I'm waiting for the last rain before I peal the roof off my house.
Then I'm in for some carpentry, removing any wood rot I find, clean up and nail fresh 1x6 planks. Then its ready for foam.
I also want to peal off the 73yr old siding so I can spray foam and weatherize the walls as well.
I've talked to one local contractor and a couple of suppliers who sell pre-packaged tanks for the DIY warriors.
Here on the west coast of California, the climate weather just doesn't call for serious insulation as much as mid-west or east coast.
So there aren't a lot of foam installers and frankly they don't seem very sophisticated.
None of the insulation videos I watched on youtube were filmed by contractors from California.
Anyway, once I get busy with this project I'll post my experience here.
--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "mountain953346" wrote:
>
> Thanks very much...Kate wonders if you ever used this
> as an installer or had it done to your house/building?
>
> Rich and Kate
>
>
> --- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "Strat" wrote:
> >
> > "mountain953346" wrote:> HI Strat..thanks for the great analysis and
> > ideas you wrote..appreciate very much...I like all your options!
> > > Question though on the the closed cell foam sheathing..
> > > Is it walkable on?YES
> > > I wonder about the vertical strength if applied over the exisiting
> > roofThat is "Deflection
> >
> TF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&authuser=0&ei=yqUSUYmmKc_QqAGCsoGwAQ\
> > &biw=1440&bih=815&sei=zaUSUdfOI8XVrQHz54HgDA> -limits"
> > > Wont it be pretty compressible? NO, you can walk on it and unless
> > you weigh 1,000 lbs, your shoes won't leave an imprint.
> > Read More . . . Two ways to answer you, a simplified common sense
> > approach, and the engineering approach which will involve lots of
> > figures and math that's beyond the scope of this forum. But I'll
> > include links to a couple of web resources for those who are inclined to
> > read through the fine detailed analysis on their own.
> > If you are confident to walk on your current roof, then you'll be happy
> > to know that after spraying top of your deck with 2 to 3" of "ccSPF",
> > the overall deflection limit is going to be 1.5 to 3 times (depends on
> > the thickness of foam) that of your current raw lumber deck.
> > If you want exact figures, research deflection-limit for your 1x8 wood
> > roof, identify specie of wood, it'll take some work if you're
> > interested). I couldn't find data on 1x8 planks as structural material
> > because today's building codes don't allow anything less than OSB boards
> > nailed to 2x4" studs.Anyway, whatever you come up with for your 1x8
> > deck, multiply it by a factor of 1.5 to 3 and that's how much stronger
> > your roof will be after sparying ccSPF.
> > Here are a couple of great pages to review:
> >
> > * Benefits of ccSPF
> > :
> > * SPF for in commercial
> > buildings
> > * Refs: Deflection strength.
> >
> >
> > Hope this helps.BTW. that first link is a real good resource because it
> > covers ALL benefits of ccSPF, it covers vapor barrier, condensation,
> > structural and insulation benefits.
> > -S-
> > > > --- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "Strat" wrote:
> > > >
> > >
> > > > (c)
> > > > Another option is applying another layer or two of rigid closed cell
> > foam sheathing over existing roof, taping and staggering seams. This
> > yields a very good result and very doable by DIY warriors.
> > > > This is my most desirable and cost effective option.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > The other insulation materials like loose cellulose or fiberglass
> > batting are not relevant to low pitch/flat roofs because there isn't
> > adequate head-room to pack enough insulating material in to make an
> > impact on R value.
> > > >
> > > > http://energy.gov/energysaver/articles/insulation-materials
> > > >
> > > > Good luck and we'll compare notes comes next Fall.
> > > > -S-
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "mountain953346" wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > We have 2000 sq ft roof that is composed of 1x8's over
> > > > > 4x8 on 8ft centers, then asphalt roll and tar covering the 1x8's.
> > > > >
> > > > > That's it. There is no insulation and we are loosing most
> > > > > of AC and heat through the roof.(It is a low-slope "flat" roof)
> > > > >
> > > > > We have computed the costs for doing a new inside the house
> > drywall
> > > > > ceiling dropped down 3 1/2" with r-15 fiberglass insulation
> > > > > at about $1.25 a sq ft. minus labor..having done drywall
> > > > > before we are confident to do the work although it seems
> > > > > a lot more intensive than adding new roof...??
> > > > >
> > > > > Add roof approach is to add 2x4s on 16in centers on the roof
> > > > > and put insulation there, then cover with 3/8" CDX and asphalt
> > > > > roll roofing over that which is now on the existing roof
> > > > > (maybe 25 year old roof now so could use a replacement)...
> > > > > essentially making a new roof....we also have done DIY
> > > > > in this area. Costs of materials about the same.
> > > > >
> > > > > It seems to me that the roof approach is way less labor
> > > > > intensive than beaming the inside ceiling, juggling
> > > > > even lightweight drywall, insulating and screwing and taping
> > > > > and mudding the inside ceiling...
> > > > >
> > > > > I would be very interested in the DIY'ers thoughts on the
> > > > > approaches to this project...or a new approach we have not
> > > > > thought of to solve this upward massive energy drain. In the
> > > > > summer the ceiling inside is a virtual radiator. We live
> > > > > in San Diego away from coast 15 miles so it gets hot but
> > > > > does cool off at night (semi-desert climate).
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks in advance for any and all thoughts and ideas.
> > > > >
> > > > > Rich and Kate.
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
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