Breaks like this usually happen because years ago, someone opened up the valve all the way and added a little oomph. In time, this "rusted open" and, if you had been able to close it, it would most likely have leaked. Never turn hose bibs on all the way - go all the way then back a half turn: this prevents seizing up from happening.
Yes, you should replace the hose bibb. In this case, it sounds like they are old and I would replace both hot and cold at the same time. If you don't do it now, you'll have to do it when you really can't afford the time nor the money. I know ... it happens to me a lot.
But ...
You can turn off the hot water only by shutting off the valve at the water heater, releasing the pressure at a sink, then you remove the hose with only a little water spilling out. You really don't need any tape or goop on the hose end as long as you have a washer - most new hoses come with a washer for both ends tie-wrapped to it.
If and when you replace the hose bibbs, it's a good idea to use tape AND the Teflon goop. I used to use one or the other and found out that using both reduced any leaks when I needed to have the fixture in a certain position. Of couse, you can change the hose bibb to a gate valve - it's a little more expensive but it's easier and faster to shut off when there is an emergency.
Another thing ... when you replace a water heater, it's a good idea to have a valve at both the incoming cold and the outgoing hot lines. That way when you later have to replace or work on the heater, you can shut off the hot side and not drain it from the house, leaving that much less water to need to fill the lines. I know that sounds like I'm pinching pennies, but in reality, that save time - you don't have to empty the lines, and refill them afterwards, which might break off some rust in galvanized pipes plugging up aerators or, if big enough, the valves themselves. This is more important with larger houses and multi-unit complexes using the same heater.
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
From: subprong@gmail.com
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 01:52:33 -0600
Subject: [DIY] Washer hose leaking
I know the correct thing to do would be to replace the whole spigot along with the hose. ...but if for now I replace the hose without replacing the spigot, do you foresee any problems?
Hose replacement. Do I need to add teflon tape or putty to the spigot as well as the washer inlet connection. If so, what kind for hot water? I think I have the tape with yellow case. Should I look for a specific type of durable hose? This will be for hot water and the washing machine is not in a control temp environment.
Spigot replacement. Should I replace that, do I need to use any special tape or putty on that? I'm a little weary on replacing it. If the turn wheel was seized up then I wonder if the whole bib will be.
Thanks for any help.
Yes, you should replace the hose bibb. In this case, it sounds like they are old and I would replace both hot and cold at the same time. If you don't do it now, you'll have to do it when you really can't afford the time nor the money. I know ... it happens to me a lot.
But ...
You can turn off the hot water only by shutting off the valve at the water heater, releasing the pressure at a sink, then you remove the hose with only a little water spilling out. You really don't need any tape or goop on the hose end as long as you have a washer - most new hoses come with a washer for both ends tie-wrapped to it.
If and when you replace the hose bibbs, it's a good idea to use tape AND the Teflon goop. I used to use one or the other and found out that using both reduced any leaks when I needed to have the fixture in a certain position. Of couse, you can change the hose bibb to a gate valve - it's a little more expensive but it's easier and faster to shut off when there is an emergency.
Another thing ... when you replace a water heater, it's a good idea to have a valve at both the incoming cold and the outgoing hot lines. That way when you later have to replace or work on the heater, you can shut off the hot side and not drain it from the house, leaving that much less water to need to fill the lines. I know that sounds like I'm pinching pennies, but in reality, that save time - you don't have to empty the lines, and refill them afterwards, which might break off some rust in galvanized pipes plugging up aerators or, if big enough, the valves themselves. This is more important with larger houses and multi-unit complexes using the same heater.
To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
From: subprong@gmail.com
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 01:52:33 -0600
Subject: [DIY] Washer hose leaking
Hi all. The washing machine hose has sprung a leak in the rubber part. The hot water line runs to a hose bib, then connects to this hose and then the hose connects to the inlet on the washer.
I tried to turn off the spigot to cut the water off to stop the leak. It did not turn. I tried a little extra oomph with a wrench and the spigot turn wheel broke right off.
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