Do it Yourself: December 2015

Don't think I want to tackle this one myself, I have seen the kits but so far I have heard they only last a few years. We want to sell the house because it is too large for the two of us but I don't want to cause problems for the new owner.

Thanks,

Vickie

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Posted by: Vickie Harris <vjoyhme@yahoo.com>

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[DIY] Could it be sashco instead of santura?

http://www.sashco.com/products/lexel/

The Tough Elastic Sealant for Every Job Sticks to Almost Anything

Lexel® synthetic rubber elastomeric sealant is the superior alternative to silicone caulk in clarity, adhesion, elasticity and paintability.

Sticks to Almost Anything

Lexel® synthetic rubber elastomeric sealant is the superior alternative to silicone caulk in clarity, adhesion, elasticity and paintability.

Jan Flood
oakridgefarm@gmail.com

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Posted by: "oakridgefarm@gmail.com" <oakridgefarm@gmail.com>

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Re: [DIY] Santura type caulking?

Jan I was thinking the same thing...hope the original poster will answer the question of who is going to do this for $200? Is it the person who put it in and it only lasted 6 months and did they guarantee it. Even if they didnt gaurantee it they should come back and redo it.

Joyce aka Mom aka Nana

On Thu, Dec 31, 2015 at 7:33 AM, 'oakridgefarm@gmail.com' oakridgefarm@gmail.com [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Joyce, if you paid to have this done 6 months ago — are they going to cover part of the cost? If the caulk is pulling apart it must be flexing, sounds like when the tub is full of water the weight is pulling it away from the wall, maybe the tub needs more support underneath? It's not fun to remove old caulking but it's an easy diy. You can buy little plastic tools, specifically made to remove the old caulk and smooth the new - $3-$4, so common we can even buy them in the grocery store here. Done this job many times over the years and recently in the master bathroom and kitchen before we sold our house a few months ago. Things I've learned that will make a difference in the long run: Take the time to remove ALL the old caulk then clean it thoroughly, new stuff won't stick otherwise. Before you begin, ensure the area is completely dry - not just dried off, let it dry overnight. Clean it with alcohol before you re-caulk. Don't lay in too thick a line thinking more is better, and be sure you let it dry the recommended time before you us the tub again, usually overnight. Too, for small areas I like the tubes, easier to handle, but for long runs you can get a better application with the gun. You want a solid line end to end, if possible, not start and stop.

You can get caulk in colors or clear, so it blends in - and some brands can be painted. There are also several that are made to be flexible - without cracking, thats where the mildew gets in. Don't know your actual situation but $200 to caulk a tub is a lot of money, even including materials and labor - are they going to guarantee the work this time? We don't have Menards here but I'll bet there is someone who will show you the different types and explain how to use it. Our Lowe's and Home Depot both pride themselves on teaching you how to diy :) Really, unless there is a personal reason, this is something you can do yourself for less than $25 (+-) I'm 73 so age isn't a deterrent :)

Jan Flood
oakridgefarm@gmail.com

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Posted by: Joyce O <theoldhen@gmail.com>

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[DIY] Caulk Info

http://www.dap.com/dap-products-ph/flexible-clear-sealant/?m=1161&s=1173

http://www.lowes.com/projects/paint-stain-and-wallpaper/how-to-caulk/project

I wonder if you could use a can of the expanding foam to put in the crack, before you caulk, to close up any gaps. I used construction strength adhesive behind the tub surround that wanted to pop away at one corner, braced it with a 2x4 overnight, then caulked. I assume the wall wasn't quite straight at that point.

Jan Flood
oakridgefarm@gmail.com

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Posted by: "oakridgefarm@gmail.com" <oakridgefarm@gmail.com>

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Re: [DIY] Santura type caulking?

