Cartoon Network

30 August 2014

[DIY] Re: Electrical issues

 


The breaker or fuse service box MUST have the neutral/ground connections bonded together and directly grounded to the outside with a heavy cable directly connected to a ground rod. If the ground chemistry is not very conductive in your area, more than one ground rod, with all of them bonded together may be necessary. This ground (earth) connection bonding both neutral and ground together at the service box must be the only point in the house where neutral and ground are tied together. Neutral must be kept separate in all branch circuits.

If the neutral wire opens in a branch circuit, the current will not necessarily flow to ground. The voltage instead will be equalized across two or more branch circuits of different phases. In other words, if the neutral opens in one 120v circuit that has a heavy current draw, the voltage in an opposite phase circuit may RISE, potentially as high as 240 volts. More typically you might see something like one 120v circuit dropping to 80 volts, with the other rising to 160 volts. I've seen bulbs in 120 v circuits suddenly explode, when, for example, a refrigerator started in another circuit.

I suspect that something like the above is happening with your fan phenomena. Switching on a light in another circuit changes the applied voltage in your fan's circuit. It's a potentially dangerous situation. I'd check all neutral connections at the breaker box. I'd then check all neutral connections at branch outlets and especially in any junction boxes.

By any chance does this trailer/house have aluminum wiring? Aluminum wiring connections oxidize over time causing such problems.
If you can't figure this out soon, call an electrician.

Doug

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Posted by: Douglas <sparks06524@yahoo.com>
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29 August 2014

[DIY] Update on bathroom plug failure

 

I made do for a long time without the use of the outlet. When my neighbor's dad, an electrical engineer, came to visit last weekend, he kindly came and went over the house with his tester. Found the GFI in the garage was shot, PLUS a loose wire in the bathroom. What's more the box itself, when removed, was Very HOT [ although had been out of use for a month or more]. He replaced both the bath outlet and the GFI for under $20. Wonder what this would have cost me had I given in and called a local electrician? Plenty.
 
He said the Hot Box could've easily started a fire in the wall, so really I should have gone ahead and had it fixed instead of fooling around with it so long. At least I now know that the rest of the house is safe also.
 
Also relabeled the breakers, which were done slapdash when the house was built. No wonder I couldn't find which one was connected to what.
 
Glad I didn't try to fix this myself, thinking it was maybe just pull out one and replace it.
 
Carol in FL

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Posted by: "Carol Griffin" <ctg@tampabay.rr.com>
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[DIY] Re: Electrical issues

 

Ron,

All the problems and symptoms you describe point to either a high-resistance or non-existant "neutral" connection.

Every time I have encountered similar problems, as well as a whole bunch of other weird problems, a bad neutral connection was either the entire problem or a main contributor.

In a perfect world, the "neutral" is at the same "earth" potential as the "ground". Modern wiring, following the NEC, ensures this by requiring the neutral to be bonded to the ground at your service entrance, and the neutral is also bonded to the ground at the nearby distribution transformer. Normal residential distribution from the transformer to your service entrance includes two "hot" wires (insulated) and a neutral wire (usually bare).

If the neutral wire is non-continuous, or non-existent, all of your "120" volt current has to pass through the ground to get to the neutral tap on the transformer. This would explain the current flowing at your water-pipe ground. If the neutral is correctly wired, and there are no devices on the line shorted to ground, there should be no current flowing through that water-pipe ground.

Just as a hint, mobile homes often have the "service entrance" on a pole or pedestal away from the structure itself. There will be a meter and a box with the main disconnect (usually circuit breaker), and a cable connecting this "service entrance" with the distribution panel in the trailer. If this is the set-up you have, I would suspect that there is either NO neutral (only two wires), or that one of the connections is bad, between that box on the pole or pedestal and the trailer..

Hope some of this helps.

John Grube

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Posted by: grubemed@yahoo.com
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[DIY] Re(4): ..

 

http://hostingtopreview.com/zhrcpwobm/5662210.php?00=kfmxmkca4533&qowxj==665866 Hey!!! Ann sends you her kindest regards! ______________________ 29.08.2014 10:06:01 as sad and lovely with bright things in it s that im liable to such an oversight led each othеr by our first names reappeared h thе shots were being pump chmelik Werfs last four wills 29.08.2014 10:06:01

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Posted by: Bill Chmelik <chmelik@earthlink.net>
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Re: [DIY] Electrical issues

 

ray kornele: maybe it is because I am from the south, but what is the "coach" you speak of?


On Thursday, August 28, 2014 9:06 PM, "Ray Kornele krazykyngekorny@gmail.com [DoIt_Yourself]" <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


 
My thought is you have no wire return from the coach to the main box, where the coach is plugged in. The original "electrician" relied on earth as a ground. It works, but, is dangerous.


KrazyKyngeKorny (Krazy, not stupid)




On Thu, Aug 28, 2014 at 5:21 PM, Ron Johnson l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 
The trailer we bought, made around 1971, still has electrical problems.  I know there are electricians here and I'm hoping you guys know they whys and wherefores of these situations.




