Standard polishing practice is to work from course grit to
finer grit, depending on how rough the initial surface might be.
Depending on time and commitment you could start with sandpaper
or a sanding block. Try looking at the paint/finishing area of an
auto parts store, they will have finer grits designed
for work on metal.
If you have a bench grinder, they can be adapted for
buffing. There are different types of wheels and compounds.
See what is available and find a setup for both
"cutting" (more aggressive buffing), and "polish",
which is done second, and is a finer grit.
There are different compounds for ferrous metal,
precious metal, plastics, etc. So read the suggested
items to buff with each compound and wheel.
Typically the "cutting" buffing wheel will have more stitching
to make it a firmer surface, while the "polish" wheel has less
stitching.
Both are typically layers of cotton sewn together, to hold
the buffing compound.
Always hold your work below the center line of the buffing
wheel, so that when the wheel grabs your work, it throws it to the
ground, not into your body.
I'm not sure I'd recommend buffing wheels in a hand-held drill.
If you go the harbor freight route for purchase, it should not
be too expensive.
You also investigate chemical rust removal, like naval jelly.
Most of those include phosphoric acid, which should eat the
rust, but will leave a grayish surface finish.
Might also try to see if there is a custom knife maker
in your area, they probably already have the tools and knowledge
to polish these items.
Hope that helps.
dave
On 01/11/2013 03:32 PM, Steve Wilson wrote:
>
>
> Electrolysis is supposed to work to get rust off of steel. Look it up,
> there are several webpages people have made to show the results and the
> method. Smoothing the pitting and polishing them is a whole different
> problem if the rust has eaten at the blades. If there isn't much pitting
> then a buffing wheel and polishing compound should polish them pretty
> well. It would probably take a lot of elbow grease. Try not to scratch
> them much, any scratching will have to be smoothed out.
> Steve
>
> On 1/11/2013 3:45 AM, greatyoga wrote:
>>
>> I have some ice skates with Sheffield steel blades. They were rusty. I
>> tried a wire brush attachment on a drill and it got some of it off but
>> not all. Does anyone know how to buff it to look like new?
>>
>> Thanks
>> GB
>>
--
Dave Uebele (daveu@sptddog.com)
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