What is not clear here is where is the pipe first exposed to
freezing temps? If the basement is kept warm enough that
it never freezes, then a simple through the wall frost proof
valve will do what you need. The valve stem inside the pipe is
very long so the water is actually shut off inside or on the
warm side of the wall.
If however the basement does get cold enough to freeze, then a shut off
valve (and drain line) in a warmer location is needed.
It would help to know your location and how cold/severe your winters
are. Where I live we mostly get rain and few cold snaps, the crawl
space is warm enough that freezing is not a problem (though pipe
insulation still helps). Frost line is roughly 6-12 inches deep,
so I do have frost proof yard hydrants and I typically bury the valve
deeper than 12 inches, if for no other reason than to make the
hydrant more stable.
Also, with the frost proof, through wall faucets, you need to remember
to disconnect the hose and shut the valve. Leaving a hose on, full of
water, with a shutoff/sprayer on the end of the hose can allow enough
ice to force its way back into a "frost proof" valve and damage the
valve.
The local hardware store or county planning department might have
information on typical severity of freezing winter temps and how
much precaution you need to take in your area.
dave
On 11/6/13, 3:12 PM, grapjebe wrote:
>
>
> The outdoor water outlet/faucet freezes and I cannot use it. The
> pipe comes from the basement, thru the basement wall and then runs outdoors.
> How can this be fixed? I heard something about making another
> faucet/valve before it goes thru the wall and then let the water drain
> from the outside faucet when not in use?
> Spouse and I are beginner DIYers...
> oh and... any advise about getting rid of the ads when you try to post
> via group website?
>
--
Dave Uebele (daveu@sptddog.com)
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