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Posted by: Mike Shoaf <mike.shoaf@yahoo.com>
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Re: [DIY] Electrical issues

 

As you said, having a connection from the water pipe (if metal all the way to the ground) to the neutral bar in the panel is mandatory.  You may have a loose neutral somewhere including at the weatherhead or meter where the power supply connects to your system.  A loose neutral (white) wire will cause the load to go to the ground instead.  It doesn't have to be a wire completely disconnected to have resistance in a connection.



On 8/28/2014 7:21 PM, Ron Johnson l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com [DoIt_Yourself] wrote:
 

The trailer we bought, made around 1971, still has electrical problems.  I know there are electricians here and I'm hoping you guys know they whys and wherefores of these situations.
 
The first has been solved, I just don't know why it works. I was running a ground wire from a pipe to the water pipe coming out of the ground when I got shocked.  When I got to the water pipe, it sparked so I knew there was a real problem (I guess getting shocked did clue me in). It turned out there was no grounding strap from the ground bar to the box.  The problem is solved, but for the life of me, I can't figure out how it changed the wiring to the extent it obviously did.  I know we have to add a grounding strap when we add a new box, but I always thought is was in case of something happened, not because of a constant situation.
 
The other situation is not solved. Someone brought in a blower from a forced air unit as a fan.  It works really well, but it occasionally changes pitch, which means velocity, when we turn a light on and off.  A light NOT on the same circuit.  The problem is either the trailer wiring or the blower motor.  If it's the blower motor, an easy fix would be not to use it.  If it's the trailer wiring  . . .  I'm screwed.  I don't mind rewiring, I would just rather not do it on a trailer.  It's already been painted inside.
 
 
 

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Posted by: David Cox <dcwired@att.net>
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Re: [DIY] Electrical issues

 

My thought is you have no wire return from the coach to the main box, where the coach is plugged in. The original "electrician" relied on earth as a ground. It works, but, is dangerous.


KrazyKyngeKorny (Krazy, not stupid)




On Thu, Aug 28, 2014 at 5:21 PM, Ron Johnson l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

The trailer we bought, made around 1971, still has electrical problems.  I know there are electricians here and I'm hoping you guys know they whys and wherefores of these situations.


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Posted by: Ray Kornele <krazykyngekorny@gmail.com>
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Re: [DIY] RE: Electrical issues

 

Make sure the hot water heater is grounded with 3 wires.. 2 hot, one ground. If not, it will ground through the pipes and you will sure get a *tingle* out of that!

The second issue leaves me clueless.
~~~~

On Aug 28, 2014, at 8:21 PM, Ron Johnson l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com [DoIt_Yourself] wrote:

 

The trailer we bought, made around 1971, still has electrical problems.  I know there are electricians here and I'm hoping you guys know they whys and wherefores of these situations.
 
The first has been solved, I just don't know why it works. I was running a ground wire from a pipe to the water pipe coming out of the ground when I got shocked.  When I got to the water pipe, it sparked so I knew there was a real problem (I guess getting shocked did clue me in). It turned out there was no grounding strap from the ground bar to the box.  The problem is solved, but for the life of me, I can't figure out how it changed the wiring to the extent it obviously did.  I know we have to add a grounding strap when we add a new box, but I always thought is was in case of something happened, not because of a constant situation.
 
The other situation is not solved. Someone brought in a blower from a forced air unit as a fan.  It works really well, but it occasionally changes pitch, which means velocity, when we turn a light on and off.  A light NOT on the same circuit.  The problem is either the trailer wiring or the blower motor.  If it's the blower motor, an easy fix would be not to use it.  If it's the trailer wiring  . . .  I'm screwed.  I don't mind rewiring, I would just rather not do it on a trailer.  It's already been painted inside.
 
 
 


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Posted by: "carmen s." <mom2mini@bellsouth.net>
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[DIY] Electrical issues

 

The trailer we bought, made around 1971, still has electrical problems.  I know there are electricians here and I'm hoping you guys know they whys and wherefores of these situations.
 
The first has been solved, I just don't know why it works. I was running a ground wire from a pipe to the water pipe coming out of the ground when I got shocked.  When I got to the water pipe, it sparked so I knew there was a real problem (I guess getting shocked did clue me in). It turned out there was no grounding strap from the ground bar to the box.  The problem is solved, but for the life of me, I can't figure out how it changed the wiring to the extent it obviously did.  I know we have to add a grounding strap when we add a new box, but I always thought is was in case of something happened, not because of a constant situation.
 
The other situation is not solved. Someone brought in a blower from a forced air unit as a fan.  It works really well, but it occasionally changes pitch, which means velocity, when we turn a light on and off.  A light NOT on the same circuit.  The problem is either the trailer wiring or the blower motor.  If it's the blower motor, an easy fix would be not to use it.  If it's the trailer wiring  . . .  I'm screwed.  I don't mind rewiring, I would just rather not do it on a trailer.  It's already been painted inside.
 
 
 

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Posted by: Ron Johnson <l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com>
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Re: [DIY] NT / Damaged oak table

 

Hi Carmen I am sorry that happend to you. I am sure you are pretty frustrated.  

I bought a used vintage table and the bottoms of 2 legs were pretty rotted. One was missing quite a bit. 1 to 2 inches in a jagged pattern.  I bought Min Wax wood filler. 


I drilled a hole into the bottom of each leg and inserted a long wood screw. 

Next I used a piece of cardboard and folded it to match the rest of the table leg. Used rubber bands to hold it on and filled the entire area thing with the mixed up wood filler. I let it set for a couple of days to make sure it was dried all the way through. It never cracked. Each leg was probably 1 1/2 inches square.

After I took off the cardboard form I sanded it with sandpaper. 

I didnt bother to stain or paint the min was wood filler. 

Good luck on your table. 





Joyce aka Mom aka Nana



On Thu, Aug 28, 2014 at 8:05 AM, 'carmen s.' mom2mini@bellsouth.net [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

I bought an old small oak table from one of the local thrift stores and as they were pushing it into the van, over-stressed a leg and a piece of the wood leg- close to attaching the table top, broke.
The guys hid this fact from me and took the broken piece .. now I am left with a 4 inch chunk of missing wood revealing the supporting large screw showing almost the whole inner threads.

It would have been nice if they had left the broken piece as I could have glued and clamped it all in a neat repair . So now I need to stabilize, repair and add something to give it all needed support.

Small layers of some kind of wood filler, with intermission in-between layers?
Any suggestions for products that might work and application?
carmen


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Posted by: Joyce O <theoldhen@gmail.com>
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28 August 2014

Re: [DIY] NT / Damaged oak table

 

Subject: damaged table leg where it joins table:

 Should have been more specific.. space to be filled-  1/2" deep, 4 " tall,  and 2" wide is the size that is needed to fill.
carmen
~~~~

