|
31 January 2016
Unexpected sign-in attempt
[DIY] Re: Painting with wind
In "brush" painting the security of the ladder is important......Dig its
bottom feet into the ground, use a ladder stabilizer at the top or
even secure it with some rope....You should be able to handle
18-20 mph gusts at heights up to about 20 feet with a "safe" ladder......
As an olde spray painter, 20mph was a "no-no" for me.....Pumps
__._,_.___
Posted by: pumps2fix@yahoo.com
| Reply via web post | • | Reply to sender | • | Reply to group | • | Start a New Topic | • | Messages in this topic (2) |
Please send decorating questions to Interior Motives List - to subscribe send an email to: Interior_Motives-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
.
__,_._,___
[DIY] Painting with wind
Does anyone know a rule of thumb for the wind speed when it's NOT advisable to paint outside? The closest thing I found was "Never climb on ladders with winds gusting about 25 km/h" which is just over 18mph I need to paint the facade of the house were trying to sell and it's kind of windy right now.
 | This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com |
__._,_.___
Posted by: Ron Johnson <l0c0l0b0@hotmail.com>
| Reply via web post | • | Reply to sender | • | Reply to group | • | Start a New Topic | • | Messages in this topic (1) |
Please send decorating questions to Interior Motives List - to subscribe send an email to: Interior_Motives-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
.
__,_._,___
29 January 2016
Unexpected sign-in attempt
|
16 January 2016
[DIY] Re: Water softener discharge
I also thought of contamination if the back flow valve did not kick in in time. The softener does back wash under 50-60 pound pressure from the well tank. I've also been looking for a valve that would install near the softeners tank and drain off leftover water in the line after the the back flow valve and softeners backwash cycle ends. I was thinking in that way no contaminated, if any, water would touch the backwash water. I can't seem to locate that type of valve. I Googled unloader valve but that's for pressure washers.
I could run a line to my laundry sink upstairs about 40 ft away and let it drain into that. That would be an easy air gap. Problem there is family members soak clothes in there and that spells disaster if the softener starts to run.
I check around to see what others around here do and also check with septic and plumbers. I've heard the term air gap for dishwashers so I'll also see how they operate.
Thanks to everyone for the input.
Gene
---In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, <THenne1713@...> wrote :
I have the same concerns as Mike, and also think that a pressure connection/ gravity drain to a drain without an air gap is a code violation and probably not smart. My daughter's family just went through issues with an outdoor gas pack condensate drain connected to septic (Guessing without an air gap?) backed up into the condensate pan after the septic filled during rainy season. This resulted in nasty odors and heat shutdown for several days until they could get servicemen out to clean the A/c drain system and pump the septic.
My concern for you would be more that after a drain clog, it would contaminate the water softener/ potable water and KILL YOU (and others?)...
(Mike said) <<might want to check with a septic tank company-will the discharge from your water softener mess up your septic tank? is the discharge pressurized? if so, you may want to connect to the drain line thru an upward facing "Y" fitting so that the fall of the waste water will be forced down: that is, one side of the Y connects to the existing drain and your water softener drain would connect to the other side of the Y. when connecting a condensate drain (from and air conditioning coil for example) I am required to leave an air gap at my connection to avoid any back-up into my drain line;any back-up from the out going drain would spill out thru the air gap I suppose>>
My concern for you would be more that after a drain clog, it would contaminate the water softener/ potable water and KILL YOU (and others?)...
(Mike said) <<might want to check with a septic tank company-will the discharge from your water softener mess up your septic tank? is the discharge pressurized? if so, you may want to connect to the drain line thru an upward facing "Y" fitting so that the fall of the waste water will be forced down: that is, one side of the Y connects to the existing drain and your water softener drain would connect to the other side of the Y. when connecting a condensate drain (from and air conditioning coil for example) I am required to leave an air gap at my connection to avoid any back-up into my drain line;any back-up from the out going drain would spill out thru the air gap I suppose>>
Terry
thenne1713@...
thenne1713@...
__._,_.___
Posted by: multiuseguy@yahoo.com
| Reply via web post | • | Reply to sender | • | Reply to group | • | Start a New Topic | • | Messages in this topic (5) |
Please send decorating questions to Interior Motives List - to subscribe send an email to: Interior_Motives-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
.
