we shall see after the rain.. our new AC/Roof unit works
great..we went with a Goodman 3ton unit instead of
heat pump (Sorry Dale!!)...it replaces existing old unit
You don't owe me any apologizes, I'm no great fan of heat pumps unless geothermal is in the offering.
We are also west coast..San DIego 16 miles or so from
coast
Our first estimate came in at $6000 for r 12 this is
for 1400 sq ft roof srayed and end capped with drip
edging....Contractors say two 55 gal drums, 1 type A
and one type B then mixed at spray nozzle..
waiting for more estimates...read your links and think
this is very very DIY...kit comes with 8 nozzles
and detail precautions and instructions...
1 to 1 so for $4000 we got a very good deal ..not low quote
and not high..6500 high and 3200 low...
will put some pics in photo area...
Rich and Kate
--- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "Strat" wrote:
>
> I'm waiting for the last rain before I peal the roof off my house.
> Then I'm in for some carpentry, removing any wood rot I find, clean up and nail fresh 1x6 planks. Then its ready for foam.
> I also want to peal off the 73yr old siding so I can spray foam and weatherize the walls as well.
>
> I've talked to one local contractor and a couple of suppliers who sell pre-packaged tanks for the DIY warriors.
>
> Here on the west coast of California, the climate weather just doesn't call for serious insulation as much as mid-west or east coast.
> So there aren't a lot of foam installers and frankly they don't seem very sophisticated.
>
> None of the insulation videos I watched on youtube were filmed by contractors from California.
>
> Anyway, once I get busy with this project I'll post my experience here.
>
>
> --- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "mountain953346" wrote:
> >
> > Thanks very much...Kate wonders if you ever used this
> > as an installer or had it done to your house/building?
> >
> > Rich and Kate
> >
> >
> > --- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "Strat" wrote:
> > >
> > > "mountain953346" wrote:> HI Strat..thanks for the great analysis and
> > > ideas you wrote..appreciate very much...I like all your options!
> > > > Question though on the the closed cell foam sheathing..
> > > > Is it walkable on?YES
> > > > I wonder about the vertical strength if applied over the exisiting
> > > roofThat is "Deflection
> > >
> > TF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&authuser=0&ei=yqUSUYmmKc_QqAGCsoGwAQ\
> > > &biw=1440&bih=815&sei=zaUSUdfOI8XVrQHz54HgDA> -limits"
> > > > Wont it be pretty compressible? NO, you can walk on it and unless
> > > you weigh 1,000 lbs, your shoes won't leave an imprint.
> > > Read More . . . Two ways to answer you, a simplified common sense
> > > approach, and the engineering approach which will involve lots of
> > > figures and math that's beyond the scope of this forum. But I'll
> > > include links to a couple of web resources for those who are inclined to
> > > read through the fine detailed analysis on their own.
> > > If you are confident to walk on your current roof, then you'll be happy
> > > to know that after spraying top of your deck with 2 to 3" of "ccSPF",
> > > the overall deflection limit is going to be 1.5 to 3 times (depends on
> > > the thickness of foam) that of your current raw lumber deck.
> > > If you want exact figures, research deflection-limit for your 1x8 wood
> > > roof, identify specie of wood, it'll take some work if you're
> > > interested). I couldn't find data on 1x8 planks as structural material
> > > because today's building codes don't allow anything less than OSB boards
> > > nailed to 2x4" studs.Anyway, whatever you come up with for your 1x8
> > > deck, multiply it by a factor of 1.5 to 3 and that's how much stronger
> > > your roof will be after sparying ccSPF.
> > > Here are a couple of great pages to review:
> > >
> > > * Benefits of ccSPF
> > > :
> > > * SPF for in commercial
> > > buildings
> > > * Refs: Deflection strength.
> > >
> > >
> > > Hope this helps.BTW. that first link is a real good resource because it
> > > covers ALL benefits of ccSPF, it covers vapor barrier, condensation,
> > > structural and insulation benefits.
> > > -S-
> > > > > --- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "Strat" wrote:
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > > (c)
> > > > > Another option is applying another layer or two of rigid closed cell
> > > foam sheathing over existing roof, taping and staggering seams. This
> > > yields a very good result and very doable by DIY warriors.
> > > > > This is my most desirable and cost effective option.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > The other insulation materials like loose cellulose or fiberglass
> > > batting are not relevant to low pitch/flat roofs because there isn't
> > > adequate head-room to pack enough insulating material in to make an
> > > impact on R value.
> > > > >
> > > > > http://energy.gov/energysaver/articles/insulation-materials
> > > > >
> > > > > Good luck and we'll compare notes comes next Fall.
> > > > > -S-
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In DoIt_Yourself@yahoogroups.com, "mountain953346" wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > We have 2000 sq ft roof that is composed of 1x8's over
> > > > > > 4x8 on 8ft centers, then asphalt roll and tar covering the 1x8's.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > That's it. There is no insulation and we are loosing most
> > > > > > of AC and heat through the roof.(It is a low-slope "flat" roof)
> > > > > >
> > > > > > We have computed the costs for doing a new inside the house
> > > drywall
> > > > > > ceiling dropped down 3 1/2" with r-15 fiberglass insulation
> > > > > > at about $1.25 a sq ft. minus labor..having done drywall
> > > > > > before we are confident to do the work although it seems
> > > > > > a lot more intensive than adding new roof...??
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Add roof approach is to add 2x4s on 16in centers on the roof
> > > > > > and put insulation there, then cover with 3/8" CDX and asphalt
> > > > > > roll roofing over that which is now on the existing roof
> > > > > > (maybe 25 year old roof now so could use a replacement)...
> > > > > > essentially making a new roof....we also have done DIY
> > > > > > in this area. Costs of materials about the same.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > It seems to me that the roof approach is way less labor
> > > > > > intensive than beaming the inside ceiling, juggling
> > > > > > even lightweight drywall, insulating and screwing and taping
> > > > > > and mudding the inside ceiling...
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I would be very interested in the DIY'ers thoughts on the
> > > > > > approaches to this project...or a new approach we have not
> > > > > > thought of to solve this upward massive energy drain. In the
> > > > > > summer the ceiling inside is a virtual radiator. We live
> > > > > > in San Diego away from coast 15 miles so it gets hot but
> > > > > > does cool off at night (semi-desert climate).
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks in advance for any and all thoughts and ideas.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Rich and Kate.
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
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