Joyce, if you paid to have this done 6 months ago — are they going to cover part of the cost? If the caulk is pulling apart it must be flexing, sounds like when the tub is full of water the weight is pulling it away from the wall, maybe the tub needs more support underneath? It's not fun to remove old caulking but it's an easy diy. You can buy little plastic tools, specifically made to remove the old caulk and smooth the new - $3-$4, so common we can even buy them in the grocery store here. Done this job many times over the years and recently in the master bathroom and kitchen before we sold our house a few months ago. Things I've learned that will make a difference in the long run: Take the time to remove ALL the old caulk then clean it thoroughly, new stuff won't stick otherwise. Before you begin, ensure the area is completely dry - not just dried off, let it dry overnight. Clean it with alcohol before you re-caulk. Don't lay in too thick a line thinking more is better, and be sure you let it dry the recommended time before you us the tub again, usually overnight. Too, for small areas I like the tubes, easier to handle, but for long runs you can get a better application with the gun. You want a solid line end to end, if possible, not start and stop.

You can get caulk in colors or clear, so it blends in - and some brands can be painted. There are also several that are made to be flexible - without cracking, thats where the mildew gets in. Don't know your actual situation but $200 to caulk a tub is a lot of money, even including materials and labor - are they going to guarantee the work this time? We don't have Menards here but I'll bet there is someone who will show you the different types and explain how to use it. Our Lowe's and Home Depot both pride themselves on teaching you how to diy :) Really, unless there is a personal reason, this is something you can do yourself for less than $25 (+-) I'm 73 so age isn't a deterrent :)

Jan Flood
oakridgefarm@gmail.com

__._,_.___

Posted by: "oakridgefarm@gmail.com" <oakridgefarm@gmail.com>

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Re: [DIY] Santura type caulking?

The price is all the inclusive. Even if I remove the old caulk the charge is the same

On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 5:39 PM -0800, "Joyce O theoldhen@gmail.com [DoIt_Yourself]" <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

I havent heard of the brand ...why would you pay someone $200 to remove the old caulk if you could do it yourself? Are the same people who put it in going to remove it?

Joyce aka Mom aka Nana

On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 9:17 AM, 01dyna@gmail.com [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

So we had our bathtub recaulked about 6 months ago and it's already pulling apart and looking ugly and moldy.

I was told by the guy who re caulked our tub that they have a product called Santura (sp?) that is like a "permanent" caulk (although they said it's not actually caulk) that is much better and lasts years.

I've never heard of this product and can't seem to find any references to it on the net. They want almost
$200 to remove the old caulk and apply this stuff but before I go that route, I thought I'd ask everyone if any of you have heard or used this product?

-aki
(who absolutely *hates* caulking the bathtub because he can't find ANY caulk that lasts more than a few months)

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Posted by: adamme1958 <01dyna@gmail.com>

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Re: [DIY] Santura type caulking?

I havent heard of the brand ...why would you pay someone $200 to remove the old caulk if you could do it yourself? Are the same people who put it in going to remove it?

Joyce aka Mom aka Nana

On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 9:17 AM, 01dyna@gmail.com [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

So we had our bathtub recaulked about 6 months ago and it's already pulling apart and looking ugly and moldy.

I was told by the guy who re caulked our tub that they have a product called Santura (sp?) that is like a "permanent" caulk (although they said it's not actually caulk) that is much better and lasts years.

I've never heard of this product and can't seem to find any references to it on the net. They want almost
$200 to remove the old caulk and apply this stuff but before I go that route, I thought I'd ask everyone if any of you have heard or used this product?

-aki
(who absolutely *hates* caulking the bathtub because he can't find ANY caulk that lasts more than a few months)

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Posted by: Joyce O <theoldhen@gmail.com>

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Re: [DIY] Counter remodel [1 Attachment]

[Attachment(s) from oakridgefarm@gmail.com included below]

David it would be an area similar to a triangle with a leg, 33x35" not a lot of room but about 3 sq ft, enough space for coffee pot etc - and would open up that corner of the existing counter. No, I'm not going to replace the countertops now, but will resurface in some way so it's all the same. Looked at habitat yesterday for some scraps of countertop so it will be level and the same style. If not exact, its pretty close to a 45 degree angle. Yes, the 10" is a good spot for large flat items, I just keep thinking there is some way to make use of that extra wall space. Will likely will leave it there for now, I'll post some sketches of my ideas and maybe you can see it better. This space is so small I'm trying to think of ways to use every inch. I did see an old cabinet that could be cut to 10-12" deep to put against that wall. Don't know that a counter that narrow would be of any use and you'd have to be sure the doors are shut to open the dishwasher.

