Are these recessed can lights? Whatever type they are, the bulb (MR11 or MR16?) get very hot and any wiring within their proximity needs to be high temperature wire as the factory wire would be. Also, the connector needs to be as well such as with a porcelain wire nut. You may have to order these online (ie, EBAY) as home depot or lowes do not have them as far as I can find. These sockets often get loose and need to be replaces as well. These sockets come with a pigtail (lead) wire on them.
--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, Robert Rushing <rnrushing@...> wrote:
>
> I'm trying to help out my father-in-law. He has a 12 volt light and the
> wries have gotten hot and melt. This is an in house light so it is
> connected to the 120 volt house current by a transformer in the light
> housing. The 120 volt house wire connects to black, white and green just
> like a standard light, and this wiring is fine. Inside the light housing
> is a factory connection of what is about a #14 stranded red to a very
> small stranded white from the transformer. This connection to is fine.
> Then there is another #14 stranded connected to a small white stranded
> from the transformer. This #14 white has over heated. The insulation has
> became very hard and brittle and the factory installed crimp wire nut
> has over heated. Father-in-law had all ready taken the light down. One
> possibility could be, the wire was against the transformer, but I don't
> think so this is the second light like this he has had problems with.
> The other one was in a different location. My next guess is he has a
> faulty neutral connection somewhere in the circuit, but everything else
> is working fine and the other light did the same thing on a different
> circuit.
>
> Any suggestions / idea on what is causing his problem?
>
> Thanks
> Robert R.
>
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