You don't need to add a dedicated circuit. Just try not to have
much else on that circuit, esp things that take a lotta "juice."
An outlet that has not been used much or was cheap can be a hot
spot as the resistance between the receptacle and plug can get vvv
hot. These can be 50¢. Here is a place I might get a "commercial
grade" or heavy duty receptacle, for mebe $2. Turn the breaker off. TEST with a lamp to be sure, and swap it out. I do this where
refridges & toaster ovens are.
There are special appliance extension cords.
Many areas have tired elec rates. The first 100 Kw may be 10¢ ea Kw.
I get into the 4th tier and approach 40¢ ea Kw. If you are there,
and add a heater... (Unlikely in a small home???) 16 hrs a day, but "on" 1/2 the time, is like 8 hrs. 8x25¢=$4 a day... $100+ /mo.
I have a few beautiful extension cords that someone bought, cheap.
What you cannot see is the internal metal contacts. With modern
CHEAP plugs, the prongs are no longer helpful springy contacts, but hard shiny flat contrivances. This puts the demand to conform to it for a good connection, all upon the female receptacle of the extension cord. Mfr's are making THESE cheaply, also, nowadays.
At the slightest nudge, of my extension cord connection, the
computer it powers turns off. NOT good for it, though this one
is a special laptop-type server that will accept this abuse.
It's still maddening.
So I don't care if the cord is an adequate gauge for your heater.
The receptacle end can be made poorly. An appliance cord will
have just ONE receptacle & it will be quality. Or a commercial wall receptacle, likewise, can be better. You CAN opt for a "washing machine" receptacle, which has just 1 receptacle. Overkill. I do
this for a refridge location.
BillSF9c
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