I would recommend that you chase the threads with a pipe die and then apply "Never Seize" before installing the new air vent. Sounds like you are working with either a venting steam system, a two pipe hot water system.
Dale in the Flatlands. "Why waste time learning when ignorance is instantaneous."
Frank Ruggiero wrote:Well, I gave the radiator another shot. More Liquid Wrench. More tapping the alan key with the hammer (about 5 times). And a lot of muscle.
And you know what? The screw started to move slightly. More hammering, more muscle and I got it out.
I am so relieved! Thanks to all of you for your help and support....
Frank
On Nov 20, 2013, at 7:35 PM, Dale S <dalu@hbcomm.net> wrote:
It is highly unlikely that you are dealing with a left hand pipe thread. However,sometimes you can get first motion by tightening first. I'm assuming you are dealing with a 1/4 pipe plug as that is what most of them are. In which case you don't have much metal work work with. If you will file the end flat and start by drilling a 1/8 inch hole as close to center as possible and then slowly increase the size in 1/64 increments (this is the standard increment for a good drill index) and watching after each drilling for the first sign of threads you will be able to get to the point where you can pick the remaining threads of the plug out without damaging the radiator. finally chase with a pipe tap and you will be home free.
Dale in the Flatlands. "Why waste time learning when ignorance is instantaneous."Frank Ruggiero wrote:
wait, are you saying its possible I could be actually tightening it? Its an American radiator, and I am trying to loosen it by turning it counter clockwise. Could it be possible to loosen it by turning it Clockwise? I thought that would only make sense when the screw is holding on some type of wheel that spins counter clockwise...
On Nov 20, 2013, at 10:38 AM, Mountain Master <mountain953346@yahoo.com> wrote:
hmmm..is it a left hand threaded bolt?
But another idea is to drill two holes about an inch apart ifthere is room..then put two bolts or steel rods into thoseholes and use an strap wrench or visegrip pliers onthose two items grabbing them and attempting to turnthe plug via that setup...rube-goldberg I know....but weare down to little remaining choices.
Rich
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From: "DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com" <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com>
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2013 12:21 AM
Subject: [DIY] Digest Number 6353
3 New Messages
Digest #63531aRe: Radiator plug by mountain9533461bRe: Radiator plug by edmcm20001cRe: Radiator plug by "Frank Ruggiero" sunship70Messages
Tue Nov 19, 2013 4:27 am (PST) . Posted by:
mountain953346
Frank..Not if you are able to tighten the bolt, lockwasher and
nut combo tighter than the plug....especially after the liquid
wrench treatment...
---In doit_yourself@ yahoogroups. com, <jhnidy@. ..> wrote:
Nothing special. Go to anyplace ( Harbor Freight sells them in a set for 6 dollars ) and look at the things. Just ask anybody for an easy out. When you see one you will know that it is the answer.
Jerry's Laptop
Woodhaven, Mi
On Mon, Nov 18, 2013 at 12:09 PM, Frank Ruggiero <frankruggiero@ ... mailto:frankruggier o@...> wrote:
Jerry,
What would I actually need to put the backwards threaded bolt in? I reverse drill with a special bit?
thanks for your help.
Frank
On Nov 18, 2013, at 11:08 AM, Jerry Hnidy <jhnidy@. .. mailto:jhnidy@ ...> wrote:
Why not drill it and use an easy out? That is a backwards threaded bolt.
Google Jers Tablet
Woodhaven, MI
On Nov 18, 2013 8:29 AM, "Frank Ruggiero" <frankruggiero@ ... mailto:frankruggier o@...> wrote:
Rich.
Thanks for the reply. This is an interesting approach.
But let's say I drill it, thread it and put a screw a bolt into it. Once I tighten it, and then turn the bolt counter clockwise to loose it, won't the new bolt just unscrew leaving the plug in place?
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 18, 2013, at 8:07 AM, mountain953346@ ... mailto:mountain9533 46@... wrote:
DRILL an hole into the plug, thread that hole and screw in appropriate bolt,
lockwasher and nut (all on outside of plug of course!!) Tighten the bolt with nut
and you have now made sort of an handle on the plug...if you can tighten the
nut sufficiently then try to turn the bolt which may then turn the plug out.
