I looked at Lowe's and found something that might help :
Superior Tool Super Ring Toilet Repair
You might have to cut parts of the existing flange to get it set but it might be better than cutting the whole flange and trying to fit another one.
If you do end up cutting out the flange, which might be easier to saw it along the floor, put in one like
Oatey Closet Flange Spacer
which will fit over any 4" pipe; just set it in the right place and use the four small holes to screw it to the floor. The sleeve of the wax ring will keep anything from going outside the pipe.
Though it should be 4", I have come across 3" pipes that DIYers put in thinking it made no difference. Trust me - it does. Of course if it's already is 3", unless it gives you problems, don't spend the time and money changing it even if it's fairly easy to do.
I had a case where the 3" line did a double 90 (no spacing between the 90's) and the toilet backed up alot. I changed that section to 4" and used 45's. There ware no back-ups aftre that. Of course we have trouble with ours backing up, but I've redone the line so I know it's the toilet (I plan to change that toilet to one with a larger trap diameter).
Around here the best people to help are the ones at Ace, though it's just a little cheaper to go to Lowe's. If there is any questions, you can take pictures of your flange and go to Ace where they should be able to help you get the right things or let you know what to get.
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
From: jhnidy@gmail.com
Date: Sat, 26 May 2012 10:24:40 -0400
Subject: RE: [DIY] Toilet flange orientation
The bad news is that there are only two slots in the flange and they are at noon and 6 o'clock. I think the white plastic spacer was added when father had a new floor put in. That may have made the flange too low to the floor. If you go to HD or Lowes, you will see a wide assortment of white spacers. The one that is on there now bolts to four holes in the black cast flange and then the T bolts grab in slots in the white plastic spacer. If I had to go with nothing but the cast flange, toilet would be 90 degrees off.
The people I talked to when I was still at fathers house all tried to sell me a new plastic spacer that would slide into the cast iron and then bolt to the floor instead of the flange. So I could orient it anyway I wanted. Unless I can rotate the actual black cast iron flange, that is what I will have to do when I go back up north.
Google Jer
Woodhaven, Mi
From: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ron Johnson
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2012 9:34 PM
To: doit_yourself@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DIY] Toilet flange orientation
First, I'm assuming this is fairly new set-up. Working on old houses, I've found that in some cases the flange is not connected to the pipe but was placed there because there was no originl flange - the toilet was bolted to the floor, not the flange.
The bolts that hold the toilet down are secured on to the flange. The flange should be secured to the floor so that it doesn't move and the toilet bolts are evenly spaced from the wall behind the toilet (each should be 12" from the wall). I usually buy two sets of bolts so I can tighten the bolts onto the flange with one set of washers and nuts so I won't worry about them moving when I tighten the toilet down. The extra bolts in the set are tossed away; all the washers are used, of course.
I don't know who you are refering to as "the man in the big box", but I'm not sure what you need a spacer for. Unless you're flange is too high and the toilet rocks on the flange, there shouldn't be any spacers. If the flange is too low, there is a wax ring without a sleeve that can be bought and added on.
When in doubt, the extra money for a professional would be preferred to making mistakes that need to be fixed time and again. Check a DIY site on the internet and see what is needed for your specific case and then see if you can do it or need to call a professional.
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
From: jhnidy@gmail.com
Date: Fri, 25 May 2012 21:16:33 -0400
Subject: [DIY] Toilet flange orientation
One of the "T" bolts that hold father's toilet to the flange has popped out of the toilet. When I removed the toilet, I found that the big black flange that carries away the waste is positioned such that one of the "T" bolts really has nothing to grab. I tenderly put everything back together and got the T bolts tight but I don't think the fix will last.
What holds the black flange in place? I mean can I grab the flange and turn it 20 degrees? Before I started this job, the man in the big box told me I would find a white plastic spacer that would be screwed to the floor. The spacer was there but it was screwed to the flange not the floor so I could not just rotate the spacer.
If I can't rotate the flange, then I will buy a plastic flange that does bolt to the floor but then I would be concerned about the seal to the flange.
Google Jers Tablet
Woodhaven, MI
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