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30 November 2014

Re: [DIY] Whirlpool Cabrio WTW5600XW1

 

My washer does not have belt drive, but possibly you need to check for motor pulley alignment so as not to cause a binding on the splutch pulley.  Maybe.  BTW, I never heard of a splutch before and 1st thought that was a misspelled word for clutch. LOL.

On 11/29/2014 2:58 PM, fsage@verizon.net [DoIt_Yourself] wrote:
 

I am not sure this is the proper forum, but I need some help with my washing machine that could reach a greater number of people.  From what I can tell, I need a new "splutch assembly, which I replaced. The machine was quiet for about a week on agitate,(the cycle making the noise) and now is making the same noise again. The parts house was kind enough to send out a new assembly.  Before I install the second assembly, has anyone have any experience with this "splutch?" Or, a defective replacement? This is a Whirlpool WTW5600XW1 Cabrio that has been trouble free for seven years up until now. The noise I am getting can be heard on Youtube under splutch noise. Any help would be appreciated.


Fred





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Posted by: David Cox <dcwired@att.net>
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Posted by at 22:52 0 comments

[DIY] Whirlpool Cabrio WTW5600XW1

 

I am not sure this is the proper forum, but I need some help with my washing machine that could reach a greater number of people.  From what I can tell, I need a new "splutch assembly, which I replaced. The machine was quiet for about a week on agitate,(the cycle making the noise) and now is making the same noise again. The parts house was kind enough to send out a new assembly.  Before I install the second assembly, has anyone have any experience with this "splutch?" Or, a defective replacement? This is a Whirlpool WTW5600XW1 Cabrio that has been trouble free for seven years up until now. The noise I am getting can be heard on Youtube under splutch noise. Any help would be appreciated.


Fred




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Posted by: fsage@verizon.net
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Posted by at 04:58 0 comments

27 November 2014

RE: [DIY] Ceiling Fan

 

It doesn't continue to turn...only when you start it on high. it's probably not in the hole properly. But I don't know what to do with the rubber u shaped thing. I thought it went under the ball. Thanks for your help.

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Posted by: esouzajr@yahoo.com
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Posted by at 06:56 0 comments

26 November 2014

RE: [DIY] Ceiling Fan

 

Did the fan and light turn in circles or did it just start to move? if it only just started to move, it might be because the ball at the end of the stem at the ceiling isn't sitting in the right position.  Usually, there is a tab that goes into a groove that holds the ball in place so the whole thing doesn't move.
 
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
From: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2014 15:04:48 -0800
Subject: [DIY] Ceiling Fan

 

 I installed a ceiling fan someone gave me. Every time you turn on the switch the fan and light fixture start to turn. If you put the fan on low speed it's ok. Anybody have any thoughts as to what I might be doing wrong.  Thanks

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Posted by: Ron Johnson <l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com>
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Posted by at 10:20 0 comments

Re: [DIY] Ceiling Fan

 

 It had a rubber u shaped attachment that looked like it went under the ball.maybe it doesn't. I'll take it apart an try it without that rubber fork.

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Posted by: esouzajr@yahoo.com
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Posted by at 09:24 0 comments

Re: [DIY] Ceiling Fan

 

without seeing the fan/fixture, this is a wild guess! when you place the fan assembly into the support bracket, did you turn it around in the socket until it "fell into place"? if it is the normal ball type end on the fan pipe stem, it will have a notch cut into the ball that will line up with a finger or nub on the box end of the support. if they are not aligned correctly the fan assembly will twist due to the torque of the fan motor. hopefully you left enough of the wiring intact so that you can twist it by hand to get it to fall into place and not cause any damage.


On Tuesday, November 25, 2014 6:04 PM, "esouzajr@yahoo.com [DoIt_Yourself]" <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


 
 I installed a ceiling fan someone gave me. Every time you turn on the switch the fan and light fixture start to turn. If you put the fan on low speed it's ok. Anybody have any thoughts as to what I might be doing wrong.  Thanks


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Posted by: Mike Shoaf <mike.shoaf@yahoo.com>
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Posted by at 08:43 0 comments

[DIY] Ceiling Fan

 

 I installed a ceiling fan someone gave me. Every time you turn on the switch the fan and light fixture start to turn. If you put the fan on low speed it's ok. Anybody have any thoughts as to what I might be doing wrong.  Thanks

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Posted by: esouzajr@yahoo.com
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Posted by at 07:04 0 comments

