penetrating oil you can get it loose but it will take patience. Once you drill the plug you are committed to either removal or tapping, and will almost certainly damage the threads. Depending on how long the radiator has been out of service there is also a good chance that all of the paper gaskets have dried out and that it will leak.
Dale in the Flatlands. "Why waste time learning when ignorance is instantaneous."Frank Ruggiero wrote:
Do you think it is feasible to drill it out? I just can't get it to budge. If I drilled through it, would the outside of the screw crumble around the center?
I don't want to ruin the threads because I need to screw a valve in where the hex screw is.
I don't even understand why they plug it up. It is so frustrating.
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Try tapping on the end of the plug as you apply pressure with the wrench. It sometimes works to try tightening and then loosening until the rust bond is broken. If you can build a clay dam around the plug and fill with turpentine you might be able to get it loose after it soaks for a day or two.
Dale in the Flatlands. "Why waste time learning when ignorance is instantaneous."Frank Ruggiero wrote:
Hi Plumbers.
Can anyone advise? I'm trying to install a new freestanding radiator. I have an issue. I am trying to remove the plug that has been inserted where I wish to place my air intake valve. The radiator was delivered with the plug inserted and I am having no luck removing it. I am afraid I will strip it. I'm trying liquid wrench and no luck.
Has anybody ever had this issue. It's so frustrating. Will this need to be drilled out?
Thanks for your help.
Frank
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