Bill-
I learned a **LOT** from your response..thank you so much..
I was mot aware of shimming to level..the toilet does rock!
(back and forth that is! hahahha)...and the one flange bolt
slot is rusted through...so I was not aware of fixit "kit"
u mentioned to repair bolt hole...
I will do all of the above and become an...ahhhh....excuse me..
happy crapper again! LOL
Thanks, Peace and Joy this Christmas to you and your family,
Rich
*The retired green beret*
--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, Angels <cy.collins@...> wrote:
>
> Great info! You're full of all kinds of helpful information! Thanks! It seems I have water damage in the bathroom, kitchen, and laundry room!!!! Going to be a busy winter! Thanks again for the info.
>
> --- On Wed, 12/12/12, OOWONBS@... <OOWONBS@...> wrote:
>
>
> From: OOWONBS@... <OOWONBS@...>
> Subject: Re: [DIY] Spam and my consistently leaking toilet!! help
> To: DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Wednesday, December 12, 2012, 9:42 PM
>
>
>
> Â
>
>
>
> >Thanks...I have put in new and remodel toilets without leaking but this one is cursed I think!! The floor flange is corroded (black iron pipe I think) and the bolts do not hold it down and it rocks.. so I think you hit the nail on the head here...The floor flange is in a concrete slab so there is little chance for replacement unless I get a jackhammer and open the entire floor area up.. ugh and double ugh.. I will try the extra wax ring.. did not think of that..
>
> peace and back to DYI fun and $aving$. ---------------
>
> More to this... The 4" blk cast iron was the defacto standard.
> Low flow toilets are pushing us toward 3" for toilets, and
> Blk ABS plastic. But that's another story... Back to you...
>
> Sometimes the cement floor itself,
> 1) was never flat around the cast iron drain,
> 2) has actually started to bulge from various chemical
> actions over the decades.
>
> The extra wax ring may help.
> ALSO ask for a wedge made for this.
> (Don't make a wooden shim! It will rot in 10-30 yrs.)
>
> These fit under the perimeter of the toilet after you have
> it squished down, and for which a newbie and most pros
> SOMEtimes ought to use a level across the toilet, where
> the seat rests. Cuz you rock this too much while squishing
> down and you end up with a wax ring not sealing.
>
> Got it perfectly level now and "seated" to the cement?
> NOW shove a wedge shim under the high spots where
> the toilet does not yet rest on the cement slab. These
> are dirt cheap lil plastic things, and usually 1-2 are all
> that's needed. You cud want 3-4. Cut off any extra after
> triple checking level and stuff. Now bolt 'er down.
> (An alternative is grinding down the cement slab, around
> the drain, but there's some technique, etc.)
>
> Oh, yeah... backup... Your flange was crap. It is broken?
> Sometimes 1 hole breaks and it's hard to make one
> of the toilet bolts stay in place. There's an adaptor
> that's almost as thin as sheet metal. Or 3 thicknesses...
> Less than 1/8th inch, let's say. It bolts to the existing
> flange, which usually has extra holes OR the adaptor
> has long curved washers that bridge the broken hole.
> This essentially fixes a bad hole in a cast iron flange.
> VERY common.
>
> There are also new flange-fittings that sorta self seal
> and use an o-ring. Good luick on finding a guy to sell
> you the right one. IF YOU TRY, take a GOOD pic
> of your flange with you. Descriptions, suck. Pics, help.
>
> Ok. NOW you can silicon the toilet down, after you
> "test it" by a cpl days use. It is arduous but I use 2 wk
> blue painter's tape. I tape the floor & toilet and when
> I apply the caulk, then finger fit it in place, check it all,
> THEN remove the tape and do that last spit-smoothed
> fit, I get perfect results. Placing the tape well, is a real
> PITA.
>
> It's an awkward place to use a caulk gun. I'm
> not a pro w caulk and I generally HATE the work a
> pro does. I don't have to pay anyone's college tuition.
> I want perfect work. It takes me all the time it takes me.
>
> One thing - The caulking can begin to "skim-over" in as
> little as 15 minutes, so THAT is your goal once you
> start applying the caulk. I use kitchen & bathroom
> microbial resistant silicon caulk. Clear, white, or "bisque
> / almond." Lil tube $4-5. Big tube, -or- $7 & a gun $2.
>
> Plug the leftover caulk tube with a BIG nail and tape it
> with not duct or masking but plastic tape and you might
> get to use the rest within 6 mos-1yr. (I use red 30 day
> stucco tape (*w/o fibers.*) Geeze this is great general-use
> tape!!! Nasua & 3M if I recall, sell this. $7, big roll!)
>
> Did I miss anything ...?
> BillSF9c
>
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