22 November 2014

[DIY] Re: new topic / window headers

 

Good thinking! 
Best Regards,
 
Paul L. Meuse
 

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Posted by: paul meuse <pmeuse@yahoo.com>
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Posted by at 21:50 0 comments

Re: [DIY] new topic / window headers

 

For all those who had great input into this topic. Cutting out a window opening of an already completed building...
Hubby added a 1" by 2" 6' piece of wood at the edges of the proposed opening which allowed the blade to cut without scoring the outside planking.
Yay! one window in and 3 more left for tomorrow.
Building and remodeling sure brings out the contemplative thoughts!
thanks to all,
carmen

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Posted by: John and Carmen Stuart <johnandcarmen@bellsouth.net>
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Posted by at 10:54 0 comments

21 November 2014

[DIY] Re: new topic / window headers

 

You can buy a flush cutting blade for a sabre saw that will cut a 3-1/2 stud with out going thru the front wall of the  house.
Best Regards,
 
Paul L. Meuse
 

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Posted by: paul meuse <pmeuse@yahoo.com>
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Posted by at 21:59 0 comments

Re: [DIY] new topic / window headers

 

The Sawsall I have allows me to install the blade backwards which places the teeth closer to the cutting project. It allows me to cut all but a very small piece of the stud. Hope this helps.

Lena

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Posted by: l_knighten@yahoo.com
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Posted by at 18:57 0 comments

Re: [DIY] new topic / window headers

 

If you have room to get at it with a good jigsaw, that will do it.  It would require a long blade, but they are available.  The cut would be very clean.  I have a high end Bosch jigsaw that will go through a 2x4 sideways like butter.


Bob

On Nov 20, 2014, at 9:21 AM, carmen mom2mini@bellsouth.net [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

What cutting saw will allow for the removal of the 2 by 4 studs without going through to the outside wood panels?
The sawsall (sp?) reciprocating saw cuts a ragged edge and is hard to control.

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Posted by: Bob Davis <bob@wrobertdavis.com>
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Posted by at 06:02 0 comments

Re: [DIY] new topic / window headers

 

Could be.  I have in the past used a skill saw to make the initial cut and define the cut line and then finished with a sawzall, hand saw, and have even used a heavy duty saber saw.  If you get a good clean cut to define the desired cut line it makes the rest of the cut easier.

Dale in the Flat Lands

David Cox dcwired@att.net [DoIt_Yourself] wrote:
 

Perhaps they do not wish to cut the outside paneling is because they need to cut the studs high enough to place a tall header in
which would be above the opening and where the trim would cover.

On 11/20/2014 8:40 AM, Dale S dalu@hbcomm.net [DoIt_Yourself] wrote:
 

Not quite sure why you would not wish to cut through to the outside panels.  You can cut 2x4's with great accuracy a vibrasaw but it is a slow going process.

Dale in the Flat Lands

carmen mom2mini@bellsouth.net [DoIt_Yourself] wrote:
 


We are installing large windows into an existing building.
What cutting saw will allow for the removal of the 2 by 4 studs without going through to the outside wood panels?
The sawsall (sp?) reciprocating saw cuts a ragged edge and is hard to control.
carmen
~~~



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Posted by: Dale S <dalu@hbcomm.net>
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Posted by at 00:30 0 comments

20 November 2014

Re: [DIY] new topic / window headers

 

Exactly, we need 10" by 2" headers above these windows and we are putting them as high as they will work.

carmen

~~~
On Nov 20, 2014, at 9:57 AM, David Cox dcwired@att.net [DoIt_Yourself] wrote:

 

Perhaps they do not wish to cut the outside paneling is because they need to cut the studs high enough to place a tall header in
which would be above the opening and where the trim would cover.

On 11/20/2014 8:40 AM, Dale S dalu@hbcomm.net [DoIt_Yourself] wrote:
 

Not quite sure why you would not wish to cut through to the outside panels.  You can cut 2x4's with great accuracy a vibrasaw but it is a slow going process.

Dale in the Flat Lands

carmen mom2mini@bellsouth.net [DoIt_Yourself] wrote:
 


We are installing large windows into an existing building.
What cutting saw will allow for the removal of the 2 by 4 studs without going through to the outside wood panels?
The sawsall (sp?) reciprocating saw cuts a ragged edge and is hard to control.
carmen
~~~



This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com





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Posted by: John and Carmen Stuart <johnandcarmen@bellsouth.net>
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Posted by at 23:30 0 comments
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