__,_._,___
15 January 2016
[DIY] Re: Water softener discharge
I have the same concerns as Mike, and also think that a pressure connection/ gravity drain to a drain without an air gap is a code violation and probably not smart. My daughter's family just went through issues with an outdoor gas pack condensate drain connected to septic (Guessing without an air gap?) backed up into the condensate pan after the septic filled during rainy season. This resulted in nasty odors and heat shutdown for several days until they could get servicemen out to clean the A/c drain system and pump the septic.
My concern for you would be more that after a drain clog, it would contaminate the water softener/ potable water and KILL YOU (and others?)...
(Mike said) <<might want to check with a septic tank company-will the discharge from your water softener mess up your septic tank? is the discharge pressurized? if so, you may want to connect to the drain line thru an upward facing "Y" fitting so that the fall of the waste water will be forced down: that is, one side of the Y connects to the existing drain and your water softener drain would connect to the other side of the Y. when connecting a condensate drain (from and air conditioning coil for example) I am required to leave an air gap at my connection to avoid any back-up into my drain line;any back-up from the out going drain would spill out thru the air gap I suppose>>
My concern for you would be more that after a drain clog, it would contaminate the water softener/ potable water and KILL YOU (and others?)...
(Mike said) <<might want to check with a septic tank company-will the discharge from your water softener mess up your septic tank? is the discharge pressurized? if so, you may want to connect to the drain line thru an upward facing "Y" fitting so that the fall of the waste water will be forced down: that is, one side of the Y connects to the existing drain and your water softener drain would connect to the other side of the Y. when connecting a condensate drain (from and air conditioning coil for example) I am required to leave an air gap at my connection to avoid any back-up into my drain line;any back-up from the out going drain would spill out thru the air gap I suppose>>
Terry
thenne1713@aol.com
thenne1713@aol.com
__._,_.___
Posted by: Terry <thenne1713@aol.com>
| Reply via web post | • | Reply to sender | • | Reply to group | • | Start a New Topic | • | Messages in this topic (4) |
Please send decorating questions to Interior Motives List - to subscribe send an email to: Interior_Motives-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
.
__,_._,___
Re: [DIY] Water softener discharge
I have been discharging my water softener into my septic tank for 30 years without problems.
Lee
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 14, 2016, at 8:28 PM, Mike Shoaf mike.shoaf@yahoo.com [DoIt_Yourself] <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
might want to check with a septic tank company-will the discharge from your water softener mess up your septic tank? is the discharge pressurized? if so, you may want to connect to the drain line thru an upward facing "Y" fitting so that the fall of the waste water will be forced down: that is, one side of the Y connects to the existing drain and your water softener drain would connect to the other side of the Y. when connecting a condensate drain (from and air conditioning coil for example) I am required to leave an air gap at my connection to avoid any back-up into my drain line;any back-up from the out going drain would spill out thru the air gap I supposeOn Thursday, January 14, 2016 5:46 PM, "multiuseguy@yahoo.com [DoIt_Yourself]" <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Right now my water softener, located in the basement, discharges into my sump pit then is pumped out to the yard. I want to drain it into the waste line that runs from my kitchen sink to my septic inlet pipe located in the basement.
My idea is to drill and tap, just above horizontal center, the side of the 1 1/2 PCV sink drain line and screw in a threaded to ribbed tubing transition plastic pipe. The point of insertion would be about 6 ft. from kitchen trap and 30 ft. from septic inlet at basement wall. Total 1/2" softener tubing run would be about 25 ft.
My concern is contamination from the kitchen sink so I'm wondering if a inline spring loaded check valve would take care of the that problem. I assume that the check valve would not close until the water pressure was relieved between the softeners drain shutoff valve and the spring tension on the check valve.
Comments and alternative idea's welcome,
Thanks, Gene
__._,_.___
Posted by: Lee Griffith <ldgriff@earthlink.net>
| Reply via web post | • | Reply to sender | • | Reply to group | • | Start a New Topic | • | Messages in this topic (3) |
Please send decorating questions to Interior Motives List - to subscribe send an email to: Interior_Motives-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
.
__,_._,___
Re: [DIY] Water softener discharge
might want to check with a septic tank company-will the discharge from your water softener mess up your septic tank? is the discharge pressurized? if so, you may want to connect to the drain line thru an upward facing "Y" fitting so that the fall of the waste water will be forced down: that is, one side of the Y connects to the existing drain and your water softener drain would connect to the other side of the Y. when connecting a condensate drain (from and air conditioning coil for example) I am required to leave an air gap at my connection to avoid any back-up into my drain line;any back-up from the out going drain would spill out thru the air gap I suppose
On Thursday, January 14, 2016 5:46 PM, "multiuseguy@yahoo.com [DoIt_Yourself]" <DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Right now my water softener, located in the basement, discharges into my sump pit then is pumped out to the yard. I want to drain it into the waste line that runs from my kitchen sink to my septic inlet pipe located in the basement.