On Aug 28, 2014, at 9:05 AM, 'carmen s.' mom2mini@bellsouth.net [DoIt_Yourself] wrote:

 

I bought an old small oak table from one of the local thrift stores and as they were pushing it into the van, over-stressed a leg and a piece of the wood leg- close to attaching the table top, broke.
The guys hid this fact from me and took the broken piece .. now I am left with a 4 inch chunk of missing wood revealing the supporting large screw showing almost the whole inner threads.

It would have been nice if they had left the broken piece as I could have glued and clamped it all in a neat repair . So now I need to stabilize, repair and add something to give it all needed support.

Small layers of some kind of wood filler, with intermission in-between layers?
Any suggestions for products that might work and application?
carmen


__._,_.___

Posted by: John and Carmen Stuart <johnandcarmen@bellsouth.net>
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[DIY] NT / Damaged oak table

 

I bought an old small oak table from one of the local thrift stores and as they were pushing it into the van, over-stressed a leg and a piece of the wood leg- close to attaching the table top, broke.
The guys hid this fact from me and took the broken piece .. now I am left with a 4 inch chunk of missing wood revealing the supporting large screw showing almost the whole inner threads.

It would have been nice if they had left the broken piece as I could have glued and clamped it all in a neat repair . So now I need to stabilize, repair and add something to give it all needed support.

Small layers of some kind of wood filler, with intermission in-between layers?
Any suggestions for products that might work and application?
carmen

__._,_.___

Posted by: "carmen s." <mom2mini@bellsouth.net>
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Re: [DIY] Shed didn't pass code

 

Yep, thanks for all the response. I visited the planning and zoning people and they gave me the requirements... you would think that the builders would have picked up on that ..

but all is good and eventually they will come out and add the 2 by 10's and the 2 extra jacks.
I'm getting an education with this project.
carmen
~~~~
On Aug 26, 2014, at 3:51 PM, Mountain Master mountain953346@yahoo.com [DoIt_Yourself] wrote:

 

over spanned means the distance between the supports for
the space between the french door opening ("THE SPAN") is
too long/wide for the size of lumber the connects the two
side supports and "spans" the distance over the opening
for the french doors...

Means you have to put in a larger beam. or shrink the opening

look up on google the size of your beam, 4x8 2x10. 2x12  etc
and see what the permissble spans are...you may be able to
add another beam to the exisiting beam if it will fit of course
check with your county as you are doing

Rich

 
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Forever bonded We Band of Brothers
 
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Ad Inexplorata; De oppresso liber


From: "'carmen s.' mom2mini@bellsouth.net [DoIt_Yourself]" <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com>
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2014 12:20 PM
Subject: [DIY] Shed didn't pass code

 
The headers over both French doors did not pass our local code for the french doors.
can someone give me a link to show a picture of what we need?

The reason given was the headers were "over-spaned" ... what does that mean?
I'm going to the court house to get some direction on this.
carmen
~~~





carmen stuart
Brightwood Aviary
Dawsonville, Ga.
770  889-0353

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Posted by: "carmen s." <mom2mini@bellsouth.net>
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