Jan Flood
oakridgefarm@gmail.com

On Dec 30, 2015, at 8:42 AM, David Cox dcwired@att.net [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

As I envision it, you would only gain apx. 9" extension outwards on the counter top. Not much bang for the buck. Were you planning on replacing the counter top anyway? If not, that would really make it unfeasible. Any angle other than a 45 would look like a mistake not intended. You could use the extra 10" beside the dishwasher for a pans/cookie sheets cabinet.

On 12/29/2015 10:46 AM, 'oakridgefarm@gmail.com' oakridgefarm@gmail.com [DoIt_Yourself] wrote:

We currently have an in-line kitchen wall. To the left of the sink the counter is 36", below was a 15" drawer set and an 18" bar fridge. I've removed both and added a full-size dishwasher, 24". My intent was to angle the dishwasher and add something to the end of it, in order to increase the counter space. Would be an L shape , with a bit of an angle. I have 36" along the counter, and 33" on the side wall. In theory, it works. I can set it so the angle of the door still leaves enough space to load and unload — the exact dimensions of the rest of the space would determine what we put there - the advantage is it would give me some extra counter space. I allowed for plenty of hose and cord but I seem to be the only one who likes this idea. Currently the dishwasher is set inline, and there is about a 10" open space next to the wall - wasted, not even enough roof to set the toaster in. My husband prefers the dishwasher stay inline and just use an island - I'm good with an island but it would be wonderful to have a little extra counter room for the coffee pot, the keurig, can opener & toaster which have to set on the other side of the kitchen right now.

Any thoughts on the advantages/disadvantages of having the dishwasher on an angle? I know there wouldn't be room for a lot of drawers but we don't have any now. I'm OK with short shelves & baskets/ or any way to get a little extra storage. Would love to have a slide out trash can, but as it is - it's impossible. Lots of wasted space here but can't take it out and start over.

Thanks for any thoughts, sometimes, fresh eyes can see a different solution.
<Mail Attachment.jpeg>

Jan Flood
oakridgefarm@gmail.com

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Posted by: "oakridgefarm@gmail.com" <oakridgefarm@gmail.com>

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Re: [DIY] Re: Cheapo Pine Doors

Pumps I did like you suggested, folding the sandpaper... I went against the grain until the rough edges were gone and then 'scooped' with the sandpaper with the grain. It worked!!

I sanded the entire door, sealed it With a Varathane product and then stained it with Min Wax Early American.

I have some very dark areas and this has often happened on the other menard's cheapo pine unfinished doors. Not all of them. I usually seal pine with laundry softener like the amish do. Used a store bought sealer this time thinking maybe the laundry softner was not uniform. Actually when using laundry softner on pine 1x4's and 1x6's the color uniformity is beautiful. It is only these blasted doors from Menards that I have a problem with. lol

Is it something I did or did not do? I will attach a photo.

Joyce aka Mom aka Nana

On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 1:29 PM, pumps2fix@yahoo.com [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

I would "fold" the piece of sandpaper and use the "edge" for sanding
the groves......Pumps

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Posted by: Joyce O <theoldhen@gmail.com>

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Re: [DIY] Cheapo Pine Doors

thank you Jan

Joyce aka Mom aka Nana

On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 1:20 PM, 'oakridgefarm@gmail.com' oakridgefarm@gmail.com [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

[Attachment(s) from oakridgefarm@gmail.com included below]
My husband has some sanding sticks in his carving supplies, different shaped tips, you can get at woodworkers supply. If the regular sanding blocks are too wide, cut them to size or make your own, wrap some sandpaper around a paint stick, or something that will fit in the groove. Use a brown paper bag the same way for finish and clean out with a toothbrush.

Jan Flood
oakridgefarm@gmail.com

On Dec 30, 2015, at 12:04 PM, Joyce O theoldhen@gmail.com [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

When sanding a prehung mastercraft 6 pane door from Menards, what is the best way to sand the indented or groove area around each panel? I know these doors are pretty crappy but this is the best we can do.

That groove area is pretty nasty.

Joyce aka Mom aka Nana