My idea is to drill and tap, just above horizontal center, the side of the 1 1/2 PCV sink drain line and screw in a threaded to ribbed tubing transition plastic pipe. The point of insertion would be about 6 ft. from kitchen trap and 30 ft. from septic inlet at basement wall. Total 1/2" softener tubing run would be about 25 ft.
My concern is contamination from the kitchen sink so I'm wondering if a inline spring loaded check valve would take care of the that problem. I assume that the check valve would not close until the water pressure was relieved between the softeners drain shutoff valve and the spring tension on the check valve.
Comments and alternative idea's welcome,
Thanks, Gene
My idea is to drill and tap, just above horizontal center, the side of the 1 1/2 PCV sink drain line and screw in a threaded to ribbed tubing transition plastic pipe. The point of insertion would be about 6 ft. from kitchen trap and 30 ft. from septic inlet at basement wall. Total 1/2" softener tubing run would be about 25 ft.
My concern is contamination from the kitchen sink so I'm wondering if a inline spring loaded check valve would take care of the that problem. I assume that the check valve would not close until the water pressure was relieved between the softeners drain shutoff valve and the spring tension on the check valve.
Comments and alternative idea's welcome,
Thanks, Gene
__._,_.___
Posted by: Mike Shoaf <mike.shoaf@yahoo.com>
| Reply via web post | • | Reply to sender | • | Reply to group | • | Start a New Topic | • | Messages in this topic (2) |
Please send decorating questions to Interior Motives List - to subscribe send an email to: Interior_Motives-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
.
__,_._,___
[DIY] Water softener discharge
Right now my water softener, located in the basement, discharges into my sump pit then is pumped out to the yard. I want to drain it into the waste line that runs from my kitchen sink to my septic inlet pipe located in the basement.
My idea is to drill and tap, just above horizontal center, the side of the 1 1/2 PCV sink drain line and screw in a threaded to ribbed tubing transition plastic pipe. The point of insertion would be about 6 ft. from kitchen trap and 30 ft. from septic inlet at basement wall. Total 1/2" softener tubing run would be about 25 ft.
My concern is contamination from the kitchen sink so I'm wondering if a inline spring loaded check valve would take care of the that problem. I assume that the check valve would not close until the water pressure was relieved between the softeners drain shutoff valve and the spring tension on the check valve.
Comments and alternative idea's welcome,
Thanks, Gene
__._,_.___
Posted by: multiuseguy@yahoo.com
| Reply via web post | • | Reply to sender | • | Reply to group | • | Start a New Topic | • | Messages in this topic (1) |
Please send decorating questions to Interior Motives List - to subscribe send an email to: Interior_Motives-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
.
__,_._,___
14 January 2016
Unexpected sign-in attempt
|
10 January 2016
Re: [DIY] Re: Lawnmower motor
Thanks for the review on this product. I had no experience using it myself.
On 1/9/2016 7:25 PM, Ray Kornele krazykyngekorny@gmail.com [DoIt_Yourself] wrote:
At one time I used that additive in an old car made to burn leaded gasoline. It plugged the fuel filter in about three weeks.
KrazyKyngeKorny (Krazy, not stupid)
__._,_.___
Posted by: David Cox <dcwired@att.net>
| Reply via web post | • | Reply to sender | • | Reply to group | • | Start a New Topic | • | Messages in this topic (10) |
Please send decorating questions to Interior Motives List - to subscribe send an email to: Interior_Motives-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
.
__,_._,___
Re: [DIY] Re: Lawnmower motor
At one time I used that additive in an old car made to burn leaded gasoline. It plugged the fuel filter in about three weeks.
KrazyKyngeKorny (Krazy, not stupid)
__._,_.___
Posted by: Ray Kornele <krazykyngekorny@gmail.com>
| Reply via web post | • | Reply to sender | • | Reply to group | • | Start a New Topic | • | Messages in this topic (9) |
Please send decorating questions to Interior Motives List - to subscribe send an email to: Interior_Motives-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
.
__,_._,___
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)