Be sure to soak plug in liquid wrench as well...
Rich
---In doit_yourself@ yahoogroups. com mailto:doit_yourself@ yahoogroups. com, <dalu@... > wrote:
Apply the heat very slowly as sudden temperature differences can cause cast iron to crack. I was not aware that new cast iron radiators were readily available, are you sure it is not a rebuilt version? There were several companies that supposedly took them apart and reassembled after having first soaked the old unit in a hot acid bath to loosen the internal connections.
Dale in the Flatlands. "Why waste time learning when ignorance is instantaneous. "
Frank Ruggiero wrote:
Funny thing is this a new radiator. I will try a torch like you said and see what happens. I've never felt and screw in this tight. Someone told me that the radiator may have been built a couple of years ago, lying around and the screw became seized inside. Very frustrating as the whole job went smooth until this point.
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 17, 2013, at 9:01 AM, Dale S <dalu@... mailto:dalu@ ...> wrote:
The radiator is cast iron and the plug is in all probability steel, so if you drill the plug it will probably not crumble. If you can use a torch to apply heat to the cast causing it to expand and then use penetrating oil you can get it loose but it will take patience. Once you drill the plug you are committed to either removal or tapping, and will almost certainly damage the threads. Depending on how long the radiator has been out of service there is also a good chance that all of the paper gaskets have dried out and that it will leak.
Dale in the Flatlands. "Why waste time learning when ignorance is instantaneous. "
Frank Ruggiero wrote:
Do you think it is feasible to drill it out? I just can't get it to budge. If I drilled through it, would the outside of the screw crumble around the center?
I don't want to ruin the threads because I need to screw a valve in where the hex screw is.
I don't even understand why they plug it up. It is so frustrating.
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 16, 2013, at 7:06 PM, Dale S <dalu@... mailto:dalu@ ...> wrote:
Try tapping on the end of the plug as you apply pressure with the wrench. It sometimes works to try tightening and then loosening until the rust bond is broken. If you can build a clay dam around the plug and fill with turpentine you might be able to get it loose after it soaks for a day or two.
Dale in the Flatlands. "Why waste time learning when ignorance is instantaneous. "
Frank Ruggiero wrote:
Hi Plumbers.
Can anyone advise? I'm trying to install a new freestanding radiator. I have an issue. I am trying to remove the plug that has been inserted where I wish to place my air intake valve. The radiator was delivered with the plug inserted and I am having no luck removing it. I am afraid I will strip it. I'm trying liquid wrench and no luck.
Has anybody ever had this issue. It's so frustrating. Will this need to be drilled out?
Thanks for your help.
Frank
Sent from my iPhone
Tue Nov 19, 2013 12:27 pm (PST) . Posted by:
edmcm2000
Curious, have you tried the torch? Ed
---In DoIt_Yourself@ yahoogroups. com, <mountain953346@ ...> wrote:
Frank..Not if you are able to tighten the bolt, lockwasher and
nut combo tighter than the plug....especially after the liquid
wrench treatment...
---In doit_yourself@ yahoogroups. com, <jhnidy@. ..> wrote:
Nothing special. Go to anyplace ( Harbor Freight sells them in a set for 6 dollars ) and look at the things. Just ask anybody for an easy out. When you see one you will know that it is the answer.
Jerry's Laptop
Woodhaven, Mi
On Mon, Nov 18, 2013 at 12:09 PM, Frank Ruggiero <frankruggiero@ ... mailto:frankruggier o@...> wrote:
Jerry,
What would I actually need to put the backwards threaded bolt in? I reverse drill with a special bit?
thanks for your help.
Frank
On Nov 18, 2013, at 11:08 AM, Jerry Hnidy <jhnidy@. .. mailto:jhnidy@ ...> wrote:
Why not drill it and use an easy out? That is a backwards threaded bolt.
Google Jers Tablet
Woodhaven, MI
On Nov 18, 2013 8:29 AM, "Frank Ruggiero" <frankruggiero@ ... mailto:frankruggier o@...> wrote:
Rich.
Thanks for the reply. This is an interesting approach.
But let's say I drill it, thread it and put a screw a bolt into it. Once I tighten it, and then turn the bolt counter clockwise to loose it, won't the new bolt just unscrew leaving the plug in place?
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 18, 2013, at 8:07 AM, mountain953346@ ... mailto:mountain9533 46@... wrote:
DRILL an hole into the plug, thread that hole and screw in appropriate bolt,
lockwasher and nut (all on outside of plug of course!!) Tighten the bolt with nut
and you have now made sort of an handle on the plug...if you can tighten the
nut sufficiently then try to turn the bolt which may then turn the plug out.
Be sure to soak plug in liquid wrench as well...
Rich
---In doit_yourself@ yahoogroups. com mailto:doit_yourself@ yahoogroups. com, <dalu@... > wrote:
Apply the heat very slowly as sudden temperature differences can cause cast iron to crack. I was not aware that new cast iron radiators were readily available, are you sure it is not a rebuilt version? There were several companies that supposedly took them apart and reassembled after having first soaked the old unit in a hot acid bath to loosen the internal connections.
Dale in the Flatlands. "Why waste time learning when ignorance is instantaneous. "
Frank Ruggiero wrote:
Funny thing is this a new radiator. I will try a torch like you said and see what happens. I've never felt and screw in this tight. Someone told me that the radiator may have been built a couple of years ago, lying around and the screw became seized inside. Very frustrating as the whole job went smooth until this point.
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 17, 2013, at 9:01 AM, Dale S <dalu@... mailto:dalu@ ...> wrote:
The radiator is cast iron and the plug is in all probability steel, so if you drill the plug it will probably not crumble. If you can use a torch to apply heat to the cast causing it to expand and then use penetrating oil you can get it loose but it will take patience. Once you drill the plug you are committed to either removal or tapping, and will almost certainly damage the threads. Depending on how long the radiator has been out of service there is also a good chance that all of the paper gaskets have dried out and that it will leak.
Dale in the Flatlands. "Why waste time learning when ignorance is instantaneous. "
Frank Ruggiero wrote:
Do you think it is feasible to drill it out? I just can't get it to budge. If I drilled through it, would the outside of the screw crumble around the center?
I don't want to ruin the threads because I need to screw a valve in where the hex screw is.
I don't even understand why they plug it up. It is so frustrating.
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 16, 2013, at 7:06 PM, Dale S <dalu@... mailto:dalu@ ...> wrote:
Try tapping on the end of the plug as you apply pressure with the wrench. It sometimes works to try tightening and then loosening until the rust bond is broken. If you can build a clay dam around the plug and fill with turpentine you might be able to get it loose after it soaks for a day or two.
Dale in the Flatlands. "Why waste time learning when ignorance is instantaneous. "
Frank Ruggiero wrote:
Hi Plumbers.
Can anyone advise? I'm trying to install a new freestanding radiator. I have an issue. I am trying to remove the plug that has been inserted where I wish to place my air intake valve. The radiator was delivered with the plug inserted and I am having no luck removing it. I am afraid I will strip it. I'm trying liquid wrench and no luck.
Has anybody ever had this issue. It's so frustrating. Will this need to be drilled out?
Thanks for your help.
Frank
Sent from my iPhone
Tue Nov 19, 2013 12:30 pm (PST) . Posted by:
"Frank Ruggiero" sunship70
Hi Ed. Thanks for contacting me. I intend to try the torch on Saturday. My work schedule is so intense, I just cant get to it during the week.
I am hoping I will have that plug out, either by torch or by the easy out... (I hope)
On Nov 19, 2013, at 03:27 PM, edmcm2000@yahoo. com wrote:
Curious, have you tried the torch? Ed
---In DoIt_Yourself@ yahoogroups. com, <mountain953346@ ...> wrote:
Frank..Not if you are able to tighten the bolt, lockwasher and
nut combo tighter than the plug....especially after the liquid
wrench treatment...
---In doit_yourself@ yahoogroups. com, <jhnidy@.. ..> wrote:
Nothing special. Go to anyplace ( Harbor Freight sells them in a set for 6 dollars ) and look at the things. Just ask anybody for an easy out. When you see one you will know that it is the answer.
Jerry's Laptop
Woodhaven, Mi
On Mon, Nov 18, 2013 at 12:09 PM, Frank Ruggiero <frankruggiero@ ...> wrote:
Jerry,
What would I actually need to put the backwards threaded bolt in? I reverse drill with a special bit?
thanks for your help.
Frank
On Nov 18, 2013, at 11:08 AM, Jerry Hnidy <jhnidy@. ..> wrote:
Why not drill it and use an easy out? That is a backwards threaded bolt.
Google Jers Tablet
Woodhaven, MI
On Nov 18, 2013 8:29 AM, "Frank Ruggiero" <frankruggiero@ ...> wrote:
Rich.
Thanks for the reply. This is an interesting approach.
But let's say I drill it, thread it and put a screw a bolt into it. Once I tighten it, and then turn the bolt counter clockwise to loose it, won't the new bolt just unscrew leaving the plug in place?
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 18, 2013, at 8:07 AM, mountain953346@ ... wrote:
DRILL an hole into the plug, thread that hole and screw in appropriate bolt,
lockwasher and nut (all on outside of plug of course!!) Tighten the bolt with nut
and you have now made sort of an handle on the plug...if you can tighten the
nut sufficiently then try to turn the bolt which may then turn the plug out.
Be sure to soak plug in liquid wrench as well...
Rich
---In doit_yourself@ yahoogroups. com, <dalu@... > wrote:
Apply the heat very slowly as sudden temperature differences can cause cast iron to crack. I was not aware that new cast iron radiators were readily available, are you sure it is not a rebuilt version? There were several companies that supposedly took them apart and reassembled after having first soaked the old unit in a hot acid bath to loosen the internal connections.
Dale in the Flatlands. "Why waste time learning when ignorance is instantaneous. "
Frank Ruggiero wrote:
Funny thing is this a new radiator. I will try a torch like you said and see what happens. I've never felt and screw in this tight. Someone told me that the radiator may have been built a couple of years ago, lying around and the screw became seized inside. Very frustrating as the whole job went smooth until this point.
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 17, 2013, at 9:01 AM, Dale S <dalu@... > wrote:
The radiator is cast iron and the plug is in all probability steel, so if you drill the plug it will probably not crumble. If you can use a torch to apply heat to the cast causing it to expand and then use penetrating oil you can get it loose but it will take patience. Once you drill the plug you are committed to either removal or tapping, and will almost certainly damage the threads. Depending on how long the radiator has been out of service there is also a good chance that all of the paper gaskets have dried out and that it will leak.
Dale in the Flatlands. "Why waste time learning when ignorance is instantaneous. "
Frank Ruggiero wrote:
Do you think it is feasible to drill it out? I just can't get it to budge. If I drilled through it, would the outside of the screw crumble around the center?
I don't want to ruin the threads because I need to screw a valve in where the hex screw is.
I don't even understand why they plug it up. It is so frustrating.
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 16, 2013, at 7:06 PM, Dale S <dalu@... > wrote:
Try tapping on the end of the plug as you apply pressure with the wrench. It sometimes works to try tightening and then loosening until the rust bond is broken. If you can build a clay dam around the plug and fill with turpentine you might be able to get it loose after it soaks for a day or two.
Dale in the Flatlands. "Why waste time learning when ignorance is instantaneous. "
Frank Ruggiero wrote:
Hi Plumbers.
Can anyone advise? I'm trying to install a new freestanding radiator. I have an issue. I am trying to remove the plug that has been inserted where I wish to place my air intake valve. The radiator was delivered with the plug inserted and I am having no luck removing it. I am afraid I will strip it. I'm trying liquid wrench and no luck.
Has anybody ever had this issue. It's so frustrating. Will this need to be drilled out?
Thanks for your help.
Frank
Sent from my iPhone
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